screaminz

Thanks for responding back Brian but keep in mind it's my $600 you have and I have paid shipping more than once as well for you to get this right. I do thank you for spending the extra time on my ecu but that sort of thing is expected while running a business so if it's pat on the back you want then here it is. Like I said in my last post I believe the 04 reflash should not be offered until you are for sure about your R&D work to avoid problems down the road. As you have seen there are many others that are unsatisfied with the flash as well so please don't act as if it's just me.. I will have the car redynoed next week and a A/F reading done as well so please do keep reading this thread. The situation with the shipping makes no sense because everytime I have shipped it there overnight and you have shipped it back it has worked fine until now. Also what have you done as you say to bend over backwards for me? Is it not enough that I was able to prove there was somethig wrong with my A/F readings? I'm sure you people never have to reflash anyone elses ecu because something went wrong on your behalf. I have heard enough excuses and blames for this situation but the true test will be when your company handles the reflash on the turbonetics single turbo coming out and when the motors start blowing because you people could not make the ecu's rich enough the truth will be known.
So now I'm without my car again for the weekend and I can only hope my car runs halfway decent with the ecu comes back in for the 4th time... I do apologise to the people on this board if you take offense to this matter but I simply have had enough..
screaminz

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

I have the TS 03 flash, not the 04 flash

I dynoed my car again after getting my ecu back from TS for the 2nd time. I need to send it back again cause now I'm lean in the 18's or higher until 3500 then it starts getting insanely rich.

I admit, this costs me about $110-120 for each send back and redyno, but it's the only option I see working because after finding out how the stock ECU has 3 mappings how would a piggyback every keep my A/F perfect without always resetting the ECU to keep in the aggressive timing mode?

I've been getting my ECU back extremely fast and on time from TS - like clockwork

I'd recomend getting another car of some sorts that you can borrow from someone while your car is out of commission. Lot less stressful. I couldn't imagine paying for a rental all the time - that'd be like $200 for each sendback.

They'll eventually get it right, but it takes some time. Just need some patience and understanding that all they have to work with is your dynocharts 1 at a time

johanna1

iTrader: (1)

Thats why I love living near Altered Atmosphere. Since they have all the stuff there, I can just go there and get them to reflash it until its right on the button. It would cheaper for you to just ride up to maryland from flordia and get them to do it, rather then keep sending it back. I am probably going with the F-CON anyways, so far there has been no trouble with it.

THX723

iTrader: (3)

Folks ... the bottom of the line is without a *known* good wideband AF print out for feedback there is NO tuning possible.

If you don't have a pre-cat wideband O2 and do not plan on buying one, then I would suggest finding someone with a wideband equipped car. Take him to the dyno with you so a baseline for the particular dyno shop's AF sampling characteristic can be assessed. The reality is tail-pipe AF sampling vary wildly depending on how their sniffer probe is mounted and implemented. Measurements range anyhwere from zero to as much as 1.5 pts. higher. Most people will be more than happy to oblige if you offer to pay for their dyno run(s) and they in return get to find out how much power their car makes.

Z BOY

iTrader: (41)

I just bot some resonated pipes. do you recommend installing a bung on one of them to get more accurate a/f readings? What would be the cheapest way to have a bung installed, ie, where would i look in the phone book, welding shops? Since the pipes don't have cats, where would the bung go on the pipe, before or after the resonator?
My dyno shop uses the tailpipe sniffer; if i have the extra bung, do most dyno shops have an adapter to take a/f readings from the bung?
This is a valuable thread. I never knew about dyno filters before or asking when they were last cleaned/replaced.
It seems like quantifying and improving the benefit of one's mods, up to this point in time, is fraught with landmines which only increase in number when you have more people touching your car...installer, dynoer, flasher...wouldn't it be nice to have one-stop shopping for all of these?

screaminz

I understand completely about having a more accurate A/F done put based on that how many shops actually offer to check your A/F by going into the pre-cats? Also I have always read that there was not that much of a difference between pre-cat wideband O2 and a tail-pipe sniffer. Alot of car are tuned based on a tail pipe sniffer including one of my friends 350z with a vortech SC. As much time and money I have spent on this so far I do plan on seeing it through just to see who is right and who is wrong. I do plan on posting the next dyno readings as well and if Iam wrong about this whole ordeal it will be known but if I'm not I will request my money back...
yammy2

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

The best solution will always be the WB O2 sensor precat, but you can many times get by with a tailpipe sniffer if the Dyno operator knows his equipment. If you question the operator and he seems a little unsure, then I would be a little unsure of the validity of the numbers. I would never recommend an FI car use a tailpipe sniffer. You are asking for trouble if you do.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

again I totally disagree with the tailpipe being a no no for FI use also, assuming again the dyno sniffer is working. I've tuned a few of my own modded FI cars with a dyno sniffer.

But, I think we are basically beating a dead horse

zzzya

iTrader: (2)

Would you recommend running an aftermarket FI setup without a wideband O2 sensor? If not then why tune the car with a tailpipe sniffer instead of the installed wideband O2?? It is a strong recommendation, not a must.