350z UTEC comments from TurboXS
#62
Well that was it!!! Took me longer to find the damn connector that to fix it. There is absolutely no hesitation up top; it pulls strong right up to rev limit. No blinking CEL either.
Now I can get back to tuning as I’m little rich at 6000-6600.
Thanks Jermaine!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now I can get back to tuning as I’m little rich at 6000-6600.
Thanks Jermaine!!!!!!!!!!!!
#65
wanna know something funny, i have had mine grounded since day one, cause its the same ground as when you ground it for the nitrous solenoid (spare solenoid)
maybe thats why i havent had any problems...
i told a few people i thought it was a grounding issue.
maybe thats why i havent had any problems...
i told a few people i thought it was a grounding issue.
#68
well actually, when i first installed mine, i had it hanging down and it wasnt touching anything for a couple weeks, then i grounded it and hooked it all up properly, i dont think that it is grounded through the bracket that holds it up. i think that the ecu HAS to have another internal ground. it ran fine the whole time though.
#69
Originally Posted by 350Z_LMS
well done Jermaine...so just pull out black wire out of pin1 and wire it to the bolt? great
@JG 350Z: was it that easy? red stays in place?
@JG 350Z: was it that easy? red stays in place?
well actually, when i first installed mine, i had it hanging down and it wasnt touching anything for a couple weeks, then i grounded it and hooked it all up properly, i dont think that it is grounded through the bracket that holds it up. i think that the ecu HAS to have another internal ground. it ran fine the whole time though.
Jermanie~
#72
Originally Posted by BlackTuner
The problem is that the ground on the injector circuit is electrically “noisy” and get “noisier” as engine load increases. As you make more power you are creating a larger combustion event. In some cases, it will get so noisy that it will cause some of the injectors to fire irregularly resulting in power loss and slow revving.
https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/192507-utec-brand-new-not-working.html
Or was this a reflash fix? I'm set on buying one of these, just curious what the issues are I might run into!
-E
Last edited by -EL; 06-23-2006 at 11:44 AM.
#73
Originally Posted by Kiamo
So you wire it up with the top ECU mounting braket bolt? Just strip off some of the wire and pinch it between the braket and the nut? Or is there another preferred location?
Thanks,
#74
Originally Posted by BlackTuner
I just dropped my car off to have our new exhaust installed. I will post pic's of the place I used when it comes back.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#75
Originally Posted by Kiamo
Cool, thanks. I called this morning about getting a new plug, any idea when it might get here? Just curious... I suck at being patient.
-E
#76
I grounded the wire to the metal bracket behind the dash, the one that the cup holder bolts on to. There are two bolts there, I figured I needed something better than the ECU mounting bracket as it didn't seem to provide enough ground.
#77
Originally Posted by -EL
If you're well and truely impatient, and you have a decent electronics supply store nearby, you can buy the molex connector and pins, and make one yourself. Also nice if you need/want a custom length on the wire.
-E
-E
#78
Originally Posted by Kiamo
I tried RadioShack to no luck... they had molex connectors, but not the right size.
-E
#79
I have to take the UTEC down in order to check mine. Do you need to take the negative battery terminal off before doing that and do you need to disconnect the harness connector at the bottom?
Looks like the bolt in the back is hard to get to!
Looks like the bolt in the back is hard to get to!
#80
Originally Posted by 35ounces
I have to take the UTEC down in order to check mine. Do you need to take the negative battery terminal off before doing that and do you need to disconnect the harness connector at the bottom?
Looks like the bolt in the back is hard to get to!
Looks like the bolt in the back is hard to get to!
Oh yeah here is a picture of the ground point I used.