35ounces

iTrader: (5)

Glad to hear it is as simple fix. Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

JG 350Z

iTrader: (5)

Well that was it!!! Took me longer to find the damn connector that to fix it. There is absolutely no hesitation up top; it pulls strong right up to rev limit. No blinking CEL either.

Now I can get back to tuning as I’m little rich at 6000-6600.

Thanks Jermaine!!!!!!!!!!!!

Havok_RLS2

iTrader: (9)

So what do we do with the little red wire?

35ounces

iTrader: (5)

its for a solenoid, so just wrap it up if your not using it.

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

wanna know something funny, i have had mine grounded since day one, cause its the same ground as when you ground it for the nitrous solenoid (spare solenoid)



maybe thats why i havent had any problems...


i told a few people i thought it was a grounding issue.

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for research into this issue, and for posting the fix quickly.

Great Service.

350Z_LMS

well done Jermaine...so just pull out black wire out of pin1 and wire it to the bolt? great
@JG 350Z: was it that easy? red stays in place?

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

well actually, when i first installed mine, i had it hanging down and it wasnt touching anything for a couple weeks, then i grounded it and hooked it all up properly, i dont think that it is grounded through the bracket that holds it up. i think that the ecu HAS to have another internal ground. it ran fine the whole time though.

BlackTuner

iTrader: (2)

Just run the black wire to a ground, just that simple.

The UTEC is grounded through the engine harness and the dash mount. It turns out that the engine side grounds are not well seated. This is likely why grounding kits make a big difference on some cars and others don't notice it at all.

Jermanie~

Kiamo

So you wire it up with the top ECU mounting braket bolt? Just strip off some of the wire and pinch it between the braket and the nut? Or is there another preferred location?

ktown z

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Jermaine I hope this works and I appreciate your help.

-EL

Does this have anything to do with the issue a few others are reporting where the UTEC seems to make the car go into limp mode, slowly revving to about 2k and then won't rev any higher?

https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/192507-utec-brand-new-not-working.html

Or was this a reflash fix? I'm set on buying one of these, just curious what the issues are I might run into!

-E

BlackTuner

iTrader: (2)

I just dropped my car off to have our new exhaust installed. I will post pic's of the place I used when it comes back.

Thanks,

Kiamo

Cool, thanks. I called this morning about getting a new plug, any idea when it might get here? Just curious... I suck at being patient.

-EL

If you're well and truely impatient, and you have a decent electronics supply store nearby, you can buy the molex connector and pins, and make one yourself. Also nice if you need/want a custom length on the wire.

-E

JG 350Z

iTrader: (5)

I grounded the wire to the metal bracket behind the dash, the one that the cup holder bolts on to. There are two bolts there, I figured I needed something better than the ECU mounting bracket as it didn't seem to provide enough ground.

Kiamo

I tried RadioShack to no luck... they had molex connectors, but not the right size.

-EL

Yea, you'll need to find a real electronics place for those. Radio Crap won't carry them.

-E

35ounces

iTrader: (5)

I have to take the UTEC down in order to check mine. Do you need to take the negative battery terminal off before doing that and do you need to disconnect the harness connector at the bottom?
Looks like the bolt in the back is hard to get to!

BlackTuner

iTrader: (2)

A general rule of thumb is to disconnect the battery before doing any electrical work on a vehicle.

Oh yeah here is a picture of the ground point I used.