He pulled 2 degrees from stock throughout the entire rpm range, not just my nitrous window. My Map 1 is my NA map, and Map 3 is my nitrous map. I switch it over to my n20 map whenever I need to use it and I switch it on the fly, aka, push the clutch in so the rpms drop below 1500 and change the map. I would pull some timing just to be safe, even if spraying water/meth; I know people use it so they dont have to retard timing as much but I wouldnt feel comfortable without pulling at least a few degress when you hit it.

So far mine has held up through 5 hard driven bottles.

 

Thanks. Yea i very well may have to still pull some timing. We'll see when the car comes out of storage.

I don't understand why your pulling timing outside the Window Switch RPM's though. Your killing your power even when off the spray on that map?

 

Its *maybe* 5-10rwhp that Im losing. I wanted it just for the added security. I didnt want my n20 solenoid to get stuck open and spray till redline and have my timing advanced 10-15 degrees of what it should be, 2* retarded, when I spray. That would be bad news

edit: plus pulling 2* from stock isnt that big of a deal and I cant really tell a difference

 

EDIT: Nevermind

 

So I see there is nothing new here.

 

I just changed my nitrous system over to a dual stage set-up and had Shawn Church tune using Osiris.
60 shot at 3200 RPM, additional 85 shot at 4500 RPM
380 HP and 382 ft# torque
Waht a beast!

 

Sweet..

 

So with that setup does the 60 shot continue spraying when the 85 shot kicks in? I've never run dual stage before.

 

exactly...
The 85 shot is still breaking the wheels loose to much , I'm going to try toning it down to a 75 shot and see what happens.

 

What kinda wheel/tires are you running? Where are your jets located in the intake? Your shot sounds pretty intense.

 

They're goodyear eagles (I think) 245-45 18 on 350Z track rims (the light ones that look like rays). The small shot is 6" back from the TB, the large shot is about 14 " back from the TB.
INTENSE isn't the word, this is just crazy.

 

dam i want to run that exact set up. do you spray when you race from a stop or do you hold off till atleast 2nd gear? could you send me a picture of your set up please?

 

I run it right off the line but I shift out of first early (about 5000 RPM) 'cause if I hit 2nd on the juice I loose traction (poor shift technique 6MT). There's not much to see but I'll try to take some pics this weekend and post them up.

 

You need some fatter rubber on the back. I've got 10.5/285.. Lets see how my traction compares to yours when the shot goes in. I'll be running a 100shot.

 

There's a lot involved, humidity, temperature, road surface... it's hard to do a comparison without both cars side by side. I left these tires on because the car handles great in the twisties and all I had to add were Hotchkis sways.

 

got my car tuned a few months ago by uprev and they did that thing that keeps my throttle body open 100% all the way to redline, and set my afr's to 12.8. New dyno is showing that i drop down to as rich as 12.3. Now for some reason it feels as if my car pulls better with only about 3/4 throttle as compared to WOT.... could it be that i am getting too much air in and maybe nissan made the TB close about 20% up top for a reason??? even though shouldnt the tune have been able to correct the "bogging" with the extra air????


wheres the street tuner already?!?!

 

do you have any data logs with more info? ecu may be pulling timing?

 

have you added any mods since the Uprev tune?
Was the first tune actually done at Uprev on a dyno, or was it one of the mail-in tunes?

 

no other mods since uprev tune. yes it was done at uprev in austin texas on a dyno. I dont have any data logs because they didnt give me a cypher when i got tuned...

 

Put mine up for sale if anyone is looking at picking it up for a tad cheaper.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine/348994-uprev-osiris.html