As usual, you make good points, Raj. The conflict between controlling your EMS increases when you add a RevUp engine to the equation. It becomes more difficult to control things with the Haltech, so you have to add Osiris.

For FI guys, it is probably worth using a stand alone like a Haltech and Osiris together. The problem is finding a shop that is smart enough to tune a Haltech and Osiris together. Tuning with a Haltech or Osiris by themselves is difficult... It is hard to find a knowledgeable tuner for either one, let alone both of them together. I suspect there are only two Tuners in the United States good enough to do a really good job tuning Osiris and a Haltech together.

For naturally aspirated VQ RevUp engines, I think the answer is to simplify things a bit and use the one EMS that can control the entire car - Osiris. Granted, the Haltech has incredible software and its ability to save data logging internally is an absolute plus. Unfortunately it can't control things controlled by the drive by wire. In some respects, you are fortunate not to have a RevUp engine. It makes things a real pain in the rear.


-jb

 

Osiris does not have launch control on the Base model without cruise control. In the future I will try and add it on. The reason I bought the base was I did not want traction control. I know how to drive . If you were to use a EMS along with Osiris you would still need to control the cams and the drive by wire map with osiris. You also would have to adjust the base fuel schedule inside the nissan ecu to keep it happy. Its simple once you get used to using Osiris. I got into the Uprev beta when I had a utec. I called and emailed uprev about reflashing my ecu to keep the stupid thing happy with the utec.

The Revup up engine has a lot of benefits with the exhaust cams. Mainly top end power. My car pulls all the way too 7500 rpms with the S7 cams. I can feel the power drop off after that. But it will still pull all the way to 8000 rpms. On the dyno the power didn't drop off at 7k rpms, the limiter made the power drop off.

JB with the cams you have, your car should pull all the way too 8k rpms, once you get the cams tuned. Ill get my laptop out later tonight and pull up a map of my cams if you want to try it out. Basically you have to retard the exhaust cam after 6400 rpms and Retard the intake cam. Add advance in the midrange, on the intake cam. SLow the transition of when the intake cam starts to retard. I wish the c8r cams had been out when I built my engine.

I bet with the cams tuned and your higher compression you should run in the 12s with no problem.

 

lmfao..keep telling urself u bought a base because it doesnt have trac. control...lol.....dude u can turn it off..my touring is ten times nicer than a base..dont even compare on the interior and features..i automatically turn the trac. control off everytime i start the car its second nature to me now takes 1 second

 

ohhhhh

 

haha you are like little kid

 

Why don't you do some reading you can never turn it all the way without lighting up the dash. Every single warning light will come on, along with stability control. Why did I need a higher end model for a limited slip and cruise control? Bought a limited slip out of a wrecked z for 250$. I don't need " extra features " for a sports car. If I wanted a luxury car I would of bought something nicer than a Z.

 

Sorry, I forget that some of the Z's do not have cruise control. I actually have a G, so I'm used to all of them having CC.

I chose the parts in this motor with plans to turn the engine 8,000 RPM. Indeed, it will turn over 8,000, but there's currently no point in it. It stops making power at about 6500 with the Cosworth plenum.

I originally thought the same thing about the C8R cams. I'm not giving up on them, but if I had it to do over again right now, I might choose something a bit smaller.

I'd love to look at your Osiris ROM file. I'm curious to see what the difference is between our cam timing.

Hopefully. G's are a lot heavier than Z's.