mgs1849

This has been by far the most informative thread on tuning vq35de ecu that I have come accross. You guys are doing a great deal of good to someone like me by sharing your knowledge. I just spent the last 2 days reading this whle thread from start to finish over and over again to make sure I didn't miss anything. I have an 03 g35 on which i actually built and installed my own version of an STS t3/t4 turbo kit. Tuning this thing has been the biggest issue and I've already gone through 2 tuners one with a cobb, and the most recent 2nd with the osiris. Both had ok outcomes for the WOT, but not very good in the midrange. So now i have the osiris tuner and I'm trying to use the existing rom I have from the dyno and improve on it. If you guys are interested i'd be happy to post for screen shots. Im set at 6psi right now and all i changed was the target AFR's in the 2k-3500 rpm ranges and it seems to hve gotten much better. Id like to give you guys a detailed list of my upgrades fuel/air and show the rom i have and have you guys cmment on how good/ bad u think it is. Respond if its something that interests you guys to see. Ill be living on this thread it feels like.
Id also like to know how to go about scaling the larger injector the right way, latency, pulsewidth, etc... And if i can use that tool with my car since its an 03 it doesn't come stock with wb O2's. I do have an lc-1 innovate which mayb compatible with osiris, i'd have to try it. Hope to hear from you guys soon.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

I'm all for this thread having as many folks' maps, info about their logs, etc as possible. It's here for us to share knowledge and learn. Now that I'm changing jobs and won't be traveling and working 60-90 hour weeks anymore, I'm ready to jump back into my tuning again.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

You can still scale the injectors with an '03 ECU. Let us know which injectors you're using. If they are DW injectors it's simple, the latencies are well known. If you have some other brand you'll need a spec sheet or oscilloscope to test them yourselves.

Pretty sure the latest ROM Editor can use the data from your LC-1. So your next task is getting that hooked up to your laptop so you can log your ECU and A/F in the same logfile.

mgs1849

Thats great news, ok heres my list of goodies on my car,
03 g35 6mt coupe:
-t3/t4 rear mount turbo
-600cc DW Injectors
-LC-1 Wideband O2
-JWT FMU (3.7:1 In-tank fuel regulator)
-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
-Upver Osiris Tuner
-NGK Iridium spark plugs, Heat level 6 (1 stage colder then stock)
-Intercooler (fan-cooled) with a pre-cooler pipe)

Thats all the relevant stuff i can think of, this is as of now a lil over a year old prodject which is starting to look good after a whole bunch of small problems being worked out one at a time. I had the car tuned on the dyno by an anonymous place which I wont mention if you guys dont mind, since ill be sharing the info, plus I dont want to have bad nor good things being said about people based on my info.

The tune (rom) the car drives on now is from a dyno tune with me just making a lil tweek at the target afr table. Once tuned, the car ran very well at wot, but in mid throttle range it was running lean. By that i mean, for example, in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th gears, at half throttle anywhere from 2500rpm and up i was seeing full boost 5-6psi, but the Wideband 02 read 14-15afr and car was feeling very sluggish and sometimes i even heared crackling noise which would go away as soon as id put the pedal to the floor and afr's would drop. Once i saw the target afr table, i saw that it was set to 14.7 at low to mid load areas of those rmps, which i lowered to high 13's and now the car runs a lil rich (10-11 afrs) at those same areas and even full throttle its below 11afr which is weird cause i didnt change any numbers at higher loads. I haven't touched the timing since i'm not sure its good or bad, but the car feels much stronger in mid throttle range now and feels like it got better then worse since my changes were made.

I would like to build my own rom from scratch at some point when I feel comfortable, but for now perfecting this one it my priority. The compensation table doesn't looks like it was reset to all 100's and the numbers on it are all between 87 - 94, ill post pics and u'll see what i mean. So thats my story, i'll try posting all my rom info now and again I appreciate your guys help more then you can know. Im not sure how I'll fit the whole MAF map, ill prolly have multiple pics of the map spiting it into 1-3 screens. So have a look and dont be shy to speak your mind lol.

mgs1849

more coming...

mgs1849

The troble code dissabled image shows a single DTC code that I had come up because theres a small warm start stalling issue that i have that trips this code, i would also like to discuss this with you guys and see if we can resolve it together. If theres other tables that you want to see, let me know which ones and ill gladly post them. Cant wait to hear your thoughts.

Vince@R/TTuning

iTrader: (7)

Not sure if you said that the last Osiris tune was from a shop but I hope it wasnt. From what ya listed half the values dont seem right and the other half def arent right. The air fuel target table isnt scaled real nice and the fuel comp table should be set closer to 100.

I think the biggest issue is that the high det ignition table you attached actually has higher timing values then your main timing table...and thats not good at all.

Not sure where everything stands with that ROM you got and if it was a shop that performed the tune but I hope it wasnt a Pro tuner....

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Your entire tune is terrible, wrong in so many ways. Like Vince said the timing tables were done backwards...among other things that don't make sense.

I wouldn't continue driving it if I were you, that crackle sound is detonation which will likely end up with a bent rod or hole in your block.

On a side note I'd ditch the FMU -- the 255 walbro and 600cc's should be enough to handle your kit. The FMU will just make tuning alot harder.

mgs1849

it was a shop that did the tune, and on the dyno, and i had a feeling it wasn't done right which is why I'm attempting to resolve it myself. The crackling doesn't happen anymore since i richened the target afrs, and believe it or not the car doesn't feel half bad now, but im seeing 10:1 afrs, at all times between 0-6psi. I guess the next order of business would be, to see what my next step is. Id like to make my own rom from scratch if its not terribly hard, and I could supply logs for info. Ima get a log file made with this rom and post it just to give you guys an idea of what the cars doing, just let me know what parameters i should include. Ill unplug the fmu if its an issue, its not difficult at all. What should I be setting my k value and injector setpoints to now since you guys know what i have?

mgs1849

I think that I am a prime example of why this thread is so necessary. These people talk the talk, take our money, and don't take any pride in what they do. The dyno power results he showed me raised a red flag in my head that something had to be wrong. The car only put out 270hp and 280lb tq at 5-6psi which is pathetic. The only time the afrs did what they were supposed to was when the gas pedal was to the floor. Anything aside from full throttle was 15afr regardless of the boost or no boost condition. And all the tuner had to say to was that my wideband wasn't reading correctly even though when he hooked his wideband up, both read same numbers. I don't want to get into an argument with these people because i'm not as knowledgeable as i wish i was. If I can learn the proper way of tuning my car myself and have this thread show others how as well, I feel that we can accomplish exactly what this thread was intended to do. I really appreciate the support from you guys by the way.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Basically you'll want to re-tune from scratch. Don't use any part of that existing tune.

The uprev manual has quite a bit of info in it on how and where to start. I suggest getting a fresh stock uprev rom and start with the basics... idle, free revving, ect ect then work your way into tuning the higher loads once you are familiar with things. I would also recommend removing the FMU before you get started -- it was designed for the stock injectors, not to be used with your 600's. It shouldn't be needed for <10psi and it's going to make mid-throttle tuning difficult. Just leaving it disconnected will hinder the flow.

mgs1849

That's the thing, the manual does a good job identifying what everything is for, but doesn't instruct what changes to make. For instance, I'm not sure how to figure out the appropriate K value, the injector latency, what the timing should be vs what it is now. I mean i can try plugging numbers in, but i have no idea how to know if what i did is right or wrong. Am I correct in assuming that my K value should be around 16,500? I would really appreciate some specific info that i could plug in. I already started a new rom where i made all the compensation numbers 100, but as far as everything else i'm a lil lost in the sence of what the right set point should look like. Pretty much, i'm not sure how much to adjust by and what to look for when adjusting. Same goes for the MAF table. Anything and everything that you guys can share is greatly appreciated. Thanks

djamps

iTrader: (1)

It took some trial and error but I got plenty of info from uprev manual to get me started. If you want people to give you numbers to plug in (other than statics like injector latency) you probably shouldn't be attempting this yourself. No two cars are alike so just plugging in some value and running with it is a big no-no.

Page 23 of the manual -- it said to 'find' your K. In otherwords, adjust it until it with Cipher (live tuning) until it idles ~14.7.. The only change I would make is start with the PMAS MAF installed... I found when I changed my stock one out everything went to **** and I ended up starting over anyways. Keep in mind when live tuning in Cipher, nothing is saved to the ROM. Before you exit Cipher, save the tuning data to a file, then import it into your ROM file in ROM editor and reflash. If you don't do this after making changes with Cipher's live tuning, you'll lose the changes as soon as you change maps or disconnect the battery.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I'll also post up some of my maps, but I don't think they will be overly useful if our base fuel pressures are different. I know mine is high, so plugging my values in is going to cause your engine to lean out badly, most likely.

mgs1849

i understand what you mean, and I have a general idea of what i'll need to do, can you give me the injector latency and w/e other injector settings you can? This way i can get started. Ohh and do i have to have the other maf, or will my stock maf be able to handle 5-6 psi. I was told it would be enough since im not going crazy with the boost. And every time i try to make adjustment in cipher, when i got to drive the car, the gas pedal looses control of the throttle body. I can press the peday all the way to the floor and i wont rev at all. If i shut the car off and start again it comes back until i try putting the car in gear. Its weird why it does that, but ive just been using rom editor to make live tuning adjustments. The issue doesnt occur with rom editor. But yea, if you can provide the injector info for me that would be great. Thanks

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I'll post some screenshots tomorrow (cable is not with me an rom editor won't start without it)

ZA_350Z

I am extremely new to this and have read quite a bit. I send in my first log for an eTune to UpRev and also decided to post the analysis data here.

Anything that anyone can see on this?

djamps

iTrader: (1)

^^ You're missing the A/F corrections data in the logs (hence the 0.00 for corrections). Doesn't look half bad assuming you're N/A, 12.3-12.7 at WOT is right about where you want to be. Not sure if you'll get any real gains from an E-tune, but you'll 'perceive' a difference with the Uprev throttle map and benefit from the multiple maps.

mgs1849

so I spent a few hrs trying to use that tool to dial in my maf, and i'm kinda lost. Seems like the car does different things at same voltage. I was just sitting in my drive way revving my engine trying to get the afrs stable but no such luck, heres the log file if anyone wants to look at it, the injector latency is same as before, min injector pulse width changed from 2.46 to 1.54, and k value down from about 18600 to 16450. Thats the first log file. The second log file labeled "latest log" is the original map with richened target table, min inj. pw at 1.54.
I'm impatiently waiting for those screen shots from djamps lol. Any feedback is welcome.

mgs1849

here they are