With F/I tuning you have to start from scratch in every respect. Stock/tuned base map means nothing -- you/he saved approx. $300 on the license but that's it. Like others said I doubt he's going to spend timing needed to fix it without paying him more, assuming he even knows how to fix it. I've seen tuners put out the same pig rich F/I tunes for years until they started focusing on part throttle and startup trims. Some tuners figure it out on their own, others need enough complaints and/or someone (e.g. Uprev) to show them how to do it right.

 

The tuner had a canned tuned base map from GTM to work with that ran pig rich for safety. This is what I ran before getting dyno tuned. He told me that he had to pull a lot of fuel out, and I could tell because my gas mileage was sucking! I can say the car does pull way harder than before, except for the boost leak that I have to fix. I'm gonna get a leak test Wednesday, and then retune when I get the extra 60 horses that I'm missing. Thanks for all of your input.

 

^^^ Good Luck, I cant imagine there are too many Pro Tuners in Hawaii. If you run out of options and are interested in any E tuning I'm sure we can help you out.

 

stock timing on my HR. What a mess! at least compared to the map posted in this thread. Whats a "safe" value to start at on my WOT column (and then slowly advance with my knock ears)

 

What PSI are you running? Also I never tuned an HR so I am not sure if it's any different.. For stock compression I'd start with the entire map above 2krpm to 48 or 49 and go up from there. Also put everything except the 1st column on the target map to 11.7 at least initially until you've got your fuel schedule figured out in terms of where boost starts. You better get your fuel trims dialed in perfectly before you start increasing timing -- E.G. make sure you're ~11.7 and at full boost you're cursor is moving at least 80% across the map.

 

negative PSI! lol. yea, the cursor was already reaching 80% across, and I dialed my AFRs with the MAF scaling feature just as you have described.

Im not gonna go crazy with timing advance yet, I just want to smooth things out like my AFR's. ill still triple check my AFRs before I dive into this

 

I have a uprev flash tune which was 300$ and I assume covers the license. What is the most cost effective to upgrade to tuner?

Also, is there a point where you need to bump to a full standalone, as far as power goes?

 

Most cost effective if you're patient:
1)Remove flash from your car
2) sell your cable w/ license on Private Marketplace and wait for a fair offer
3) Keep an eye out for an UpRev Tuner version on Private Marketplace and wait for them to accept an attractive price

If you want a reasonably fast option that is reasonable cost:
1) Contact an authorized UpReve reseller on our Vendor Marketplace and request a quote on upgrading your current license to Tuner

 

No cable. I just sent in my ECU and they did a flash. Is a cipher cable any different from any other obdii to usb cable? Have one of those...

 

Cipher cable is completely different.

 

Figured... normal obdii cables aren't going to take into account the CAN lines.

 

it's more of an issue of uprev software only works with the uprev cable. obd2 info is can based.

 

I can sell you a cable with tuner enabled and would work with your already flashed ECU. PM me if you are interested.

 

So apparently the latest ROM editor has new startup tables that aim to combat the large injector/warmstart issues. I'd be curious to hear from others if this helps any. I know I spent alot of time tweaking my startups and it's still not perfect.

 

PM'd you on Tuesday. Haven't heard back

 

Hey sorry i haven't been back for a lil while, had some stuff going on, djamps, i tried making a rom based on ur rom that you posted and made everything identical as u made, and when I flashed the ecu with that rom, the can wouldn't even idle. Not sure why that is but the car wouldn't run or drive. I did learn a few things from just seeing what you did with your map, which i implemented to my currect map and it made the car run much better, i fixed the timing tables as well, i log about 17 degrees BTDC at WOT. I'll post some screen shots soon of what I have ended up with. I had the warm start issue as well, but it seems to have gone away, well at least it doesn't stall out anymore. Not sure what I did, but i know i raised the idle to 800 at the start up enrichment table, and start up timing table i made the two warmest timing values 0, and when I lowered the minimum inj latency value from 2.4 to 1.54 it seemed to have helped a lot as well. My car runs well now with afr's around 10.5 at wot which i know is a bit rich but its a working progress at this point. I have a slightly adjusted target fuel table from this one where im seeing 11.9 afrs even 12.0 around 4000rpms and it it doesn't feel much different. Heres the main issue that im having that bothers me. When im coasting or keeping the rmp at certain areas, the afrs are more or less good. But duing the rev up period, or shift times the afrs drop down to like 10:1 area. Im not sure what that is causing by. Like i said im kinda trying to have this current map get close to where i want it, and it seems like I'm close judging by the way the car runs. Ill post those screenshots tomorrow with a log file and mayb even try to get a video up on youtube of the wideband and gauge cluster. Comment what ur thoughts are.

 

Hey Spent, sorry for the delay. PMed ya back this morn.

Thanks, Vince


Also mgs1849, we offer E tuning for guys in your situation. we can get a good base for you and get it trimmed in pretty close, so that when you start making your adjustments your a lil closer and can see changes. Essentially getting you a good map that you can trim in yourself and help you learn the system a lil better. Let me know.

Thanks, Vince

 

thanks, for ur offer, what do you charge for that, and what would you need from me as far as a log file? this is my daily driver so i really want a tune that is clean at any throttle position, vs just a full throttle tune. Let me know how confident you are about getting me an etune that'll be able to do that. thanks

 

Hmm, any way, with a tuner version of Osiris, to make the tire pressure light stay off when using non-TPMS wheels?

 

No. Even the dealer can't fix that.