I dunno who "everybody" is but for an N/A motor you are defintely not running "WAY lean." You are well into the 13's when you get on the throttle.. sure you are in the 14's but that's @ ~4000rpm or lower..or when the motor is not really working that hard..

check out this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....highlight=dyno

--mike

 

So is anyone else concerned about the potential for damage when you install it incorrectly and try to run the car? Like shown here.

 

Thanks for posting that link. It was a very informative read!

-Chris

 

So have you checked the A/F with a wideband to see what it's at? DynoJet A/F meters aren't the most accurate things in the world sometimes, all it takes is someone to run leaded fuel or Nitrous with it to drastically affect the readings. I find it very hard to believe a car would go from 12.5:1 to 14:1 with just a plenum and test pipes. I've seen many more cars with a lot more than that, not run lean. I dunno, I've done exhaust and intake on my car so I'll have to throw it on the dyno and see what it does A/F-wise.

 

No. The last dyno run was back in June (A/F posted above against my stock A/F from January).

-Chris

 

For those considering an eManage, this is what I would recommend when installing. Remove the battery cover and plastic casing around it (by the windshield). Then unhook the ECU and pull the wiring harness up into the engine bay. From there it is easy to solder anything you need, then wrap it and pull it back through.

Just my .02, also good for wideband/O2 simulators/anything tapping the ECU...

-D

 

thanx for that input derek, is the the plastic suround piece easy to remove as well?

-justin

 

Naw. That's unnecessary IMHO. There is plenty of room under the dash to work. The problem is trying to find the wires in the harness itself. There's close to 200 wires in there and they are all pretty tight so trying to find the exact wire on the back of the harness is tough. I don't think it would be any easier pulling the ECU up through the firewall and in fact it would just cause more work for yourself.

-Chris

 

The plastic pops right off.

Ask ACP what he thinks about this, he has done it both ways. My tuner pulled the harness into the engine bay in less than 2 minutes, then sat down on a stool and did the soldering.

ACP originally did his laying on his back upside down. Digging through all those wires in a cramped space with a hot soldering gun...

Just my opinion from seeing this done a number of times. Do it anyway you like...

-D

 

So all of that work just for AF? Why not just use a much simpler tool to manipulate it, like the S-AFC II ?

I know the E-manage is cool with it's interface and all, but damn that's a lot of work.

--wes

 

Mainly because the S-AFC II is about $100 more than the eManage and offers less options. Also, it was my understanding that you still had to go through the process of soldering wires into the ECU wiring harness with the S-AFC II. I would rather pay less, and have more functionality. If I have to work a little to achieve that... so be it.

 

You can get them used for about half what you paid for the E-manage. I suppose there is some soldering if you choose to, however there are far less wires to hook up. How many connections does the emanage require ?

At least if you decide to get a TT kit you'r eready to go

--wes

 

Also, if i'm not mistaken, the SAFC2 relies on altering sensor information to the ECU instead of actually mapping by modifying injector output like the greddy unit.

 

Well, I supposed that buying a used device is an option, but I feel that something as important as a fuel management computer should either be installed new, not not installed at all. As for the number of wires, it depends on the options you want. The main unit requires 5 wires, but there is an RPM signal adapter that you have to use for the Nissan CAN system which is an additional 8 wires. The Injector harness requires 7 wires. That's all that I have installed on mine (20 wires). For the Turbo setups, you also need to install the Ignition harness which has 12 more wires. Since I don't need to worry about advancing or retarding my ignition, I didn't get that harness.

-Chris

 

How is HKS F-CON V PRO?? Is it a good unit?

 

Chris, what Derek is saying is so true
I have done it both ways, and never again would I do it laying on my back, looking up at the ECU wires.
Pulling the wiring harness out takes 10 minutes, and then it is laying right in front of you.
Here is a picture when mine was out

 

Well, it would be easier to work on it right there in front of you, but for me that wasn't the hard part. The hard part was trying to find the specific wires on the back of the wiring harness. With all the wires there, it's pretty hard to trace them back to the origin, at least for me it was.

-Chris

 

hm. do you have to solder them or could u just used wire taps?

 

You must solder them. Wire taps do not give a good enough connection.

-Chris

 

Ummmmmm... like shown where?