Tomei Camshaft FOR VQ35HR
02-10-2009, 04:53 PM
#41
a built HR is not going to really perform significantly differently from a build DE - the difference is the HR is the stronger platform to start with (albeit, far more limited range of parts available)
also to the OP, I would skip the F Con and look for something that lets you manipulate cam timing if you are going to go for 272's +
also to the OP, I would skip the F Con and look for something that lets you manipulate cam timing if you are going to go for 272's +
02-11-2009, 04:48 AM
#44
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Valcon is not sold in the US, so really isn't a viable option IMHO - it also requires ( think) that you use HKS's own cams - making the total package price very expensive, and really an unknown quantity (I don't even know if the software platform is in English)
02-11-2009, 05:07 AM
#45
Would osiris control cam timing? and what is your take on GTM cams? would there be much power differance in the stage 2 vs stage 3 or would it only bring the powerband forther into the higher RPM range? Im planning on raising the revlimiter to 8200-8500
02-11-2009, 05:10 AM
#46
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First, this is about an HR, not a DE
I have no take on GTM cams - we don't offer their products
You would have to ask UpRev about the features of their product - again, not something we offer
I have no take on GTM cams - we don't offer their products
You would have to ask UpRev about the features of their product - again, not something we offer
02-12-2009, 05:17 PM
#49
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I actually have AAM test pipe I'm not sure what size but it should be 2.5"
then stock Y-pipe. Then Remus straight pipe(shold be 2.5" or bigger. It look huge). Then the Rumus muffler.
I was told by a lot of friends that I should get Y-pipe to complete the job.
To be hornets I don't really feel my car different in any mod I did.
I can tell it's louder and I got bogging during 2k-3k after I install test pipe but I don't really feel my car pick up better.
So it comes to question about Y-pipe. Is it worth $300 to try ?
then stock Y-pipe. Then Remus straight pipe(shold be 2.5" or bigger. It look huge). Then the Rumus muffler.
I was told by a lot of friends that I should get Y-pipe to complete the job.
To be hornets I don't really feel my car different in any mod I did.
I can tell it's louder and I got bogging during 2k-3k after I install test pipe but I don't really feel my car pick up better.
So it comes to question about Y-pipe. Is it worth $300 to try ?
02-13-2009, 10:09 AM
#51
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If I wanna build good N/A. I'm not talking about Big-bore kit or anything llike we have to take the motor out of the car tho.
What would you say to pull out the best HR for middle class people.
Last edited by GooDy151; 02-13-2009 at 02:53 PM.
07-06-2009, 12:21 PM
#53
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07-07-2009, 11:05 AM
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I'm going to be a test pig for the tomei 272/10.8 (in & ex) cam's. I plan on purchasing the 11.0mm lift tomei valve springs as well. As for proper ecu tuning, I have a Greddy E-manage ultimate hardwired into the factory ECU. It can control fuel and advance/retard timing as well (Works awesome with my 125 shot, so I'm positive it'll work fine with these cams). However it does not control VTC.
Z1 stated that the highest lift the HR pistons could take was 11.0mm; So I'm pretty positive the rest of the internal's should be fine. The lift difference is only going from 10.5mm(oem) to 10.8mm(tomei). I have all the breathing mods to compensate for the extra breathing that my HR will be doing (intake, full exhaust; no cats)
However, Im currently saving up and awaiting a couple of paychecks. I'll definately keep everyone updated whoever's interested. I'm about halfway there.
Z1 stated that the highest lift the HR pistons could take was 11.0mm; So I'm pretty positive the rest of the internal's should be fine. The lift difference is only going from 10.5mm(oem) to 10.8mm(tomei). I have all the breathing mods to compensate for the extra breathing that my HR will be doing (intake, full exhaust; no cats)
However, Im currently saving up and awaiting a couple of paychecks. I'll definately keep everyone updated whoever's interested. I'm about halfway there.
07-07-2009, 11:19 AM
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Could you go into detail as to what other kind of headwork should be done and why? The only lift difference is .3mm
07-07-2009, 11:22 AM
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it would end up being a dissertation which would take far too long to write
you're best bet is researching online and speaking to a machinist about how cams work - it's far more than "just"a lift difference
the worst thing you can do is pick cams because they sound cool on paper - get the right ones for the job, and they reward you. Get the wrong ones, and they are paperweights
you're best bet is researching online and speaking to a machinist about how cams work - it's far more than "just"a lift difference
the worst thing you can do is pick cams because they sound cool on paper - get the right ones for the job, and they reward you. Get the wrong ones, and they are paperweights
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 07-07-2009 at 11:27 AM.
07-07-2009, 02:05 PM
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it would end up being a dissertation which would take far too long to write
you're best bet is researching online and speaking to a machinist about how cams work - it's far more than "just"a lift difference
the worst thing you can do is pick cams because they sound cool on paper - get the right ones for the job, and they reward you. Get the wrong ones, and they are paperweights
you're best bet is researching online and speaking to a machinist about how cams work - it's far more than "just"a lift difference
the worst thing you can do is pick cams because they sound cool on paper - get the right ones for the job, and they reward you. Get the wrong ones, and they are paperweights
not so many people have done that kind of job and actually even tested the reliability of the system (that is quite critical if you track the car).
because one thing is 3 or 4 dyno pull with the engine temperature stable... one thing is driving the **** out of the car on a road course starting with the engine mildly warm and ending up really hot, with all the associated changes in a/f, air density, timing adjustment to avoid knock and so on...
I agree that on a stock engine is pointless going with extreme cams or pure "competition cams" unless they are ground just to run on a stock block, with stock pistons and stock heads...
bottom line or you get the right information before starting the work.. or you'll spend way more money than buying immediately a newer and more powerful car.
you cannot beat the factory or the factory official racing team (if there is a class involving that car and that engine)
07-07-2009, 02:58 PM
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Anyone know if the 11.0mm tomei valve springs will work with the oem valves?
Just talked to my engine builder and he said if the springs are too stiff, the valves could break.
Just talked to my engine builder and he said if the springs are too stiff, the valves could break.