Wilwood or Tilton Clutch Master?
#4
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (71)
OP, The Tilton is a higher quality unit than the wilwood albeit more expensive. The wilwoods have been great overall as well. Either kit is cheap to rebuild.
Wilwood is slightly easier to bleed than the tilton due to internal design differences.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Not true, The only reason someone said that is they had a RJM pedal adjusted WAY further than it should have been which bottomed out the rod to the pedal arm, The rod is threaded in a longer area than the stock so there is much more adjustment available. Customer should have shortened rod if using it way outside of its or factory specs with his custom set-up.
OP, The Tilton is a higher quality unit than the wilwood albeit more expensive. The wilwoods have been great overall as well. Either kit is cheap to rebuild.
Wilwood is slightly easier to bleed than the tilton due to internal design differences.
OP, The Tilton is a higher quality unit than the wilwood albeit more expensive. The wilwoods have been great overall as well. Either kit is cheap to rebuild.
Wilwood is slightly easier to bleed than the tilton due to internal design differences.
#6
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Just curious.... what advantage is there to a Tilton or Wilwood aftermarket unit over factory/OEM?
Wondering, because my guy - whom I trust implicitly - recommends, in this order:
OEM
Tilton
Wilwood - "if you must" - never got the full story about why he hates 'em so much but like I said, I trust him, he of many many many hot builds.
And of course, on an HR, any/all of these with the ZSP HD CSC when doing an R&R.
Wondering, because my guy - whom I trust implicitly - recommends, in this order:
OEM
Tilton
Wilwood - "if you must" - never got the full story about why he hates 'em so much but like I said, I trust him, he of many many many hot builds.
And of course, on an HR, any/all of these with the ZSP HD CSC when doing an R&R.
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#15
Just got the Southbend Stage 2 Daily kit with Tilton CMC and ZSpeed CSC installed!
Thanks to @AcidJake75!
The Tilton CMC went in fairly easily. No moving the ABS modules out of the way. Initially we ran into issues w/ bleeding, but I recalled reading someone having similar issues and that was due to the way the CMC was adjusted. so we easily got down to the bottom of it and got the car up and running.
Clutch feels much more solid than before. Maybe just 50% harder pedal push, but engagement window seems a little bit wider but easier to manage. Went with 19lb flywheel and the RPM drops from upshifts quickly fall in range for the next gear, making upshifts smoother for me.
Thanks to @AcidJake75!
The Tilton CMC went in fairly easily. No moving the ABS modules out of the way. Initially we ran into issues w/ bleeding, but I recalled reading someone having similar issues and that was due to the way the CMC was adjusted. so we easily got down to the bottom of it and got the car up and running.
Clutch feels much more solid than before. Maybe just 50% harder pedal push, but engagement window seems a little bit wider but easier to manage. Went with 19lb flywheel and the RPM drops from upshifts quickly fall in range for the next gear, making upshifts smoother for me.
Last edited by Deteria; 06-13-2016 at 05:36 AM.
#17
Vendor - Former Vendor
iTrader: (71)
Just got the Southbend Stage 2 Daily kit with Tilton CMC and ZSpeed CSC installed!
Thanks to @AcidJake75!
The Tilton CMC went in fairly easily. No moving the ABS modules out of the way. Initially we ran into issues w/ bleeding, but I recalled reading someone having similar issues and that was due to the way the CMC was adjusted. so we easily got down to the bottom of it and got the car up and running.
Clutch feels much more solid than before. Maybe just 50% harder pedal push, but engagement window seems a little bit wider but easier to manage. Went with 19lb flywheel and the RPM drops from upshifts quickly fall in range for the next gear, making upshifts smoother for me.
Thanks to @AcidJake75!
The Tilton CMC went in fairly easily. No moving the ABS modules out of the way. Initially we ran into issues w/ bleeding, but I recalled reading someone having similar issues and that was due to the way the CMC was adjusted. so we easily got down to the bottom of it and got the car up and running.
Clutch feels much more solid than before. Maybe just 50% harder pedal push, but engagement window seems a little bit wider but easier to manage. Went with 19lb flywheel and the RPM drops from upshifts quickly fall in range for the next gear, making upshifts smoother for me.
Adjustment is definitely key to get them to bleed easliy, I normally start with adjusting the new master to the same length as the one you took out, From there you can get it bled and do minor adjustments to get the engagement point where you want it.
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