So in the only other thread I have posted in you told me to quit being lazy, search and learn for myself. So here I am, doing just that and trying to apply the knowledge and gain greater understanding...

and you still criticize me.

You really are a ******** aren't you?



I know, I know, you said you have been called much worse by much better....

question is why aren't you getting the message?

 

can i be a dick, yeah certainly.... but this time i am trying to truly help you because i was really confused about offsets at first. a +40 is a horrible offset. if you like the wheels then get them, but why run spacers if you dont have to

 

both me an pyshin are trying to help ya... MOST members here will run a 15-25 offset

 

Thanks

 

I see this went a little south for a few. 3SJRAE, google offset calculator, and play with numbers a little. Plug in your specs, the ones you are looking at, and who others are running. It is how I learned

 

Personally, I'd avoid spacers if a decent offset was available.

 

What I find absolutely fascinating about this thread is that it's all about fit.... width, offset, brake clearance, etc.

No mention of weight and wheel construction, e.g., cast, forged, inflated ;-), etc.

All well and good but it kind of chaps me that wheel manufacturers gloss over these CRITICAL aspects of their products. (Although Tire Rack does supply this info, props to them!)

I personally find it useless to put on larger tires and wheels if the penalty is higher unsprung weight and/or less wheel rigidity causing tire deflection under load, thereby minimizing the value of such an upgrade.

And if any change (spacers, etc.) as such is going to take away anything from the razor sharp turn-in, no thanks. (If you ride a road bike, you know what I'm talking about wheel weightwise! "I saved 12.22 GRAMS using titanium aero spokes!" )

I have friends who stuff as much wheel and tire under their fenders then wonder why my ever so lightly modified and "under-tired" sled is much more lively and tossable than theirs. (Not a dig on anyone, mind you, just my ever-so-humble opinion.. laff!) Seriously, love what anyone does to their cars - it's their choice. I just like pragmatic and "purposeful/functional" tricks. "If it doesn't offer tangible performance uptick, it doesn't go on my car."

My set-up:

Currently run Track V.1s (I know, zzzzzzzz...) with very good (especially for the money!) Sumitomo HTRZ-3 Max Perfs year round (California, no snow). These Rays forged alloys took avg. 7# off each corner from the Touring 18s I had!! Keeping the tires stock sized also kept the weight down. VERY big difference in overall handling performance.... steering is dead on, input feel confidence inspiring.

Only aftermarket streetable wheel I'd consider are RPF-1s at about 1/2 pound lighter F&R without going to a pure race wheel - and that is NOT an option for the street, IMO. Won't be happening anytime soon though... I'm sensitive to weight difference, but not .5# sensitive.

Initially, I was concerned about the tires giving up the sharp and accurate turn-in that my former Mushylin (OK, Michelin) PS2s gave the car; but after break-in, these tires have proved to be just as accurate and grippy as the PS2's, which are nearly 2x the price of the HTRZ-3s. (Sort of an unfair comparison cuz the PS2's were toast when I got the car but nonetheless, even down at the bars, they were sharp and responsive.)

Another consideration on choosing a "conservative" set up is for two reasons:

First, the car, while not exactly light at 3200#, isn't like a Camaro or something; so why run tires big enough for a Camaro and NOT be able to warm the tires sufficiently (or retain enough heat) to achieve those maximum grip numbers ON PUBLIC ROADS (key distinction).

Secondly, even with upwards of 300ponies, the car isn't powerful nor "torquey" enough to seriously overcook the stock size unless you're REALLY pushing it to extremely illegal (vs. mildly illegal ) speeds and cornering. Again, PUBLIC ROADS, people! Track/auto-x/D1 use, this argument don't hold water, so keep that in mind.

IMO, Nissan did a good job of spec'g the Z's staggered tire set-up on the 18" performance versions. (BTW, mine's an Enthusiast model with just the right stuff in it for me.... Limited slip, NO VDC, defeatable TCS for a little tail happiness. Wink wink.)

With the tire/wheels dialed in, I set about to tune the suspension to meet my needs. I don't track the car but run the canyons and hills in/around the area* almost every Sunday morning (when I don't need to worry as much about other drivers). And very rarely do I go W2W with anyone. Just me, the sunrise, and my car.

Somewhere else on this site (I think), I go through my MILD suspension mods (mild because that's all that's necessary for my style of driving). In a nutshell: Bilstein and Eibach for up down control (non-adjustable, non-coilover, Hotchkis adjustable bars for tuning lateral balance, set for mild oversteer (hole 1 up front, hole 2 rear). Perfect for my likes and style.

By the way, if your choose Bilsteins, figure on lessening the lowering effect of the springs by as much as .5". They will raise the car back up a tad over the advertised spring heights.

So, while I'm enjoying (and always learning) all of the fitment discussion, I think it's overlooking a CRITICAL component on your rolling setup. Just my undervalued $.02.

Comments or flames welcome. Peace.

Mic

* Note for other NorCal'rs ("Bay Areans?"): I run 9, 35 (92 junction to 84), and 84 (Redwood City-to-coast/1), occasionally Radio Road, Twin Peaks. Occasionally the highly patrolled Redwood Rd and Berkeley Hills over in East Bay. (Recon runs before dawn, first "good" run start at just minutes before daybreak. BUT, if there are other cars/hikers etc in vicinity, I'll abort and be bummed out that there are other crazies on the road at THAT hour on a Sunday. ) If you see me, wave! I might not see you at 9/10ths but I'll eventually stop at a Peet's for coffee. Laff.

 

That the Enkei Raijin at 18x9.5 +15 wouldnt sit out so far? (Not that I mind I love it!)

This is only a mock fit but I doubt itll sink in once I actually put tires on and set the car on the ground.
Unless i'm wrong.

I ask since i've seen a previous members car on the Enkei thread and supposedly he said he needed a 10mm spacer in the rear.

 

once you get it on the ground, the camber will bring the top of the wheel in some.... but that does stick out a bit

 

Ahh I seee, but still it pokes out way further than what ive seen and what I calculated.

Im just so surprised that I even posted a thread about it.

 

i just went and looked at mine.... (same specs as you diff wheel though) and at the bottom of the bumper my wheel stick out about 3 inches or so, but the top is tucked in the wheel well. i think you will be okay. what size tire are you putting on it

 

275/40/18 on the rear.

Might just need to run a spacer, my excitement of what I saw is blinding me to the facts lol.

 

you won't need a spacer, i am running that size and i had to roll the fenders.... you could do a 5mm if you wanted after you rolled

 

Ahh yeah I want an aggressive look.

I know fender rolling will be necessary, thanks for all this info man!

 

Won't be close to that once the car is down, my 10.5 +15 looks barely flush with the fender. This should have been posted in the 18" wheel thread.

 

anytime..... actually let me run and take a couple pics of mine so you can get an idea

 

Alright sweet, if you could post specs also thatd be nice.

Looks nice but I might want to run a spacer to get that too flush with the fender.

I was thinking 10 mm.
Thats around .4 inches

 

18x9.5 +15 with BFG sport comp 2 tires 275/40

 

How perfect!

How do you like those tires?

I seen reviews and most said theyre really sticky, which is something id want lol.

 

i really like em, i used to run the v12s but i was burning through those too quick. i have had these about 4500 miles and they seem just as sticky if not a tad more than the v12, they are noticeably wider than the hankooks even though the are the same size, and i think for all 4 (255/40 front and 275/40 rear) for just over $900 from discount tire direct