PSI and SLIP light NOT coming on
#1
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So i've always read about people who couldn't get these lights off. I now have the opposite problem. I just put on my winter tires and was expecting the PSI indicator to come on as usual as I don't have the sensors in these tires. Funny thing is it has never turned on. Now I can live with that I guess, but then I let the car slip a bit and my SLIP indicator wasn't coming on either. Im kind of curious as to why none of the indicators are lighting up.
#3
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
Slip light shouldn't come on just because you changed wheels - it all has to do with relative tire sizes.
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
PSI light only comes on about about 30-45 minutes of driving. Once you turn the car off, the "clock" resets so it has to be continuous.
#7
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The sensors react differently when you have functional sensors in the wheel responding.
If you have functional ones, they'll notify you after you go approx 20 mph. (don't quote me on that speed)
If you don't have sensors or your sensors are not functional (ie, dead batteries,) they'll notify you after 30 minutes of continuous driving with no stopping.
If you have functional ones, they'll notify you after you go approx 20 mph. (don't quote me on that speed)
If you don't have sensors or your sensors are not functional (ie, dead batteries,) they'll notify you after 30 minutes of continuous driving with no stopping.
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#8
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Originally Posted by ASW
i've got a slow leak in one of my tires, have to press it up about once every 2-3 weeks. the light comes on by the time i get to the end of my street, about 200 yards and seems to always come on when tire pressure drops to 30 psi.
#11
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That’s my thought on this. But, his problem is certainly an “orphan.” I haven’t seen this reported by anyone else, so I wonder. I reserve any comments until he reports his tire sizes (front and rear).
--Spike
--Spike
#13
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Nevermind, SLIP indicator is working. I think I thought it wasn't coming on because it's VERY delayed now with my winter wheels. I'll get the back-end going and I have to keep it slipping after the computer kills the acceleration atleast twice, then it'll flash. Good enough for now, I was just worried that it wasn't working at all. Thanks for your help.
#14
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Originally Posted by bender
Nevermind, SLIP indicator is working. I think I thought it wasn't coming on because it's VERY delayed now with my winter wheels. I'll get the back-end going and I have to keep it slipping after the computer kills the acceleration atleast twice, then it'll flash. Good enough for now, I was just worried that it wasn't working at all. Thanks for your help.
I think your “test” methodology may be faulty. Here is what is probably going on. When initiating the “test;” you start spinning the rears, lose some forward momentum, and expect TCS to kill power and see the SLIP light. You are expecting an event. In fact there isn’t enough traction loss to activate TCS. When you press down harder on the accelerator generating more rear wheel spin; TCS engages, kills the power and illuminates the SLIP light.
If that isn’t the case, then it’s probably tire sizes. That’s why I asked about this. The first set of snows I drove on was not sized correctly. In this case (wrong sizes) you get almost the reverse of what you expect from TCS. TCS occasionally engages when it shouldn’t (when your rear tires are not slipping) and doesn’t engage reliable when it should (rear tires are slipping).
Or, it could be a combination of these.
--Spike
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