N80

Black 18x9.5 +15 RPF1s came today. They are beautiful. Still fretting over 265/40s all around vs 265/35s all around. Probably getting a little OCD about this.

265/40 pros: no change in speedo. Probably look a little better since they will fill up the wheel well a little better. Cons: Fewer tires come in this size. Toyo Proxes R1R does not. Taller sidewall amy flex a little more than 265/35 in corners (but probably ride a little better). Remote chance that they might rub.

265/35 pros: shorter sidewall with less flex. Lowers car a tiny bit over stock. Less chance of rubbing. Cons: Speedo will be off (but I don't look at the speedo at the track anyway. Might mess with TC but I doubt it. (I do not have VDC.) But TC will be off at the track anyway. Might not look as good (but that is not a priority for me).

If I can get a good price on the Toyos that will seal the deal for the 265/35. Otherwise will probably flip a coin.

Time for another Luvox. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luvox

slow7

iTrader: (1)

congrats man post somempics when u can i would go 40s all around i dnt feel safe driving 35 around the streets but then again i live in some horrible roads lol

R6n350GT

iTrader: (1)

I got 265/30 and 295/30 on 19x10 +35 and regret it.. The 30 is SO small you can park close to gutters or it will rash, you can drive up angled/curved gutters or it will rash, the rim is so close to the ground that if you drove over a rock or raised edge and the edge of the lip was above it it would rash... ESP if you a tiny bit stretched like 265 on a 10...

But sneak peak of my new Enkei Raijin 18x9.5+15

-Trav-

iTrader: (37)

A 265/30 9.5 is slightly stretched but it depends on the brand tire how stretched itll be. 265/30 on a 10 is getting into stretched stance category. 265/30 9.5 and 295/30 10.5 isnt the nightmare like youre describing though. I DD'd this for a couple months and even took a 1500 mile road trip with no problems. Just gotta watch the road and know how to park.


If I could do it again (and I will) I woulda done 275/30 in the front for less stretch.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

265/30/19 compared to 265/35 or 40/18 is applesranges.

I'd go 265/35/18 personally.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I would probably just do 275/35-18 , not a choice, but wider seems better. Especially with this heavy car.

-Trav-

iTrader: (37)

Ohh hes on 18s...265/35 and 285/35, or 275/35 and 295/35.

N80

I think that is what I'm going to do. There are more tire choices in that size.

I'm sticking with 265s because based on the research I've done here, that is the widest I can go with zero chance of rubbing or need for rolled fenders. Some folks have no problems with 275s, others do. (And this will be a square set up for easy rotation.)

It looks like the Nitto NT05 is about the cheapest max performance summer tire. I'm going to give them a try.

P.S.: I have made some emails and have found a place nearby that rolls fenders. $150 for both of the rears. But I'd much prefer not to.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

If you are going to roll, most 275s will be fine on the 9.5 +15. I'd go 265 or 275 RS3.

N80

Would only roll if I ran into a problem. Might roll once I'm to the point that I'm ready to put a cage in it. Otherwise I want to leave body and interior alone.

Would love to get the RS3's but I am officially tapped out and the Nittos are going to be close to $200 less. Might not sound like much but with the wheels, new pads, rotors, track day expenses etc.....well, I'm done for now. (And I'm not even racing or TT, just DE!).

N80

Just got a set of black RPF1s for the track. I was not willing to pay $25 a peice for Enkei hub caps (its just insane that Enkei doesn't include caps with $350 wheels).

Looks aren't a huge issue for me, and these will be used primarily at the track....but at the same time I'm not fond of how they look without caps and nothing wrong with looking good at the track.

Does anyone know a source for cheaper caps. I don't care what brand. Just a flat black disk would be fine with me.

Thanks.

AdvanZ33

iTrader: (105)

What offset did you get? I had 18x9.5+15 in the front and a flat type center cap wouldn't work because the hub bolt stuck out.

N80

Same as you. Didn't think about the hub bolt. But the offset shouldn't have anything to do with that should it? That's just a matter of the wheel thickness.

Anyway, what is the solution? Any domed center caps that will fit on Enkei wheels? If not, it sounds like a retail opportunity for some enterprising Chinaman.

Vivid Racing

iTrader: (67)

Enkei doesn't include center caps for 2 reasons.

1) The RPF1 is a track wheel. Track wheels never include center caps. They usually come off on the track anyway.

2) It's a pretty good quality wheel, especially for the price. You'd be paying $375 instead of $350 if they included the caps.


As far as what center caps fit, you can either buy the Enkei ones or go to Home Depot and buy some 2" "knock out seals." They're used for capping off outlet boxes; ask someone in the electrical department for help. Paint 'em, and stick 'em in your wheels. The Enkei caps look 100000x better though.

N80

I agree it is a track wheel and I'm probably not going to worry about it. But according to Enkei they do include caps on the RPF1 in some sizes, 15" I think. Edit: You are correct, no center caps for any RPF1s. And if their $25 stamped center caps come off then that just makes them even more overpriced. My OEM ones have never come off at the track.

Thanks for the tip. I would be afraid that something I shoved into the wheel would come off at the track and probably hit a corner worker or something with my luck. And you're right, the real thing would definitely look better, but it surely is not worth $100. I'll stick with the four-spare-wheels look....it is very business like.

And if those are the only two options then I still think someone could make some money making them exactly the way Enkei does (cheaply) and selling them for $10.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

The 19's come with caps , bolt on style like the NT03 uses. Either way, suck it up for street pretty or leave it raw.


BTW , if you haven't lost one at the track your not driving fast. I ignored the rules and left my OEM caps on for one track day. Melted the caps.

VMRWheels

+1

I was going to suggest knock out plugs or seals as well. Almost exactly like a flat cap for a lot of wheels. It's an inexpensive option for those that want centercaps.

N80

Raw it is. Mucho macho, right?




Probably not. But I'm braking hard enough that the pads and rotors are smoking and the wheels are still too hot to touch even after a cool down lap.

Waiz

iTrader: (57)

Threads merged

I would suggest you do a search here for "center cap", there are several examples within this thread

N80