XXR Wheels Thread
Enkei has several in proper sizing for the Z between $900-1,600 for a complete set of 4 that will give you looks and reduce unsprung weight. Models include: RPF1, PF01, PF01 Evo, RP03, NT03, Raijin, Kojin, just to name a few that are popular. 18x9.5 & 18x10.5 +15 is one of the most common setups.
To start out, I have a Black 2003 Base 350z.
I've had these wheels on preorder for a month and a half or so:
18x10.5 +20 all around and I'm thinking of changing my mind:

And get these get these instead:
In a 20x9 +15 Front & 20x11 +15 Rear (I would really like 20x11 square, I love deep dish wheels but I would probably have to run a spacer in the rear to even the wheels out)

What are your guys thoughts? On the 18x10.5, I was probably going to run 255/35/18. And something of similar stretch on the 20's. I don't want to have to run coilovers to get low, just springs.
Thanks for the help.
I've had these wheels on preorder for a month and a half or so:
18x10.5 +20 all around and I'm thinking of changing my mind:

And get these get these instead:
In a 20x9 +15 Front & 20x11 +15 Rear (I would really like 20x11 square, I love deep dish wheels but I would probably have to run a spacer in the rear to even the wheels out)

What are your guys thoughts? On the 18x10.5, I was probably going to run 255/35/18. And something of similar stretch on the 20's. I don't want to have to run coilovers to get low, just springs.
Thanks for the help.
Darn...
another of my long replies... but no way to shorten it.
You said: “the same size wheels on all 4 corners,” but I think you meant to say “same size tires on all 4 corners.” I made this guess because the rest of your post goes on about tires.
Actually the same tire size on all four corners (all-square) can mean different things: It may mean that all four tires are exactly the same size, or that the front and rear tires have the same width but a different profile.
I’ve run different sizes on various cars over the years. Right now I have 245/40-18” F and 245/45-18” rear. That isn’t all-square exactly since the rears are taller than the fronts. This setup is fun to drive because it’s almost neutral (understeer is greatly reduced). The handling problem with 245’s front and rear is that the rears wear more quickly, and this potentially puts you into a dangerous oversteer situation. NOTE: This is never a problem for experienced drivers who understand oversteer.
A better setup for an amateur or novice driver is understeer, but not as much as you get with a 225/45-18” F with 245/45-18” R Stock setup.
A really fun setup is 255/40-18” F with 275/40-18” R. The wider 255 fronts hold well to minimize understeer while the 275 rears won’t break easily (reducing oversteer). This is just a great setup for the amateur driver, and not nearly as “tricky” as my 245/40-18 with 245/45-18 setup.
My comments are greatly simplified since there can be other factors that significantly influence the 350z’s handling. For example changes to the suspension (drop, springs/shocks/coilovers, etc.) can alter driving characteristics.
Hope this is helpful and not just confusing,
--Spike
another of my long replies... but no way to shorten it.You said: “the same size wheels on all 4 corners,” but I think you meant to say “same size tires on all 4 corners.” I made this guess because the rest of your post goes on about tires.
Actually the same tire size on all four corners (all-square) can mean different things: It may mean that all four tires are exactly the same size, or that the front and rear tires have the same width but a different profile.
I’ve run different sizes on various cars over the years. Right now I have 245/40-18” F and 245/45-18” rear. That isn’t all-square exactly since the rears are taller than the fronts. This setup is fun to drive because it’s almost neutral (understeer is greatly reduced). The handling problem with 245’s front and rear is that the rears wear more quickly, and this potentially puts you into a dangerous oversteer situation. NOTE: This is never a problem for experienced drivers who understand oversteer.
A better setup for an amateur or novice driver is understeer, but not as much as you get with a 225/45-18” F with 245/45-18” R Stock setup.
A really fun setup is 255/40-18” F with 275/40-18” R. The wider 255 fronts hold well to minimize understeer while the 275 rears won’t break easily (reducing oversteer). This is just a great setup for the amateur driver, and not nearly as “tricky” as my 245/40-18 with 245/45-18 setup.
My comments are greatly simplified since there can be other factors that significantly influence the 350z’s handling. For example changes to the suspension (drop, springs/shocks/coilovers, etc.) can alter driving characteristics.
Hope this is helpful and not just confusing,
--Spike
Awesome, thanks. I've actually done some more reading about choosing tire sizes from a performance perspective and it looks like a lot of guys that do occasional track days recommend the same size wheels on all 4 corners, supposedly due to the fact that the 350z tends to understeer. Is there a rule of thumb as far as the optimal tire width (assuming the diameter is 18") to maximize balance and handling? I want the car to look good, but I certainly don't want to sacrifice how it handles. Maybe having 255/40 tires on the front would be better.. any thoughts on this?
About two weeks ago I was on my way to school and coming up to a bend in the road the car next to me decided he needed to cut me off and ran me into a curb. My right side hit so hard it split my control arm my front wheel wedged into the wheel well bending the fender out. both right rims which were 35th aniversary edition were were shot. So after trying to find replacement rims for a good deal I decided i would sell the other two and get new pair of rims to compliment fresh paint job and body work. ended up ordering XXR 526 17X10 in the rear and 17X9 in the front. Just got Z back two days ago and was deffinatly worth the wait! In the next month or so will be making a purhase of some tein s-tech springs to close wheel gap
Thought I'd chime in with some 527's.
They are 18x9.75 +20 all around with CooperTire RS3-A 275/35/18 tires. I'll be sticking a 10mm spacer in the back. This is also on stock suspension which I plan to replace with a moderate drop in the future.
They are 18x9.75 +20 all around with CooperTire RS3-A 275/35/18 tires. I'll be sticking a 10mm spacer in the back. This is also on stock suspension which I plan to replace with a moderate drop in the future.
I don't know man. The 35th Anniversary wheels in 18's look pretty good. I don't see dropping down to cheap 17 inch wheels as an upgrade.
You can defintely find a set of good condition OEM wheels under $1k with or without tires. I'm sure you spent that or more on this setup.
But, if you're happy then that is all the counts!
You can defintely find a set of good condition OEM wheels under $1k with or without tires. I'm sure you spent that or more on this setup.
But, if you're happy then that is all the counts!
Well to be fair, larger sized rims add more weight and your car has to put more effort to turning them and get them moving, plus larger rims mean lower profile tires/less rubber contact on the road=less traction etc. There's a reason why you see most race cars not having outrageous sized rims. Let's not forget the issue of rotational mass. Each pound of rotational mass is equivalent to several pounds static unsprung weight. If two wheel and tire combos have the same tire circumference, but one has a lighter overall weight ( in particular, lighter outer metal rim ), it will take less torque to spin that wheel, giving you more power to applied to the ground. Also a smaller side wall and rim will have faster acceleration due to the fact that its speeds up faster. And smaller wheels means less expensive tires, the tires take more of the punishment over bumps than the rims or suspension etc.
Last edited by Jah70; Apr 14, 2014 at 02:44 PM.









