I have a 04 Z Performance.
Currently running 255/40/18 front, 275/40/18 rears. VDC obviously is happy thats why went this route.
I been wanting to maybe go to a 35 series for fitment purposes. Will this still work? If not can the VDC be disabled in order to run this set up? Ive read many threads about disabling the VDC for track use but I was wondering is the VDC can be completely disabled to daily drive the Z with this tire set up.

 

Depends how much you want spend on this - but can you not turn off VDC manually every time you drive the car (acknowledged it’s a pain)? I believe you can remove one of the fusible link in the fuse box near the battery and it will disable traction control.

I dont know if there is a way to tune this out with Uprev but other standalone ECUs will allow you to increase the delta between wheel speed sensors before traction control kicks in.

 

A while back i had found some mod online you can purchase that disable the vdc with a push of a button just cant remember the name of it. Im thinking of not only going with a smaller profile tire but maybe also go from a 275 to a 265. So i wanted to disable the vtc so i wont have to be turning off the button every single time i start the car

 

There's a box you can unplug under the center console. I unplugged mine. VDC is always off

 

Is this the yaw sensor?

 

Yes

 

If going to, say, a 35 aspect tire, just keep the stagger (+/-3% F-R) the same and VDC wiil be unaffected. Speedo error is a minor irritant. The only real downside is wheel gap but you mentioned "for fitment" so presume you're either doing weird offset wheels, camberganging, or dropping it into the weeds. No gap then.

Only upside I see to shorter tires is a minor (read: tiny) acceleration pickup from a lower effective rear gear.

 

Maybe it was this thread? https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...n-off-vdc.html

The switch is also kind of funny.

 

Off set on the Work wheels I have on the car right now with the above mentioned tires sizes are 18x9.5 +8 and 18x10.5 +8. Ive already rolled/pulled in the rear which im having no rubbing issues as we speak but I would like to go a little lower I have a feeling with the tire set up i have now it will rub. How much im not sure yet... so for now im gonna go lower and see how it goes. If I do come across rubbing issues I was thinking maybe changing the tire profile for fitment but nothing camber crazy or extreme stance.

And i was asking about disabling VDC in case if I do go with a lower profile tire or maybe for example if i want to end up going from a 275 to a 265 in the rear. Again this is if i experience any rubbing after lowering the car a bit more.

 

This is how my car sits now

 

OK, looks good. Not sure why you want moarloh but it's your front lip and exhaust pipes to do as you please. Haha.

 

I'll never understand the need to neuter handling for "looks"

 

Well, maybe the difference between "looking cool" in a parking lot versus "being cool" by pulling 1.1gs without crashing?

bre's car looks like it does ok in both areas; but yeah, not sure another 10mm is worthwhile; but if on coilovers, at least the experiment can easily be reversed.

 

Thanks guys for the input. Yesterday i got off work early and slapped on the Work Vs hex caps. I was looking at the car and i was doing my monthly check ups and came to a conclusion that im not gonna go lower. I wasnt planning on going much more lower anyways. Im 44 years old so although I do like how these Z"s look lowered and I rather have a comfortable ride and not worry about going over speed bumps and such while im driving it for now. The car is actually going to my 17 year old son once he graduates from HS as a gift. That was the whole plan from the beginning. So im trying to build it as legit as possible and for it to look good. I do have coilovers on and yes like Micvelo said I can experiment but having to do that and getting alignment then not liking it or having issues then having to raise it back AND another alignment.... not worth it lol.

 

On a different note maybe you guys can give advice on this. I noticed this yesterday when i was under the car. How the toe bolts are sitting. When I installed the spc toe bolts over a year ago I installed them both facing up. Since then I have had the car aligned when I got new tires on last year. I notice that the toe bolts are sitting different as pictured. Is this a problem? or should both be sitting with the larger end on the top/bottom? Now i dont know if the last alignment shop set them like this or if one of the bolts is moving? I do see one of the have moved according to the white mark...

 

Nahh, s'long as the alignment (rear toe in this case) is on spec, it's OK. The offset (cam) bushings are designed to take up the slack on either side if there's need. Guessing there was some need to twist the bushing around to fight some sort of rear suspension wear issue as you mentioned. So, all good if alignment's on point. Only way to know is to have the shop check the alignment. But guessing they put the hash marks on. That's a good thing. A lot of schlock shops wouldn't bother.

 

so I took it to the alignment shop today and the alignment was all off. Last time I took in I had to take it to someone else that I didn't know. Didn't feel to confident when I left but the numbers were within spec. Today took it to my guy and everything was off. I took it in cause I noticed my tires specifically the rears were wearing uneven. He put everything to spec but the steering wheel is off a bit. He tried to correct it 3 times and couldn't get it perfect. He said it maybe the steering rack that might be bad. This guy does nothing but cars with aftermarket suspension and has a good reputation. He worked on my car for over 2 hours. Test driving it and putting up on the alignment rack all 3 times. Not sure what is the issue here

 

Sounds like he's bad at alignments

 

Steering wheel should be able to be centered, that's basic stuff.