how easy is it to replace bose sub with alpine r 10" in stock location?
#1
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how easy is it to replace bose sub with alpine r 10" in stock location?
I have a 1995 nissan maxima i was driving before I got the 350z. I have an alpine 10" R-series sub and 500 watt alpine amp to go with it. I was hoping the bose system would be good, but its severely lacking in the low end. Anyway I was wondering if i could easily swap in my amp and sub into the stock location or not?
Where is the location of the stock amp powering the bose sub right now?
Will I have to run new wiring/fuse/etc from the battery to power just this amp/sub or will the stock wiring be enough to power 500 watts in addition to whatever the bose speakers use?
I like the treble/midrange in the doors and the stock head unit is fine so all i want to have replaced is the subwoofer.... how easy will this be?
Where is the location of the stock amp powering the bose sub right now?
Will I have to run new wiring/fuse/etc from the battery to power just this amp/sub or will the stock wiring be enough to power 500 watts in addition to whatever the bose speakers use?
I like the treble/midrange in the doors and the stock head unit is fine so all i want to have replaced is the subwoofer.... how easy will this be?
#6
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The thing is, I've never "worked" on cars. Although I know a lot about home audio and have wired and put together projects in other arenas, I dont know anything about car audio. In my previous car, I had circuit city do the install, but all the installers I called refuse to touch the system unless I buy parts from them, new.
I guess I'm wondering if I ran wire, which I'd have to do all the way from the battery to the hatch area, how difficult is it? how much 'tearing apart' of the car is involved? and can I still use it with the stock head unit? I'd really rather not replace it at all.
I guess I'm wondering if I ran wire, which I'd have to do all the way from the battery to the hatch area, how difficult is it? how much 'tearing apart' of the car is involved? and can I still use it with the stock head unit? I'd really rather not replace it at all.
#7
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Honestly it sounds like you might be better off just having someone else do it. Small price to pay for the piece of mind that it was done correctly and could save you more time or money in the long run.
As far as the Alpine Type r in the stock location, it sounds worse than the factory sub. I tried the same idea with the same sub thinking I had done it years ago and it sounded good and I was way off.
As far as the Alpine Type r in the stock location, it sounds worse than the factory sub. I tried the same idea with the same sub thinking I had done it years ago and it sounded good and I was way off.
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#8
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Honestly it sounds like you might be better off just having someone else do it. Small price to pay for the piece of mind that it was done correctly and could save you more time or money in the long run.
As far as the Alpine Type r in the stock location, it sounds worse than the factory sub. I tried the same idea with the same sub thinking I had done it years ago and it sounded good and I was way off.
As far as the Alpine Type r in the stock location, it sounds worse than the factory sub. I tried the same idea with the same sub thinking I had done it years ago and it sounded good and I was way off.
#9
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One of the under strut boxes would sound good with the sub. Thats basically what I did for my wife while building a box for her 12's. I cant see any of those boxes that go in the stock sub location sounding as good as anything in the rear.
#10
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If you're talking about the stock bose sub behind the drivers seat, i've done the swap before using a jl 10' w1v1 i believe in an open air setup. It sounded like absolute crap, then i bought a wicked cas magic box that's made specifically for that spot in the Z and now running a jlw3v3 and it sounds wonderful. More than enough low end than needed and i'm running a rockford fosgate sub. I'll be upgrading soon tho to the jl 13' w5 with the wicked cas setup, found the box from them and can't wait. If you really want to go that route and have it in the stock location, check with them, that way you won't lose truck space, well what little we have anyway
#11
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The vast majority of subwoofers are designed around a closed box. The trapped air acts spring to retard the movement of the cone in-and-out. Without this air tight enclosure the speaker will over extend in both directions distorting beyond it's designed range of performance (in layman's terms sound like poo). The area behind the seat isn't sealed and will prove nearly impossible to seal, others have tried it and fallen short of the requirement to make a completely air tight enclosure.
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