johnww

Hello. I'm a new 2007 Z owner and I'm seeking advise on upgrading my standard Enthusiast sound system. Do you start with the speakers or the head unit. Any suggestions from someone who has done this before?

Thanks,

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Did you even consider using the search feature here?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I don't think anyone has done it yet. I would start with a head unit

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

I've done it and my choice was to upgrade speakers first. I went with MB Quart separates up front with an amp to provide clean power. It makes a huge difference in sound, but the headunit still looks absolutely stock. The OP may have some different priorities, but if sound is your priority, go for high-end speakers first and the power to rock 'em.

Spike100

Hi John, …I read the question you posted…
… and, I would like to offer some help.

The stock speakers in your car are horrible.

They are made of paper, and support only 40 watts.

You might think this is a joke, but the CES Nissan delivers in the Z is meant only as a replacement system. Nissan never intended that anyone who wanted good sound to keep the cheap Clarion system that came in the 350zEnthusiast.

The first replacement is the door speakers (front stage) and disconnecting the rear speakers (which are worse than awful). If you keep the OEM H/U, go with speakers that sound good with low input-power. Your 350z Enthusiast’s CES did not include an external amplifier.

Here is what I did upgrading the CES in my 2003 350z Performance model.

1. Add an External amp
2. Upgrade the front component speakers
3. Disconnect the rear co-axial speakers
4. Replace the OEM Clarion H/U

--Spike

Bdizz777

I noticed the rears are pointless when i got my Z..actually the pass rear wasnt even working. The guy left 2 subs, rockford power amp, and h/u. So i would add upgrade speakers first then h/u. If you like to have ALL your speakers then get all 4 speakers if not get the front 2 and fade ur h/u to the front. I faded mine +1 to the front so i didnt blow them

They are 6.5" so youll find a HUGE selection of speakers personal preference. Good luck man im gonna be adding front speakers soon.

verdict.

Thread moved to Audio & Video

DarkCreep

iTrader: (1)

Radio first. ALWAYS go with radio first.
You have no idea how much better OE speakers sound when you get an aftermarket radio.


Anyways, get a radio, then speakers, then add a sub.

DarkCreep

iTrader: (1)

Why do the rear speakers sound the way they do? I have never heard speakers sound so horrible.

Spike100

They are inexpensive speakers built with paper cones.

I replaced mine with inexpensive aftermarket speakers that provided much better sound.

If you want better sound in the Z, replace everything (H/U, front and rear speakers, amp - if Bose, etc.).

--Spike

ntwillie1

iTrader: (3)

I agree. A good head unit will improve the sound of your stock speakers. I would get a new HU first and then go from there.

However, if you have the funds I say replace it all.

DarkCreep

iTrader: (1)

Every paper speaker ive heard has sounded much better than the muffled junk in the back.

kend

I'm searching how to improve sound and found this thread; do the same rules above apply to a roadster? My new-to-me 2007 Roadster touring stock radio does not sound nearly as good as my stock 2008 Altima radio (which makes me sad inside). The sound is kind of hollow and metalic. I don't need loud although some more volume would help with wind noise, really want to keep stock hu but should I just change front speakers?

Spike100

^^ Does your car have the OEM Clarion radio setup or the Bose system?

kend

It's Bose

Spike100

^^ Bose is a proprietary system designed to work with its own components. Integrating non-Bose components (H/U, amps, speakers, etc.) into a Bose system is unpredictable.

kend

***sigh** If you didn't want to spend more than $500 (can do all install myself) what parts would you go with? Appreciate you experience with this; Sonic has a set of 4 JBL662 6.5" on sale today for $149 and they are 2ohm?

BTW, I want it to be stealth since its in a roadster

Spike100

^^ I would give it a try. Worst case is possibly having a lower volume at the same settings. The Bose amp is small. You might want to try installing just the door speakers as a first step to test how it works.

It does make sense keeping the factory H/U since it is designed for your interior.

The difference between a 2 ohm and a 4 ohm speaker is the resistance. Speakers with lower resistance pull more power from your amplifier; a 2 ohm speaker with less resistance to electrical flow pulls more power from the amplifier (and sounds louder) than a 4 ohm speaker.

kend

yeah, my hope is to match the resistance of the stock speakers but with better quality. From what I'm reading on here adding Raammat may be just as important. Do you know where the amps are located (have not opened anything yet). I also am considering switching to a higher output class D amp if you know of one that fits as a direct replacement.

Spike100

It’s a good idea matching speaker resistance to the amps’ output (2 ohm in Bose systems). People installing 4 ohm speakers with the 350z Bose system complain that the volume is way too low. That is because the Bose amp cannot deliver adequate sound to a speaker wit that much resistance. Also, the Bose amps in the 350z Bose upgrade are small and lack adequate power.
======================

The 350z coupe has a noisy interior because the rear wheels are inside the car. Sound deadening quiets the interior and aids listening to your CES. But there is a caveat. If you do not install the sound deadening correctly, its benefit is diminished. Arguably I believe it is beneficial placing sound deadening in the front doors, the rear cargo floor, and over the rear interior wheel wells. Some readers here will demand you also cover the front floor, front wheel wells, and under the interior tunnel (I have no idea how you do that).
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The Bose 350z system uses two amps . If you search here you will find a diagram. One is in the back of the car and it drives the front and rear speakers. The second drives the SubW (and is located in the compartment behind the driver’s seat near the SubW).
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I think (I might be wrong) that most of the class D amps work as 2 ohms with subwoofers or 4 ohms speakers.

My advice if you are considering swapping amps and speakers is that you consider changing out the H/U as well. Simply changing out the speakers with your Bose system will provide a reliable solution. But, changing everything except the H/U is expensive and the result is compromised if you leave the Bose H/U in place.