savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Hey all,

My JL 320.4 amp lost a rear channel, out of warranty, so it looks like I'm buying a new amp.

I'm no expert but I know the basics pretty well of audio specs, have installed a head unit before, and two or three cars worth of speaker installs, as well have done dynamat and damplifier pro installs too...but...I've never done an amp install as I didn't want to fry my car.

So...to replace the JL...is it literally something I can do by simply disconnecting the power and audio cables, placing in the new amp and screwing it down, then hooking up those same cables and turning the car on?

Or should I just pay for another amp install and let the shop do it? Paid about $60 first time around, they did a good job, but I'd rather not waste money if this is as simple as I think it is...except for the bolting of the amp to the car that is...that part I'm a little leary about with questions on exactly what are the do's and don'ts? Amp is below driver's seat.

Thanks for all help,

Saved

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

It shouldn't be a problem as long as the new amp doesn't require bigger gauge wire. It's just a matter of swapping out the old with the new and making sure the connections are correct. If you're sticking with the same power, it'll be easy. Sounds like you're fairly proficient with installs. If you can change speakers, you'll be fine. Just don't touch the power cord to the ground! Otherwise, you'll be changing the inline fuse (or not if you don't have one).

Spike100

You sound as though you know what you are doing. I would do the swap myself if I were you. You are disconnecting and reconnecting the same wires.

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Thanks gang..that's my thinking too, I've built my own sub box for the under strut area as well..a lot of work but sounds great..so I've got some experience in various audio areas...but....my concern is that the physical size of the new amp will require new mounting holes and I'm not sure of a) how to screw the amp down believe it or not...I know it can't be bolted to the metal or electrical badness happens, so what is used other than wood to put between the amp and the chassis? Didn't get to overwatch the amp install so I didn't pick up on that tidbit and that's why I'm leary. Only boom boom I want is from the sub...not my amp exploding. And b) what screws are used? Bolts and nuts and blue loctite? Metal screws? Yes...I'm not afraid to ask the dumb questions.

Power wise I actually want to step up from 60W p/channel to 100W p/channel as I hear the Hertz speakers really benefit from more power (Hertz HSK 165...not the XL's....great great speakers and worth the money)...supposedly the mids really come alive..if they get bright I can just EQ them down, but greater mid fullness would be a nice touch. So...a side question is does going to more power affect the install at all? The original wiring kit was a high quality kit from Amazon with actual 4 gauge wire I believe? Not chintzy stuff...I'm a researcher since I like to buy once and enjoy a long time.

Annnddd last question...the one thing that irked me about the installer is he didn't put in a $10 delay...so the speakers pop when I turn the car off....this is part of what makes me want to let the installer do it, and this time insist on a delay being used (long story on why I didn't go back and have the delay installed the first time..a lot of life happened at same time...just wrote this issue off knowing I'd deal with it later). Anyway....is it hard to install a delay switch or whatever they're called? Any recommendations on a very reliable but cheap delay switch? Or...do most current amps include the delay nowadays? I'm still researching amps....leaning toward a Rockford I think..something around $200 is my goal, but with good clean power from a decent brand.

Oh...sorry...anyone know how much clearance under driver seat there is? The JL is roughly 2.5" high....but how high can you fit under there? The Pioneer amp I really like is I think like 5" or so? Way too high unfortunately, unless I pay to have the whole wiring thing re-done re-run not so re-fun.

Sorry to expand the topic, but I know this online crew knows ten times more than I do, just hoping to get all answers before I proceed.

Thanks guys sincerely,

Saved

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

And yes...there's an inline fuse.

Saved

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

I believe that the pop you are hearing is a result of the amp's capacitors remaining charged after the remote wire has already signaled for the amp to power down. It's a common problem. Sometimes it can be fixed by confirming the remote wire from the HU is connected properly. Otherwise, you can install either a switch to manually turn off the amp several seconds prior to turning off the radio. Found this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-a...circuit-2.html

The power wire wire specs should be included with your new amp. 4 ga is pretty beefy so you should be fine, but you should probably confirm.

With mounting, typically there are four tab like extensions on the corners of amps. In the past I have used self-drilling/tapping sheet metal screws with no issues.

If you have to remove the seat to install the new amp, you could always measure the clearance at that time. Space is definitely at a premium under there.

Good luck!

JMII

Just make sure you are not putting screws into anything under the car like gas or brake lines. Had a buddy make that mistake in an older Camaro

An easy way to avoid screwing into the car itself is to cut a piece of wood so it fits around the seat mounting points, then mount the amp directly to that piece of wood using small screws. Once you get the seat out you'll see how notching the wood to go around the rear seat bolt location will ensure the wood can't move after the seat is put back in. Cover the wood in black carpet and nobody will be the wiser.

My amp is wedged under the passenger side glove box and held in place with heavy duty double sided tape + velcro to a built up layer of dynamat I applied back there - can't use screws since that is where the gas tank is.

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Thanks tons you guys, I'll try it myself in a couple weeks I imagine...gotta pick out and order the amp first. If you hear a big explosion from the western U.S. You'll know I shoulda hired an installer.

Saved

Spike100

^^ Please let us know (post back to this thread) what external amp you selected and how the installation went. Pictures are great.

BTW: if you purchase the amp from a local installer, they might do the install at no charge if you pay the SRP for the amp.... just something to consider.

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Annnndddd just noticed your signature Spike....real quick...those B8 shocks....your thoughts?

I'll be needing shocks soon myself and those are on my list, currently on G35 shocks on SWIFT Spec R's and the ride quality is great....are those B8's a soft ride for the daily driving? I know they stiffen on turns per se, but it's the ride quality for daily driving I'm really interested in. I recently ruled out Koni Yellows as even on soft apparently they're a little stiffer than oem? Monotube of Billstein has me really curious though.

I'll keep everyone posted on my amp progress, about to do some online shopping right now actually. May even move the amp location if my options are too limited by amp height restrictions.

Thanks Spike,

Saved

Spike100

^^ The Bilsteins B8’s are very comfortable and I am very pleased with the ride and handling.

I went with Tein S-Tech Springs; they are OK, but there is a little more bounce than I like with these. I will probably swap them out for Swift Spec-R springs. I’m not sure, but that change may require adding suspension components for alignment.

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Go Spec-R's Spike ...100% recommendation...I've ridden on Tein's for months before swapping to the Swifts....much much much nicer ride and the porpoising is gone.

I'm on stock camber bits and am juuussttt outside specs, but...with Bilstein shocks I've heard the car rises back up 0.6 inches or so, which I think is going to put me just back into the zone where I can get aligned without a camber kit.

Tire wear has been fine on SS595s and Sumitomo HTR ZII's...a softer compound tire like a Ventus V12 and some toe error in the alignment will scrub the tire to shreds quickly though.

You could go Swifts for a while and get the camber kit later, if you even needed it, but odds are you truly won't need the kit, especially on the B8 Bilsteins since the car sits a wee higher on B8's than on oem shocks.

Saved

paledeth

How did you get the hertz to fit? I ordered a pair of Hertz HSK 165XL before thinking about the depth, now everything I read about them and the z tells me that I am sol, in regards to just dropping them in the factory spot. I considered getting pods from wicked cas but after my magic box experience with them, I'd rather not.

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Spacer, but I don't have the XLs, might be different. Or just have a shop put in your front speakers.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

If you have enouph wire or you end up needing to run new amp wire the space behind the driver's seat is a great spot for the amp. Their is a nice set of tabs hanging down that you can fabricate some little metal brackets that you can attach too wood that can then be the base for your amp. It will also be out of sight and still easily accessible. And their is a nice hole you can gromet and run your speaker wire hidden right to your under strut box... Thats what I did works like a champ except Its a pain moving my driver's seat forward to show people my hidden amp.this is the space im talking about this shows a box and sub in their that I would not recommend but too each their own

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Pictures from this threadhttps://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video/589242-downfiring-sub-vs-upfiring-sub-in-space-behind-stock-sub-area-jl10w3v3.html
http://https://my350z.com/forum/audi...-jl10w3v3.html

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

your link doesn't work...just FYI