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well i finally got all my components and i will start the install tomorrow. I have some things im not sure of tho. ill start with a list of what im working with.
Here's my system:
Headunit: JVC KW-AVX800 with iPod controll and bluetooth
Component Amp: Diamond Audio D3 400.2
Subwoofer Amp: Eclipse XA1000
Front Components: Diamond Audio D662s in nazar pods
Subwoofer: Diamond Audio D610 in zenclosure under strut box
Rockford Fosgate RFK4D power wiring and RCA's,
speaker wire (16awg for components, 12awg for sub)
metra dash kit
Now questions...
1. how do I wire my speakers into the amp to run them at 4ohms?
2. since there is only one remote turn on wire coming from the headunit do I just have to hook both amps to the one?
sorry for the blurry pic but do i just go from far left - to far right + and then the other in between? idk if it makes sense. i was just goin to do that and then fade the head unit to one side to figure out left from right.
I know that later on i will have more so ill ask as i go. thanks in advance for the help. cant wait to start!
Sorry dude I saw your post and started to reply but I didnt want to come off sounding mean but... if your asking those questions, you probably shouldn't be doing this yourself. The Z is not a hard install, its hard install to pull off correctly.
But not to be negative and seeing how this is a place to ask for help, keep asking questions if you get stuck. I'll help as much as possible.
As for above..
If you connect the speakers to the amp they will be running at 4 ohms: http://www.diamondaudio.com/content/view/79/83/ It's a 4 ohm amp that is capable of a lower ohm load, but if you connect a set of component speakers to that amp positive to positive negative to negative the amp will run at 4 ohms and give you 100 watts for each of the two speakers
And you can splice that remote on wire from the headunit to both amplifiers
__________________
Originally Posted by HraesvelgYou're ghey, you smell like Kimchi, and were probably that fat Korean kid who beat everyone at Street Fighter in the arcade.
4 ohms is simply speaker resistance. All auto amplifiers will safely run 4 ohms. You wire the speakers positive to positive - negative to negative.
If the pre-amplifier has a remote power on, then you must power on all amplifiers. NOTE: Does the amplifier have a power on OUT which you power on another amplifier?
I recommend that you make a simple drawing showing the wiring for all components. Keep it for future reference.
Also do a trial run with all components sitting in a convenient spot, and all wiring exposed. That way if you have any problems you will not have to troubleshoot wires that are buried.
Sorry dude I saw your post and started to reply but I didnt want to come off sounding mean but... if your asking those questions, you probably shouldn't be doing this yourself. The Z is not a hard install, its hard install to pull off correctly.
But not to be negative and seeing how this is a place to ask for help, keep asking questions if you get stuck. I'll help as much as possible.
As for above..
If you connect the speakers to the amp they will be running at 4 ohms: http://www.diamondaudio.com/content/view/79/83/ It's a 4 ohm amp that is capable of a lower ohm load, but if you connect a set of component speakers to that amp positive to positive negative to negative the amp will run at 4 ohms and give you 100 watts for each of the two speakers
And you can splice that remote on wire from the headunit to both amplifiers
you know usually i would get mad if someone told me i didnt know what i was doin and that i shouldnt do it myself. how is anyone goin to learn anything if they dont try? you dont even know who i am yet you automatically think i dont know what im doin. anyway its the internet so it a waste of time to fight with anyone in my opinion. i have done installs b4 but only amplified subs, ive never amplified speakers b4 so i didnt know. thanks for the help.
^^ I really like your tweeter install/position. It’s not really a “kick install,” but near where you would place the tweeter if you installed “kick pods." Your tweeter installation provides some advantages:
It allows the dead pedal on the driver side, and leaves the floor space totally available for the passenger’s right foot. In other words, your setup does not sacrifice comfort for function (sound in this case)
You don’t have any worry about a passenger scraping or driving the sole of their right shoe into a forwardly-placed kick pod on the car’s right-side floor corner.
The tweeters are distanced far enough from driver and passenger to allow easily balancing the directional sound from the tweeter component.
Your placement is an interesting solution that might be better than the usual installations I and others elect to use.
It would be interesting to hear what other members think about this position.
I wanted to mount my tweeters in the kicks, but I wanted to keep everything as stock looking as possible, so I mounted mine in the stock locations. I love how my speakers sound, but I am still playing around with getting the sound perfect.
Did you do any sound deadening yet? Nice install btw
I only put sound deadening behind the door pods. i dont really get any rattles. the only one is my rear license plate frame, and i cant even hear it only when i stand outside the car.
starting install soon. need some help
wow... no help. do i need to post 100 pics up so someone will help?
