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How to Properly Torque Rotor When No Room?

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Old 07-19-2014, 08:29 PM
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ChadS
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Default How to Properly Torque Rotor When No Room?

I'm just starting to do my own auto work, so this may be a very dumb question, and if so, apologies, but I'm not sure what to do and a search didn't turn anything up.

I just tried to replace my brake pads and rotors on my 2006 coupe 350z but couldn't torque the caliper bolts to the proper level because my 1/2in torque wrench was too long (18in or so). I looked online for shorter 1/2in torque wrenches but couldn't find any. I see that 3/8 torque wrenches come in shorter lengths, but usually these only go up to 80 ft-lbs while for the front calipers the bolts are supposed to be torqued to ~113 ft-lbs.

So my question is how are people torquing their front calipers to spec? Am I missing something here?

Thanks!
Old 07-19-2014, 09:05 PM
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guitman32
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Yes, your 1/2' torque wrench should work fine. Play with the angle, long/short sockets and the extensions in 1/2" if you need but dont use a 3/8' on the caliper bolts, they are pretty important.

Get your car higher off the ground if you need to.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:00 PM
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German spec, good-n-tite works fine for those bolts
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by guitman32
Yes, your 1/2' torque wrench should work fine. Play with the angle, long/short sockets and the extensions in 1/2" if you need but dont use a 3/8' on the caliper bolts, they are pretty important.

Get your car higher off the ground if you need to.
I agree with the use of different angles and 1/2" extensions to get your torque wrench to work on the caliper bolts.
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:11 AM
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92K1500
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
German spec, good-n-tite works fine for those bolts
Gutentite has worked well as a torque spec for me over the years.

But now with all the stuff made of plastic and aluminum it turns from gutentite to gutenstripped...
Old 07-20-2014, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 92K1500
Gutentite has worked well as a torque spec for me over the years.

But now with all the stuff made of plastic and aluminum it turns from gutentite to gutenstripped...
Being a professional mechanic I have a calibrated elbow. The only think I torque are lug nuts and engine internals.
Old 07-20-2014, 07:24 AM
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92K1500
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Being a professional mechanic I have a calibrated elbow. The only think I torque are lug nuts and engine internals.
Most things I do by feel, but if it's something important or I just have that gut feeling I'm going to break/strip it I grab the torque wrench.

Almost everything I do on bike/atv engines is torqued to spec. I should have used the torque wrench (if there is even a spec...) for the tail light on my new bike. I was just about to stop turning the 1/4" ratchet when the plastic snapped......
Old 07-20-2014, 07:42 AM
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KornerCarver
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I just used my impact wrench to loosen and tighten the bolts. That seemed to work just fine. I didn't worry about the torque specs.
Old 07-20-2014, 08:34 AM
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Torque wrenches are not designed to loosen bolts. And if you don't use torque specs on something as simple as tightening lug nuts, you're just asking for trouble.
Old 07-20-2014, 09:49 AM
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3hree5ive0ero
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I use a torque wrench for most things but never have for the caliper bolts. After a while, you kind of get an understanding of what needs to be done to spec and what isn't as necessary.


Just keep in mind that you can use ratchets/wrenches of different length to apply different amounts of torque if moderation isn't your forte. Plus, using extensions, elbows, etc can reduce the applied torque rating.
Old 07-20-2014, 10:59 AM
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Half a turn past the squeak is proper torque for any bolt.
Old 07-20-2014, 01:29 PM
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jtbinvalrico
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Those can be done with a 1/2" torque wrench. As said earlier, maybe you need to lift the car up a bit more. Another option would be to get one of these, allows you to use whatever wrench you want, and comes with socket adapters:

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...ter-68283.html

In some cases, sure, an experienced arm and a ratchet can approximate the proper tightness of a bolt. But if you're just starting out, all the more reason to use a torque wrench. Proper torque ensures that a) you won't overtighten, and b) you apply enough torque to allow the fastener to do what it was intended to do. Be careful about just blasting nuts and wheel lugs on with an impact wrench; most can readily hit 300 ft lbs or more, that's more than three times what you need for wheel lugs, and much more than is required for nearly every nut on the car.

Don't be intimidated by the high cost of some torque wrenches.....get some from Harbor Freight. They're inexpensive, highly reviewed, and perfectly fine unless you are going to be assembling an engine. I've got the smallest 1/4" wrench up to their largest 3/4" drive (which I use to set the spindle nut on my F150 at the spec'd torque of nearly 300 ft lbs).

You should be using a torque wrench regularly during your maintenance. In particular, the oil drain plug and wheel lugs have specific torque values.
Old 07-20-2014, 04:17 PM
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ChadS
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Thanks for all the feedback! I'll try again with more persistence and height and get the digital torque adapter if all else fails.
Old 07-20-2014, 09:08 PM
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soc_monki
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ive never used a torque wrench on caliper bolts. i honestly dont think anything in the brake assembly is aluminum, at least on a base model. not sure about models with Brembos. every car ive ever done brakes on i just tighten them down with german values and ive never had a brake fall apart. even lugs on my old Altima i never torqued...just wrenched them down as tight as i could. although i torque the lugs on my Z all the time now...guess ive gotten wise in my old age.

of course i didnt use a torque wrench when i did my valve cover gasket and everything came out fine there. just have to have a light touch
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