brake boosting a TT 350z.
If you can now brake boost your car, who really cares about cruise control. Its just an extra to me. I would be more excited about being able to brake boost, that I could accept no cruise control.
Originally Posted by bacalhau16
If you can now brake boost your car, who really cares about cruise control. Its just an extra to me. I would be more excited about being able to brake boost, that I could accept no cruise control.
I didnt test my CC, but mine doesnt work in 6th gear anyway due to the 3.3 FD. I NEVER use it, even on 11 hour long trips, may as well give me a pillow as it puts me to sleep. If your so into using CC, then dont run this set-up, I mean how much do you really plan on brake boosting? Im only using it for the big dogs...
My cruise control works with no issues. I talked to Dan last night about how to test the module to make sure it is actually working.
If the module isn't working the ECU will never see any brake signals and after a while of driving it will throw a code (something about no brake signal). The cruise control will be disabled as a safety (when you try to set it it will just flash). To fix this you need an OBDII reader (Autozone will read and clear codes for free if you don't have one). Once reset, the crusie control will work again for X amount of miles until it throws another code.
To verify that the module is actually working you can do it one of two ways. The easiest way is with a Cipher. With the Cipher connected you can monitor the brake signal. While monitoring, press and hold the brake pedal in and the Cipher display should show the brake signal changing states for about ~1 second, and then going back to the normal state. If the brake status never changes then the module either isn't installed correctly or is not working.
The 2nd way is to connect the + lead of a volt meter to the output of the module (orange wire) and the - lead to ground. Press and hold the brake pedal down and observe the voltage on the meter. It should jump to ~12vdc for about 1 second and then drop to 0vdc until the pedal is released and pressed again (at which point it will read 12vdc for one second).
You may be able to put the pink/blue wire back together by either soldering it back together or by installing a jumper from the purple wire to the orange wire and have it automatically reset the code when it gets the brake signal but I've never actually tried that, as I have both a Cipher and an OBDII reader close by at all times.
If the module isn't working the ECU will never see any brake signals and after a while of driving it will throw a code (something about no brake signal). The cruise control will be disabled as a safety (when you try to set it it will just flash). To fix this you need an OBDII reader (Autozone will read and clear codes for free if you don't have one). Once reset, the crusie control will work again for X amount of miles until it throws another code.
To verify that the module is actually working you can do it one of two ways. The easiest way is with a Cipher. With the Cipher connected you can monitor the brake signal. While monitoring, press and hold the brake pedal in and the Cipher display should show the brake signal changing states for about ~1 second, and then going back to the normal state. If the brake status never changes then the module either isn't installed correctly or is not working.
The 2nd way is to connect the + lead of a volt meter to the output of the module (orange wire) and the - lead to ground. Press and hold the brake pedal down and observe the voltage on the meter. It should jump to ~12vdc for about 1 second and then drop to 0vdc until the pedal is released and pressed again (at which point it will read 12vdc for one second).
You may be able to put the pink/blue wire back together by either soldering it back together or by installing a jumper from the purple wire to the orange wire and have it automatically reset the code when it gets the brake signal but I've never actually tried that, as I have both a Cipher and an OBDII reader close by at all times.
Originally Posted by AboostedG
I sure hope I don't have warranty issues if I go to the Dealership to get a scan. .
Originally Posted by Alberto
4th gear lol...maybe not that fast but I was climbing in speed for sure.
You almost had me there
Do you mind doing some brake boosting on first at low speed? I just need to know if this will actually preload the engine at 5-10MPH if possible
. Rear-Mount Turbo Suck when being turned off for a long time
Originally Posted by athenG
You almost had me there
Do you mind doing some brake boosting on first at low speed? I just need to know if this will actually preload the engine at 5-10MPH if possible
. Rear-Mount Turbo Suck when being turned off for a long time
All I need is about 2lbs of boost and the turbo is going to be ok after that.
Do you mind doing some brake boosting on first at low speed? I just need to know if this will actually preload the engine at 5-10MPH if possible
. Rear-Mount Turbo Suck when being turned off for a long time
Kevin,
If the brake pedal is released, does your module immediately cancel the output signal? Or does it still output a signal for a brief period?
If your module is "ON" and the ASCD (from cruise) is "ON" at the same time above 19 mph, then there is a DTC condition that will activate (DTC P1572 ASCD BRAKE SWITCH; will not light CEL).
Perhaps this is causing the issue.
Other quick question for people having trouble with cruise: are you both 5AT?
If the brake pedal is released, does your module immediately cancel the output signal? Or does it still output a signal for a brief period?
If your module is "ON" and the ASCD (from cruise) is "ON" at the same time above 19 mph, then there is a DTC condition that will activate (DTC P1572 ASCD BRAKE SWITCH; will not light CEL).
Perhaps this is causing the issue.
Other quick question for people having trouble with cruise: are you both 5AT?
Originally Posted by rcdash
Kevin,
If the brake pedal is released, does your module immediately cancel the output signal? Or does it still output a signal for a brief period?
If your module is "ON" and the ASCD (from cruise) is "ON" at the same time above 19 mph, then there is a DTC condition that will activate (DTC P1572 ASCD BRAKE SWITCH; will not light CEL).
Perhaps this is causing the issue.
Other quick question for people having trouble with cruise: are you both 5AT?
If the brake pedal is released, does your module immediately cancel the output signal? Or does it still output a signal for a brief period?
If your module is "ON" and the ASCD (from cruise) is "ON" at the same time above 19 mph, then there is a DTC condition that will activate (DTC P1572 ASCD BRAKE SWITCH; will not light CEL).
Perhaps this is causing the issue.
Other quick question for people having trouble with cruise: are you both 5AT?
Sounds like the ECU tracks the stop lamp relay and ASCD brake relay, which should always be opposite of each other (when one is on, the other is off). Maybe the module needs to control both of these...
(just guessing cause I don't have a module and I don't even have my car but I do have a service manual
)
(just guessing cause I don't have a module and I don't even have my car but I do have a service manual
all i know is that i want my cruise control back since i use it pretty much every day. the only purpose for this module for me is to do a burnout at the track since im not boosted.
Originally Posted by sflg35
all i know is that i want my cruise control back since i use it pretty much every day. the only purpose for this module for me is to do a burnout at the track since im not boosted.
Originally Posted by rcdash
Sounds like the ECU tracks the stop lamp relay and ASCD brake relay, which should always be opposite of each other (when one is on, the other is off). Maybe the module needs to control both of these...
(just guessing cause I don't have a module and I don't even have my car but I do have a service manual
)
(just guessing cause I don't have a module and I don't even have my car but I do have a service manual
Like I said before, I've had this module in my car since before ZdayZ and I've never had any CC problems, and I use my CC everytime I drive the car. It is possible ECUs from different years behave differently, and this is why we test these modules before selling them through our website.
Dan, did you verify you are getting the correct output from the module like we discussed on the phone last night?
Originally Posted by KPierson
If the pedal is released before the 1S timeout the modules output will shut off immediately. So, if you push the pedal for 1/2s then the module will only output a 1/2 second signal.
Weird.
EDIT: The symptoms AboostedG and SFLG have reported appear to be different though in both cases the cruise is cancelled (one gets the fast blink SET light, one doesn't - like it's just being cancelled)
Last edited by rcdash; Aug 2, 2007 at 12:24 PM.
Originally Posted by KPierson
Yes, I don't think they are having the same problem. SFLG35 will have access to a Cipher later tonight to give feedback.
Dan pointed me to this thread... I have the Cipher... We just need to monitor Brake Pedal Switch 2 like you did in the video, right?
Originally Posted by sflg35
all i know is that i want my cruise control back since i use it pretty much every day. the only purpose for this module for me is to do a burnout at the track since im not boosted.
Ya, then why did you buy this. You couldve saved yourself a couple bucks.
lol thats what i do. i test anything and everything for kevin. ive had this module sitting on my desk since like page 2 of this thread, just been too busy to install it.
ill have more exciting info to post when i get back up in a few hours for now its bed time
ill have more exciting info to post when i get back up in a few hours for now its bed time
I have the 3.3 FD so my CC doesnt work in 6th gear, but it does work in 5th gear. I tested it again last night and my cruise control still works fine. Dont know why some guys are having issues, mine is an 03' and is good to go...



