It's the ISR not the z1.
And thanks but I have an oem style one with only 10k on it. (I know you were kidding. Lol)
But damn man the vibration and cabin noise is almost shocking. Lol. I'm gonna use it through my May 26 track day and if I haven't gotten accustomed to it by them it's coming out.

If I run poly diff bushings is it going to produce the same effect?

 

No the diff bushings and subframe bushings didnt really add much vibration... It did cause a bit of a noticeable noise when I let off the gas and im still in gear but nothing horrible by any stretch...

If your still on stock bushings its worth the hundred bucks and aggravation for the differential... If you dont have a lift or lots of motivation the subframe bushings could be a pain...

The wheel hop on my car went from violent to non existent, they really stiffened up the rear very well.

 

Cool. I'm definitely doing it myself although I'll need to order a press.

That doesn't sound like too much noise. This poly trans bushing is gonna take some getting used to.

Diff I will either get z1 or whiteline. Haven't decided yet.

 

Just Bought a Uprev GT MAF sensor for 350 bones, and about to pay 928Motorsports less than 200 bucks for replacing my Vortech supercharger seals.

 

No press needed, just some drill bits and a hack saw or sawzall.. I went with whiteline buy i wouldn't guess much difference between the them.

Just drove to the dealership I dont know if I should be happy or not but I think my 13 year old Nissan was probably one of the best looking cars their IMHO




Should be good for a while.

 

Did they have a 17 Nismo?
I sat in one at the Denver auto show....... I need one. Lol. But I'm looking at a few 15's. Couple years. Couple years.



And thanks for the heads up about the press.

 

Get one of these:

http://www.fumotousa.com/results.php...350Z++3.5L++V6

I've had one on my Z for maybe 5 years, and it's been leak-free and it makes changing the oil a breeze. Will be doing it in just about an hour, or so.

 

Got coolant flush done today (with 12 oz Redline water wetter coolant). Trans. fluid (Redline MT90 full synth.) + power steering flushed recently, glad to have those things done and new.

 

They didn't have any Z's for sale at that dealer...

I changed the oil, and did some other stuff.. It wasn't fun but I'm glad it's done.





Removed idler pulley put in new Z1 crank pully, replaced belts... Hopefully car makes it to Costco...

Getting that crank bolt off was a difficult task.

Probably wasnt the best way to hold it but it worked.



I tried to clean up my oem one clean but it was not working out well.

 

Ok so I got 04 350z & just added a jwt popcharger,kentix hi flow cats, and HKS Hi Power exhaust. I'll try to get pix up later. I still plan to add a plenum spacer maybe headers (you guys thinks it's worth the hassle?) also...anyone have any other suggestions before I try to get it tunned?

 

You will be lean, but do everything you want to do before tuning it

 

Btw, imho, shorty headers are a waste of time..... long tubes are only thing really shown to give gains

 

That's pretty much true but, OP, take into consideration how the car is used (that's something that's never mentioned in threads involving the generic "how do I build power?" question.)

GENERALLY speaking, shorty headers help to increase power in the low rpm range up through the mid, whereas a set of long tubes help in the mid-to-higher range.

And this is what leads to what Trav said about "gains". No one looks at the dyno charts from 1000-4000, where's the fun in that? Everyone's eyes immediately go the highest point of the graph and that's the number that gets quoted in every post on power gains. Hahahahaha.

But if you drive mostly street/hills/highway, you need to look at the curve on a whole, stacked next to the baseline run. That low-mid section of the curve needs to be pretty fat if most of your running is in this range.

Just additional food for thought.

Personally, I don't find headers appealing at all. EVERY damn set I've ever run from my hot rods to Europeans to Zs have given me some sort of trouble one way or other. Hence, not worth the effort for the minimal gains, IMO.

A track oriented beast, well, that's different.

EDIT: As if to underscore what I just said, the very next post I read was this one:

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...issue-wtf.html

BTDT...

 

Getting ready for ZdayZ 2017. Camber arms, alignment and PSS. Z1 camber arms done by mice elf, easy peasy.
(Thinks Motordyne TDX2 and retune next up)

 

Headers are soooooooo worth the hassle..... Plus its really fun and easy.. If you have all the tools and know how it probably will only take a few hours...

It only took me like 3 days spread out over a couple weeks... Look at the last few pages.

 

John how was removing the stock non adjustable camber arm? I have adjustable ones sitting in my basement but last time I ripped apart a subframe that bolt had become one with the bushing on both sides.

I need a tune, im a procrastinator.

 

they are pretty easy honestly, worst case get your old trusty reciprocating saw and cut bolt heads off, knock out, replace nut and bolt

 

They are actually being used to hold the subframe up like a kickstand... I ripped apart the G35s rear suspension and that was the only non comparative part.

Ooooo not really what I did for my Z but I got rid of all this stuff over the weekend...



Total G35 investment only $400 now.

And I sent Craig some stock manifolds because I didn't think I needed 2 sets of ugly stock manifolds.

 

 

OH NO!...