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Got to 99% completion of my Z1 motor mount install. By far the biggest pain in the ***, but I did it without removing the engine or even touching the subframe or k brace so that was to be expected lol
Last edited by 813_350Z; Jan 11, 2020 at 09:17 AM.
Got to 99% completion of my Z1 motor mount install. By far the biggest pain in the ***, but I did it with removing the engine or even touching the subframe or k brace so that was to be expected lol
Today, I get another ticket. Well this one is for a no-front plate ticket, I finally get hit for this. I would like to pay, but the fine prints states that I must correct this. Thus, I turn to you, does anyone have a bracket adapter to tow for sale? I have the Nismo N-3R. I would like to buy or borrow it please.
OR if that's too much trouble, I'd like to borrow (pay to rent) someones' front bumper to slap my plate on. It can be any color, any condition. I'm in Ontario, SoCal.
Meanwhile, I still haven't had the brake calipers repaired since a month ago. My friend had tried the "Easyout" method and it ended terribly by breaking off and now plugging up my bleeder screws. I'm disappointed to say the least. Anyone with machine shop friends who would not charge too much?
Dang man, someone must have used red Loctite on it, or it just heat-welded. That is going to be a PITA. For the front plate holder a lot of folks just use zip-ties. If you want it to be pretty here you go bro-
i had the stillen one.... screws into tow hook hole. get a ticket, go to court with license plate attached, pay $10 dismissal, take it back off in parking lot
I drove my car to Hartford yesterday does that count?
As far as creative front plate options go, I know a guy who had some made in wrap, pretty sure he just cuts them the and sticks them on and hasn't had any issues.
i had the stillen one.... screws into tow hook hole. get a ticket, go to court with license plate attached, pay $10 dismissal, take it back off in parking lot
I was looking into this, but from what I've read it doesn't clear the longer nose (Nismo variant front bumper), only the OEM bumper.
I would have to find someone to fabricate a longer tow screw-in piece to clear the nose. I would do the zip-tie method, but I was under the impression the police would like to see bolts/screws and have it nicely fixated, no play.
@jhc I'm really bummed about the brakes haha, I read you can install them by bleeding the air with the brake lines in a cup of brake fluids, and topping off the caliper with brake fluid upright, then quickly connect the two together so no air enters in the system. What do you reckon I should do? Do this, and hopefully never have to bleed he brake for another 3 years, or pay out the *** and get it die, retapped, and rebuild to clean up the metal shaving for $500 a caliper?
I was looking into this, but from what I've read it doesn't clear the longer nose (Nismo variant front bumper), only the OEM bumper.
I would have to find someone to fabricate a longer tow screw-in piece to clear the nose. I would do the zip-tie method, but I was under the impression the police would like to see bolts/screws and have it nicely fixated, no play.
@jhc I'm really bummed about the brakes haha, I read you can install them by bleeding the air with the brake lines in a cup of brake fluids, and topping off the caliper with brake fluid upright, then quickly connect the two together so no air enters in the system. What do you reckon I should do? Do this, and hopefully never have to bleed he brake for another 3 years, or pay out the *** and get it die, retapped, and rebuild to clean up the metal shaving for $500 a caliper?
Ha, like your new Avi lol.
So I have some ideas if you'll indulge me-
The front plate is an easy fix (if you have your original tow-hook). Temporarily install it on your car. Measure how much more length you need. Run down to Ace Hardware with your tow hook for thread size. Buy a headless bolt with correct length and threads, buy an appropriate coupler with set screws to mate the bolt and tow hook. Yes?
The caliper isn't so easy, the thing is I don't know what grade steel your "Easy Out" that broke was. Should be simple to extract with Vice-Grips (clock-wise) so you can try again with a top-shelf brand. (These things are usually harder than a Preacher's dick). You did punch then drill a pilot-hole, correct? Depending on your mood and budget it may be best to source another banjo bleeder and take everything to a machine shop with great reviews. If it were me, I'd actually interview the tech with the parts, the tech who quickly understands the task gets the work. Good Luck Bro!
replaced the two idler pulleys at the front of the engine (AC and Alternator) and added new belts.
On the commute home Friday, in stop and go traffic jam at the bend off of the Howard Franklin (in St Pete) I hear this helatiatious sound, as I was passing a construction crane working at the time I thought it was them until they turned to look at my car...as I drove past the sound didn't disappear. Stopped on the side of the road opened the hood and was blasted by this noise...I immediately figured it was either the ac clutch pulley or the idler pulleys.
Risked it and drove home without a/c to relieve some of the pressure on the bearing.
The next day, using my car stethoscope I pinpointed the noise from the a/c compressor's pulley , but went ahead and changed the idler pulleys as they have 190K miles on them. I verified that there was excessive noise and vibration from the a/c clutch when there was no belt on it.
I may have tightened the belts too much as the a/c clutch is not screaming anymore...will loosen the belt tomorrow so the mech can hear the screaming bearing, and do the a/c clutch on monday.
replaced the two idler pulleys at the front of the engine (AC and Alternator) and added new belts.
On the commute home Friday, in stop and go traffic jam at the bend off of the Howard Franklin (in St Pete) I hear this helatiatious sound, as I was passing a construction crane working at the time I thought it was them until they turned to look at my car...as I drove past the sound didn't disappear. Stopped on the side of the road opened the hood and was blasted by this noise...I immediately figured it was either the ac clutch pulley or the idler pulleys.
Risked it and drove home without a/c to relieve some of the pressure on the bearing.
The next day, using my car stethoscope I pinpointed the noise from the a/c compressor's pulley , but went ahead and changed the idler pulleys as they have 190K miles on them. I verified that there was excessive noise and vibration from the a/c clutch when there was no belt on it.
I may have tightened the belts too much as the a/c clutch is not screaming anymore...will loosen the belt tomorrow so the mech can hear the screaming bearing, and do the a/c clutch on monday.
Bought a Nike Duffle bag, put all my detailer in for car washes, leave it in truck of Z. Brilliant! Absolutely brilliant! ha
So, I bought another AMG brake caliper, swap over adapter, all the bleeder screw are good! Back in business, I will be installing them again on my Z soon. Just need to replace one bleeder screw as its stripped, but I got it out. Went to the Mercedes dealer, and they didn't have the item in stock. Any idea what site is good? Rock Auto doesn't seem to be selling anymore I'd check.
Also will be cleaning up the calipers tonight. I did get my front license plate ticket signed off, zip ties passed me in SoCal. Good grief.
Last edited by zwei_the_c; Jan 23, 2020 at 02:42 PM.
Dropped off and Picked it up the car at the MEchanic to install my new A/C compressor (with new clutch and pulley) from Amazon.
Mech called on Monday and said to buy the a/c compressor from their parts place AND get their warranty I would have to buy condenser, dryer and compressor to the tune of $1100.
He suggested getting a compressor from amazon, and he'd install it.
Compressor with tax $225
a/c recharge $50
labor $160
Nice and quite now. Sorry northerner...we needed A/C in florida today
