Interior/Exterior
12-22-2019, 04:47 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Interior/Exterior
Hello,
Before I start, I'd like to say I'm posting this just for some help and actual clarification. I'm wanting to make sure these parts will fit before actually making the purchase. The main reason I'm here is that I'd like to ask some 350z veterans for their input.
It's me again! I was looking for some input.
So, I'm looking to get some rims, seats, and coil-overs. What I had in mind is below!
Would these rims make a good fit and will leave very little space so they actually look good? I believe the term is called flush/flushed.
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...gen-225-40zr18
As for the seats, Would these seats be sufficent? I've heard they're a good brand to buy from, if anyone has somewhere else, please let me know! (The seat warmers won't be able to be transferred but they don't do much anyways.)
https://www.braumracing.com/product/...k-piping-pair/
Would these seats be a good fit? If this isn't a good brand, Let me know!
Lastly, These are the coil overs. Not very experienced in this type of thing but I know it lets you adjust your suspension!
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/st...Z&trim=Touring
I'm really into cars, the issue is my knowledge with them. I'm trying to get better with this type of stuff but I only will if I learn it from people who know what they're doing.
Thanks!
Before I start, I'd like to say I'm posting this just for some help and actual clarification. I'm wanting to make sure these parts will fit before actually making the purchase. The main reason I'm here is that I'd like to ask some 350z veterans for their input.
It's me again! I was looking for some input.
So, I'm looking to get some rims, seats, and coil-overs. What I had in mind is below!
Would these rims make a good fit and will leave very little space so they actually look good? I believe the term is called flush/flushed.
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...gen-225-40zr18
As for the seats, Would these seats be sufficent? I've heard they're a good brand to buy from, if anyone has somewhere else, please let me know! (The seat warmers won't be able to be transferred but they don't do much anyways.)
https://www.braumracing.com/product/...k-piping-pair/
Would these seats be a good fit? If this isn't a good brand, Let me know!
Lastly, These are the coil overs. Not very experienced in this type of thing but I know it lets you adjust your suspension!
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/st...Z&trim=Touring
I'm really into cars, the issue is my knowledge with them. I'm trying to get better with this type of stuff but I only will if I learn it from people who know what they're doing.
Thanks!
12-22-2019, 05:31 AM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
12-22-2019, 05:45 AM
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
12-22-2019, 07:53 AM
#6
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Beyond the wheels, a couple of comments on seats and suspension. First, putting a racing type seat in your Z will make getting in and out more difficult. It'll also interfere with the use of your OEM seatbelts and if you replace those with a racing harness, you'll have a problem properly mounting them, and have a warning light on the dash constantly. With your lack of automotive knowledge at this point in your life, having the OEM seat reupholstered may be a better idea.
As for the Tein coilover kit, the link you posted only shows the front suspension. So expect to pay more for the rears, if they offer a separate kit. You haven't mentioned how many miles are on your Z, but if you're simply replacing some worn out shocks, a much better option is to go with proven dampers from Bilstein or Koni. As far as adjustment goes, coilovers will allow you to adjust the ride height of your Z, but whenever you do this, it'll also affect critical settings like camber and toe. The Z is extremely sensitive to this and you'll need a new four wheel alignment each time you adjust them. Spend the money ONCE to have your suspension adjusted once you put on a set of spring and shocks you like. Your tires will wear more evenly, and will drive better all around.
It's your money- but spend it wisely...
As for the Tein coilover kit, the link you posted only shows the front suspension. So expect to pay more for the rears, if they offer a separate kit. You haven't mentioned how many miles are on your Z, but if you're simply replacing some worn out shocks, a much better option is to go with proven dampers from Bilstein or Koni. As far as adjustment goes, coilovers will allow you to adjust the ride height of your Z, but whenever you do this, it'll also affect critical settings like camber and toe. The Z is extremely sensitive to this and you'll need a new four wheel alignment each time you adjust them. Spend the money ONCE to have your suspension adjusted once you put on a set of spring and shocks you like. Your tires will wear more evenly, and will drive better all around.
It's your money- but spend it wisely...
Last edited by dkmura; 12-22-2019 at 07:54 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by dkmura:
12-22-2019, 08:37 AM
#7
New Member
Take a look at Corbeau RRBs also. Unless you like that much red, the RRBs are the same style (full side bolsters, but still reclinable like the Braum) and have the option for full black full black with red, white, or black diamond stitching. Same price and I have heard more positive reviews for Corbeau than Braum.
Don't forget to factor in that you may need new seat brackets too depending which route you take.
Don't forget to factor in that you may need new seat brackets too depending which route you take.
The following users liked this post:
Spike100 (12-23-2019)
Trending Topics
12-22-2019, 08:57 AM
#8
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Wheels...
That outfit makes videos that for the most part are decent but seem to be marketing (justifying) for their lines of cheap copy wheels, e.g., XXR, ESR, etc. I’m not dissing on cheap wheels as I “tested” a set a while back and they were fine for the most part. However, did not test them in extreme use (racing) and the all important “What happens if I twang a curb at speed? Break or bend?”
Also note that no wheel weight is listed. That’s because they’re probably not too light. Sometimes these gravity cast wheels weigh MORE than OE and offer little performance gain.
Finally, when their “automated” fitment on their site makes such an egregious mistake by suggesting a tire over an inch too small, well, doesn’t inspire much confidence in them ss a vendor....
Comment re: coil-overs.... ask yourself this question and answer yourself honestly; “Why do I want coilovers?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
If you think you want “adjustability”, ask yourself “Do I know the difference between jounce and rebound and how to balance them?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
Coilovers have a place. In the right hands, properly adjusted, and for specific reasons to correct issues beyond static suspension. NOT because everyone on Instagram says you need them.
That outfit makes videos that for the most part are decent but seem to be marketing (justifying) for their lines of cheap copy wheels, e.g., XXR, ESR, etc. I’m not dissing on cheap wheels as I “tested” a set a while back and they were fine for the most part. However, did not test them in extreme use (racing) and the all important “What happens if I twang a curb at speed? Break or bend?”
Also note that no wheel weight is listed. That’s because they’re probably not too light. Sometimes these gravity cast wheels weigh MORE than OE and offer little performance gain.
Finally, when their “automated” fitment on their site makes such an egregious mistake by suggesting a tire over an inch too small, well, doesn’t inspire much confidence in them ss a vendor....
Comment re: coil-overs.... ask yourself this question and answer yourself honestly; “Why do I want coilovers?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
If you think you want “adjustability”, ask yourself “Do I know the difference between jounce and rebound and how to balance them?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
Coilovers have a place. In the right hands, properly adjusted, and for specific reasons to correct issues beyond static suspension. NOT because everyone on Instagram says you need them.
Last edited by MicVelo; 12-22-2019 at 09:21 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Spike100 (12-22-2019)
12-22-2019, 04:37 PM
#9
New Member
Thread Starter
Wheels...
That outfit makes videos that for the most part are decent but seem to be marketing (justifying) for their lines of cheap copy wheels, e.g., XXR, ESR, etc. I’m not dissing on cheap wheels as I “tested” a set a while back and they were fine for the most part. However, did not test them in extreme use (racing) and the all important “What happens if I twang a curb at speed? Break or bend?”
Also note that no wheel weight is listed. That’s because they’re probably not too light. Sometimes these gravity cast wheels weigh MORE than OE and offer little performance gain.
Finally, when their “automated” fitment on their site makes such an egregious mistake by suggesting a tire over an inch too small, well, doesn’t inspire much confidence in them ss a vendor....
Comment re: coil-overs.... ask yourself this question and answer yourself honestly; “Why do I want coilovers?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
If you think you want “adjustability”, ask yourself “Do I know the difference between jounce and rebound and how to balance them?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
Coilovers have a place. In the right hands, properly adjusted, and for specific reasons to correct issues beyond static suspension. NOT because everyone on Instagram says you need them.
That outfit makes videos that for the most part are decent but seem to be marketing (justifying) for their lines of cheap copy wheels, e.g., XXR, ESR, etc. I’m not dissing on cheap wheels as I “tested” a set a while back and they were fine for the most part. However, did not test them in extreme use (racing) and the all important “What happens if I twang a curb at speed? Break or bend?”
Also note that no wheel weight is listed. That’s because they’re probably not too light. Sometimes these gravity cast wheels weigh MORE than OE and offer little performance gain.
Finally, when their “automated” fitment on their site makes such an egregious mistake by suggesting a tire over an inch too small, well, doesn’t inspire much confidence in them ss a vendor....
Comment re: coil-overs.... ask yourself this question and answer yourself honestly; “Why do I want coilovers?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
If you think you want “adjustability”, ask yourself “Do I know the difference between jounce and rebound and how to balance them?”
If you don’t know, you don’t need them.
Coilovers have a place. In the right hands, properly adjusted, and for specific reasons to correct issues beyond static suspension. NOT because everyone on Instagram says you need them.
Take a look at Corbeau RRBs also. Unless you like that much red, the RRBs are the same style (full side bolsters, but still reclinable like the Braum) and have the option for full black full black with red, white, or black diamond stitching. Same price and I have heard more positive reviews for Corbeau than Braum.
Don't forget to factor in that you may need new seat brackets too depending which route you take.
Don't forget to factor in that you may need new seat brackets too depending which route you take.
Beyond the wheels, a couple of comments on seats and suspension. First, putting a racing type seat in your Z will make getting in and out more difficult. It'll also interfere with the use of your OEM seatbelts and if you replace those with a racing harness, you'll have a problem properly mounting them, and have a warning light on the dash constantly. With your lack of automotive knowledge at this point in your life, having the OEM seat reupholstered may be a better idea.
As for the Tein coilover kit, the link you posted only shows the front suspension. So expect to pay more for the rears, if they offer a separate kit. You haven't mentioned how many miles are on your Z, but if you're simply replacing some worn out shocks, a much better option is to go with proven dampers from Bilstein or Koni. As far as adjustment goes, coilovers will allow you to adjust the ride height of your Z, but whenever you do this, it'll also affect critical settings like camber and toe. The Z is extremely sensitive to this and you'll need a new four wheel alignment each time you adjust them. Spend the money ONCE to have your suspension adjusted once you put on a set of spring and shocks you like. Your tires will wear more evenly, and will drive better all around.
It's your money- but spend it wisely...
As for the Tein coilover kit, the link you posted only shows the front suspension. So expect to pay more for the rears, if they offer a separate kit. You haven't mentioned how many miles are on your Z, but if you're simply replacing some worn out shocks, a much better option is to go with proven dampers from Bilstein or Koni. As far as adjustment goes, coilovers will allow you to adjust the ride height of your Z, but whenever you do this, it'll also affect critical settings like camber and toe. The Z is extremely sensitive to this and you'll need a new four wheel alignment each time you adjust them. Spend the money ONCE to have your suspension adjusted once you put on a set of spring and shocks you like. Your tires will wear more evenly, and will drive better all around.
It's your money- but spend it wisely...
Thank you for the reply. I'll go ahead and just fix up the OEM seats rather than go through the hassle of getting aftermarket seats and worry about them not fitting. As for the coil over set, What would you suggest? Should I just go with lowering springs? Not only will they be cheaper but I can just buy 4 of them rather than having coil overs and have to worry about re-doing the height and re-alining them.
As for wheels, Would you happen to suggest some? I'd like some wheels like that if possible. I've been searching around but really can't find a good fit because the weight distribution which is still a bit confusing.
Again,
Thank you for the comments and feedback. I will take it into account!
12-22-2019, 08:08 PM
#10
I'm not gonna lecture you on what to buy, but I'll try to give you some insight.
I would not put Braum on my car if they were free, at minimum go for Corbeau like the other guy suggested. Look into mounts, I didn't and it cost me, the cliff notes version: good mounts won't sit flush to each other or they will be high, I chose high as I'd rather sit on a grill than have uneven seats. Seats are worth it IMHO tho.
For wheels get something good, RPF1s are relatively cheap and will be much more solid than a knockoff.
while Tein is a decent brand if I were to ever get coil overs it would have to be KW or Beilstein.
Lastly since you don't know much about cars go to youtube and look at the current series called hi/low, they are working on 2 350Zs one with cheap parts and other with high end stuff. That will give you some insight before buying anything.
I would not put Braum on my car if they were free, at minimum go for Corbeau like the other guy suggested. Look into mounts, I didn't and it cost me, the cliff notes version: good mounts won't sit flush to each other or they will be high, I chose high as I'd rather sit on a grill than have uneven seats. Seats are worth it IMHO tho.
For wheels get something good, RPF1s are relatively cheap and will be much more solid than a knockoff.
while Tein is a decent brand if I were to ever get coil overs it would have to be KW or Beilstein.
Lastly since you don't know much about cars go to youtube and look at the current series called hi/low, they are working on 2 350Zs one with cheap parts and other with high end stuff. That will give you some insight before buying anything.
Last edited by DarkZ03; 12-22-2019 at 08:11 PM.
12-22-2019, 08:26 PM
#11
Hello,
Before I start, I'd like to say I'm posting this just for some help and actual clarification. I'm wanting to make sure these parts will fit before actually making the purchase. The main reason I'm here is that I'd like to ask some 350z veterans for their input.
It's me again! I was looking for some input.
So, I'm looking to get some rims, seats, and coil-overs. What I had in mind is below!
Would these rims make a good fit and will leave very little space so they actually look good? I believe the term is called flush/flushed.
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...gen-225-40zr18
As for the seats, Would these seats be sufficent? I've heard they're a good brand to buy from, if anyone has somewhere else, please let me know! (The seat warmers won't be able to be transferred but they don't do much anyways.)
https://www.braumracing.com/product/...k-piping-pair/
Would these seats be a good fit? If this isn't a good brand, Let me know!
Lastly, These are the coil overs. Not very experienced in this type of thing but I know it lets you adjust your suspension!
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/st...Z&trim=Touring
I'm really into cars, the issue is my knowledge with them. I'm trying to get better with this type of stuff but I only will if I learn it from people who know what they're doing.
Thanks!
Before I start, I'd like to say I'm posting this just for some help and actual clarification. I'm wanting to make sure these parts will fit before actually making the purchase. The main reason I'm here is that I'd like to ask some 350z veterans for their input.
It's me again! I was looking for some input.
So, I'm looking to get some rims, seats, and coil-overs. What I had in mind is below!
Would these rims make a good fit and will leave very little space so they actually look good? I believe the term is called flush/flushed.
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...gen-225-40zr18
As for the seats, Would these seats be sufficent? I've heard they're a good brand to buy from, if anyone has somewhere else, please let me know! (The seat warmers won't be able to be transferred but they don't do much anyways.)
https://www.braumracing.com/product/...k-piping-pair/
Would these seats be a good fit? If this isn't a good brand, Let me know!
Lastly, These are the coil overs. Not very experienced in this type of thing but I know it lets you adjust your suspension!
https://www.fitmentindustries.com/st...Z&trim=Touring
I'm really into cars, the issue is my knowledge with them. I'm trying to get better with this type of stuff but I only will if I learn it from people who know what they're doing.
Thanks!
Before anyone try to flame you...
First things first.
What is your goal with the car? Daily, drift, track, sunday cruise... (?)
For what I got to see on your selection, you hot hooked on the Fitment Industries youtube channel, and are looking for a big time bang for the buck, or penny if you will.
Wich is awesome!, but I am trying to figure it out what is your goal.
On upgrades, overall, I will suggest to save the money and get the best parts, instead to go too cheap.
But....it is your car, your money and your taste.
The following users liked this post:
MicVelo (12-28-2019)
12-23-2019, 02:50 AM
#12
New Member
Thread Starter
I'm not gonna lecture you on what to buy, but I'll try to give you some insight.
I would not put Braum on my car if they were free, at minimum go for Corbeau like the other guy suggested. Look into mounts, I didn't and it cost me, the cliff notes version: good mounts won't sit flush to each other or they will be high, I chose high as I'd rather sit on a grill than have uneven seats. Seats are worth it IMHO tho.
For wheels get something good, RPF1s are relatively cheap and will be much more solid than a knockoff.
while Tein is a decent brand if I were to ever get coil overs it would have to be KW or Beilstein.
Lastly since you don't know much about cars go to youtube and look at the current series called hi/low, they are working on 2 350Zs one with cheap parts and other with high end stuff. That will give you some insight before buying anything.
I would not put Braum on my car if they were free, at minimum go for Corbeau like the other guy suggested. Look into mounts, I didn't and it cost me, the cliff notes version: good mounts won't sit flush to each other or they will be high, I chose high as I'd rather sit on a grill than have uneven seats. Seats are worth it IMHO tho.
For wheels get something good, RPF1s are relatively cheap and will be much more solid than a knockoff.
while Tein is a decent brand if I were to ever get coil overs it would have to be KW or Beilstein.
Lastly since you don't know much about cars go to youtube and look at the current series called hi/low, they are working on 2 350Zs one with cheap parts and other with high end stuff. That will give you some insight before buying anything.
Ok...
Before anyone try to flame you...
First things first.
What is your goal with the car? Daily, drift, track, sunday cruise... (?)
For what I got to see on your selection, you hot hooked on the Fitment Industries youtube channel, and are looking for a big time bang for the buck, or penny if you will.
Wich is awesome!, but I am trying to figure it out what is your goal.
On upgrades, overall, I will suggest to save the money and get the best parts, instead to go too cheap.
But....it is your car, your money and your taste.
Before anyone try to flame you...
First things first.
What is your goal with the car? Daily, drift, track, sunday cruise... (?)
For what I got to see on your selection, you hot hooked on the Fitment Industries youtube channel, and are looking for a big time bang for the buck, or penny if you will.
Wich is awesome!, but I am trying to figure it out what is your goal.
On upgrades, overall, I will suggest to save the money and get the best parts, instead to go too cheap.
But....it is your car, your money and your taste.
12-23-2019, 07:08 AM
#13
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
Hello! The main reason I'd like coil overs is just for the low feeling ride. Not only that but to actually flush my wheels/make them actualy look like they fit into the wheel well. I do not plan on racing, this is my daily driver. Sure, I may once and awhile gas it but I wont be actually racing/drifting corners. That'll come when I'm more expreienced. Alright, Thanks for the headsup.
Thank you for the reply. I'll go ahead and just fix up the OEM seats rather than go through the hassle of getting aftermarket seats and worry about them not fitting. As for the coil over set, What would you suggest? Should I just go with lowering springs? Not only will they be cheaper but I can just buy 4 of them rather than having coil overs and have to worry about re-doing the height and re-alining them.
As for wheels, Would you happen to suggest some? I'd like some wheels like that if possible. I've been searching around but really can't find a good fit because the weight distribution which is still a bit confusing.
Again, Thank you for the comments and feedback. I will take it into account!
Thank you for the reply. I'll go ahead and just fix up the OEM seats rather than go through the hassle of getting aftermarket seats and worry about them not fitting. As for the coil over set, What would you suggest? Should I just go with lowering springs? Not only will they be cheaper but I can just buy 4 of them rather than having coil overs and have to worry about re-doing the height and re-alining them.
As for wheels, Would you happen to suggest some? I'd like some wheels like that if possible. I've been searching around but really can't find a good fit because the weight distribution which is still a bit confusing.
Again, Thank you for the comments and feedback. I will take it into account!
As for wheels, I use and endorse Enkei as the wheel brand used on my Z racecar. As others have already stated, the Enkei RPF-1 is likely the best, lightest and most inexpensive alloy on the market. Finally, don't make the mistake of learning to drive fast on the street. Experience must be guided and best learned at a dedicated driving school on a racetrack. The Z is that potent and many new owners have wrecked their Z without the proper training.
12-23-2019, 10:31 AM
#14
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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You can purchase the mounts along with the seats if you go with a set of Corbeaus. I replaced my OEM seats years ago with a pair of Corbeau CR1s and they been holding steady ever since. You may need to do some slight modifications with a dremel when replacing your factory mounts though. At least on the driver's side as i recall.
12-23-2019, 12:58 PM
#15
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Flush fitment has nothing to do with lowering. That's all through wheel size and offset.
Optimal fit for Z33: 18x9.5 Front, 18x10.5 Rear - both +22 offset (or lower to +15mm) with 245 & 275/40-18 but keep in mind, you will likely need to roll the guards if you go to any offset below 22 and lowered suspension. If you want to be safe, the 8.5F/9.5R combo works very well. Same tires. Pretty much no rolling required.
Thank you for the reply. I'll go ahead and just fix up the OEM seats rather than go through the hassle of getting aftermarket seats and worry about them not fitting. As for the coil over set, What would you suggest? Should I just go with lowering springs? Not only will they be cheaper but I can just buy 4 of them rather than having coil overs and have to worry about re-doing the height and re-alining them.
As for wheels, Would you happen to suggest some? I'd like some wheels like that if possible. I've been searching around but really can't find a good fit because the weight distribution which is still a bit confusing.
As for wheels, Would you happen to suggest some? I'd like some wheels like that if possible. I've been searching around but really can't find a good fit because the weight distribution which is still a bit confusing.
Wheels are subjective. For your general use and budget, a set of replicas is an ok thing. (Although frankly, I'd look at some stronger and lighter wheels. RPF1 as mentioned is great but if you don't like the looks, well....) And, check this out: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-tire...5-10-20-a.html If you can figure out shipping costs to your location, this is a great buy!
The following users liked this post:
dkmura (12-24-2019)
12-24-2019, 02:46 AM
#16
New Member
Thread Starter
You still don't mention how many miles are on your Z, but there's a good chance the shocks are worn out. So, if you're going to use lowering springs, replace the shocks at the same time (consider Koni sport shocks or Bilstein B13s) to save time and money.
As for wheels, I use and endorse Enkei as the wheel brand used on my Z racecar. As others have already stated, the Enkei RPF-1 is likely the best, lightest and most inexpensive alloy on the market. Finally, don't make the mistake of learning to drive fast on the street. Experience must be guided and best learned at a dedicated driving school on a racetrack. The Z is that potent and many new owners have wrecked their Z without the proper training.
As for wheels, I use and endorse Enkei as the wheel brand used on my Z racecar. As others have already stated, the Enkei RPF-1 is likely the best, lightest and most inexpensive alloy on the market. Finally, don't make the mistake of learning to drive fast on the street. Experience must be guided and best learned at a dedicated driving school on a racetrack. The Z is that potent and many new owners have wrecked their Z without the proper training.
I currently have 69k on the odometer. Yeah, I never actually race, fastest I've got is to about 120.
You can purchase the mounts along with the seats if you go with a set of Corbeaus. I replaced my OEM seats years ago with a pair of Corbeau CR1s and they been holding steady ever since. You may need to do some slight modifications with a dremel when replacing your factory mounts though. At least on the driver's side as i recall.
You can achieve low through springs & shocks OR not-too-expensive lowering only coilovers.
Flush fitment has nothing to do with lowering. That's all through wheel size and offset.
Optimal fit for Z33: 18x9.5 Front, 18x10.5 Rear - both +22 offset (or lower to +15mm) with 245 & 275/40-18 but keep in mind, you will likely need to roll the guards if you go to any offset below 22 and lowered suspension. If you want to be safe, the 8.5F/9.5R combo works very well. Same tires. Pretty much no rolling required.
See above concerning coilovers vs shocks/springs. But added point... GOOD shocks and springs can be as expensive as inexpensive coilovers. Advantage there is you can buy high quality shocks n' springs versus medium grade coilover for the same money. Also keep in mind, that coilovers or shocks/springs, you will need to align the car regardless of what you choose. (Or should to get the most out of your investment. Alignment is THE most important aspect of suspension modifications.
Wheels are subjective. For your general use and budget, a set of replicas is an ok thing. (Although frankly, I'd look at some stronger and lighter wheels. RPF1 as mentioned is great but if you don't like the looks, well....) And, check this out: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-tire...5-10-20-a.html If you can figure out shipping costs to your location, this is a great buy!
Flush fitment has nothing to do with lowering. That's all through wheel size and offset.
Optimal fit for Z33: 18x9.5 Front, 18x10.5 Rear - both +22 offset (or lower to +15mm) with 245 & 275/40-18 but keep in mind, you will likely need to roll the guards if you go to any offset below 22 and lowered suspension. If you want to be safe, the 8.5F/9.5R combo works very well. Same tires. Pretty much no rolling required.
See above concerning coilovers vs shocks/springs. But added point... GOOD shocks and springs can be as expensive as inexpensive coilovers. Advantage there is you can buy high quality shocks n' springs versus medium grade coilover for the same money. Also keep in mind, that coilovers or shocks/springs, you will need to align the car regardless of what you choose. (Or should to get the most out of your investment. Alignment is THE most important aspect of suspension modifications.
Wheels are subjective. For your general use and budget, a set of replicas is an ok thing. (Although frankly, I'd look at some stronger and lighter wheels. RPF1 as mentioned is great but if you don't like the looks, well....) And, check this out: https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-tire...5-10-20-a.html If you can figure out shipping costs to your location, this is a great buy!
Oh, I thought lowering had to do with flush!
Will these tires be a good flush/fit? https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...-551-18x975-22
Only an offset of 22!
So, Buying shocks and springs would be the way to go it would seem. With an offset of 22, if I do happen to get lowering springs you mentioned I would need to roll the fenders. Would this still be the case if I had lowering springs instead of coil overs?
12-24-2019, 06:07 AM
#18
New Member
Sweet,
I currently have 69k on the odometer. Yeah, I never actually race, fastest I've got is to about 120.
Alright, Thanks!
Oh, I thought lowering had to do with flush!
Will these tires be a good flush/fit? https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...-551-18x975-22
Only an offset of 22!
So, Buying shocks and springs would be the way to go it would seem. With an offset of 22, if I do happen to get lowering springs you mentioned I would need to roll the fenders. Would this still be the case if I had lowering springs instead of coil overs?
I currently have 69k on the odometer. Yeah, I never actually race, fastest I've got is to about 120.
Alright, Thanks!
Oh, I thought lowering had to do with flush!
Will these tires be a good flush/fit? https://www.fitmentindustries.com/bu...-551-18x975-22
Only an offset of 22!
So, Buying shocks and springs would be the way to go it would seem. With an offset of 22, if I do happen to get lowering springs you mentioned I would need to roll the fenders. Would this still be the case if I had lowering springs instead of coil overs?
Yes, you will need to roll your fenders depending on how low you go. It has no bearing on how you drop the car, just how far it drops. Past an inch of so and you will want to roll the fenders. Otherwise you risk the tire rubbing on them or slamming the fender everytime you hit a bump to hard.
12-26-2019, 11:32 PM
#19
Registered User
Yup
the bigger tire will also give you more traction, better looks from behind, as well as the flush “fitment” you are wanting. It will help fill up the wheel well without making the tire look goofy as hell as it would stretching that skinny tire on the 10 inch wheel
The following users liked this post:
SenpaiNodusMe (12-28-2019)
12-26-2019, 11:34 PM
#20
Registered User
Coilovers
Lowering does not make your car "flush". "Flush" deals with how well the wheel fills the fender (how far the wheels moves away from the car) not how low it sits.
Yes, you will need to roll your fenders depending on how low you go. It has no bearing on how you drop the car, just how far it drops. Past an inch of so and you will want to roll the fenders. Otherwise you risk the tire rubbing on them or slamming the fender everytime you hit a bump to hard.
Yes, you will need to roll your fenders depending on how low you go. It has no bearing on how you drop the car, just how far it drops. Past an inch of so and you will want to roll the fenders. Otherwise you risk the tire rubbing on them or slamming the fender everytime you hit a bump to hard.
The following users liked this post:
SenpaiNodusMe (12-28-2019)