Nissan 350z Shifter Slop
#1
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Hello! So I just bought a 2003 Nissan 350z Touring with about 48k miles now, and when I first test drove it, I knew it would need a new clutch and new shifter bushings, but I cannot seem to find anywhere that sells poly, or honestly, even rubber at this point replacement bushings for the shifter assembly, because I need it so bad, when I am in gear, it honestly almost feels like the car is in neutral.. any help would be appreciated, thanks!!
**Hope this isn't a repeat thread...**
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#2
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Hello! So I just bought a 2003 Nissan 350z Touring with about 48k miles now, and when I first test drove it, I knew it would need a new clutch and new shifter bushings, but I cannot seem to find anywhere that sells poly, or honestly, even rubber at this point replacement bushings for the shifter assembly, because I need it so bad, when I am in gear, it honestly almost feels like the car is in neutral.. any help would be appreciated, thanks!!
**Hope this isn't a repeat thread...**
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...hoCFMAQAvD_BwE
https://www.nisformance.com/NISforma...s-p/nis-sb.htm (Do not know this vendor so not recommending, just saw it.)
I think Nismo had some at one point or another, might want to look for that listing.
#3
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Thread Starter
![Smile](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon7.gif)
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...hoCFMAQAvD_BwE
https://www.nisformance.com/NISforma...s-p/nis-sb.htm (Do not know this vendor so not recommending, just saw it.)
I think Nismo had some at one point or another, might want to look for that listing.
https://www.nisformance.com/NISforma...s-p/nis-sb.htm (Do not know this vendor so not recommending, just saw it.)
I think Nismo had some at one point or another, might want to look for that listing.
Last edited by TechTerritory; 03-07-2023 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Add Detail, or Clarification
#4
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iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The 350Z shifter linkage goes straight into a hard plastic cup, from there the shifter fork bolts straight into the U-Joint shaft that connects into the gearbox. It's virtually solid all the way through, no bushings in the traditional sense. A lot of the slop you're feeling could be coming from a blown rear diff bushing, ripped engine mounts, or ripped transmission mount. I felt a lot of movement in the shift stick on my Z before I replaced the rear diff bushings and installed the GKtech diff brace, it's much more solid now. You can improve it further by replacing the engine mounts and trans mount with Poly bushings, but that will generate a noticeable amount of NVH.
I suspect and suggest inspecting your Shifter Ball/Cup assembly. Overtime it's possible this has worn out, it is plastic and if neglected (not cleaned & re-greased) and abused (slam shifting), I could see this wearing out or potentially breaking/cracking. The rubber gasket at the top also helps reduce play and maintain the position of the pivot point in relation to the shifter end-point adjustment plate (triangle shaped plate that captures the ball & cup assembly in the trans shifter bracket). Based on what you described, I believe this might be your issue. It's pretty easy to disconnect the shifter from the trans and inspect this component. One 12-mm bolt at the fork under the car (pull back the rubber boot to expose it) and 7x 10mm bolts under the shift boot. You don't even need to remove the shift **** to do this, but it does make it easier if you can.
Good Luck!
-Icer
I suspect and suggest inspecting your Shifter Ball/Cup assembly. Overtime it's possible this has worn out, it is plastic and if neglected (not cleaned & re-greased) and abused (slam shifting), I could see this wearing out or potentially breaking/cracking. The rubber gasket at the top also helps reduce play and maintain the position of the pivot point in relation to the shifter end-point adjustment plate (triangle shaped plate that captures the ball & cup assembly in the trans shifter bracket). Based on what you described, I believe this might be your issue. It's pretty easy to disconnect the shifter from the trans and inspect this component. One 12-mm bolt at the fork under the car (pull back the rubber boot to expose it) and 7x 10mm bolts under the shift boot. You don't even need to remove the shift **** to do this, but it does make it easier if you can.
Good Luck!
-Icer
#5
New Member
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
GKtech also has an offering for the tripod bushings: https://us.gktech.com/z33-350z-z34-3...ounts-set-of-4
#6
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![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
They also offer a set of nice shift springs to firm up the lateral rebound of the shift **** and reduce some of the slop. I've read that the MTEC version doesn't make much, if any, difference...if you have a CD009 6MT, but since the OP is running an 03 presumably with the older 6MT, these should have a noticeable impact. I'm actually considering the GKTech kit for myself since they offer two levels of spring rates, I think this might be a *must have* item if you're rocking a weighted shift ****. It's a cheap/affordable mod, and simple DIY with a huge quality of life impact. I need to check if anyone on the forums did a review writeup.
https://us.gktech.com/350z-370z-shif...urn-spring-kit
Cheers!
-Icer
https://us.gktech.com/350z-370z-shif...urn-spring-kit
Cheers!
-Icer
#7
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iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
They also offer a set of nice shift springs to firm up the lateral rebound of the shift **** and reduce some of the slop. I've read that the MTEC version doesn't make much, if any, difference...if you have a CD009 6MT, but since the OP is running an 03 presumably with the older 6MT, these should have a noticeable impact. I'm actually considering the GKTech kit for myself since they offer two levels of spring rates, I think this might be a *must have* item if you're rocking a weighted shift ****. It's a cheap/affordable mod, and simple DIY with a huge quality of life impact. I need to check if anyone on the forums did a review writeup.
https://us.gktech.com/350z-370z-shif...urn-spring-kit
Cheers!
-Icer
https://us.gktech.com/350z-370z-shif...urn-spring-kit
Cheers!
-Icer
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icer5160 (03-08-2023)
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#8
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Hey Heel,
I searched the forums and I couldn't find anyone talking specifically about the Gktech kit. There were a few posts regarding the MTEC kit, but that was all. Most feedback about this mod has been very positive. If you do end up getting a set to try out, please do a review write-up!
Cheers!
-Icer
I searched the forums and I couldn't find anyone talking specifically about the Gktech kit. There were a few posts regarding the MTEC kit, but that was all. Most feedback about this mod has been very positive. If you do end up getting a set to try out, please do a review write-up!
Cheers!
-Icer
The following users liked this post:
icer5160 (03-08-2023)
#10
New Member
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Heel,
I searched the forums and I couldn't find anyone talking specifically about the Gktech kit. There were a few posts regarding the MTEC kit, but that was all. Most feedback about this mod has been very positive. If you do end up getting a set to try out, please do a review write-up!
Cheers!
-Icer
I searched the forums and I couldn't find anyone talking specifically about the Gktech kit. There were a few posts regarding the MTEC kit, but that was all. Most feedback about this mod has been very positive. If you do end up getting a set to try out, please do a review write-up!
Cheers!
-Icer
The following users liked this post:
icer5160 (03-09-2023)
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The 350Z shifter linkage goes straight into a hard plastic cup, from there the shifter fork bolts straight into the U-Joint shaft that connects into the gearbox. It's virtually solid all the way through, no bushings in the traditional sense. A lot of the slop you're feeling could be coming from a blown rear diff bushing, ripped engine mounts, or ripped transmission mount. I felt a lot of movement in the shift stick on my Z before I replaced the rear diff bushings and installed the GKtech diff brace, it's much more solid now. You can improve it further by replacing the engine mounts and trans mount with Poly bushings, but that will generate a noticeable amount of NVH.
I suspect and suggest inspecting your Shifter Ball/Cup assembly. Overtime it's possible this has worn out, it is plastic and if neglected (not cleaned & re-greased) and abused (slam shifting), I could see this wearing out or potentially breaking/cracking. The rubber gasket at the top also helps reduce play and maintain the position of the pivot point in relation to the shifter end-point adjustment plate (triangle shaped plate that captures the ball & cup assembly in the trans shifter bracket). Based on what you described, I believe this might be your issue. It's pretty easy to disconnect the shifter from the trans and inspect this component. One 12-mm bolt at the fork under the car (pull back the rubber boot to expose it) and 7x 10mm bolts under the shift boot. You don't even need to remove the shift **** to do this, but it does make it easier if you can.
Good Luck!
-Icer
I suspect and suggest inspecting your Shifter Ball/Cup assembly. Overtime it's possible this has worn out, it is plastic and if neglected (not cleaned & re-greased) and abused (slam shifting), I could see this wearing out or potentially breaking/cracking. The rubber gasket at the top also helps reduce play and maintain the position of the pivot point in relation to the shifter end-point adjustment plate (triangle shaped plate that captures the ball & cup assembly in the trans shifter bracket). Based on what you described, I believe this might be your issue. It's pretty easy to disconnect the shifter from the trans and inspect this component. One 12-mm bolt at the fork under the car (pull back the rubber boot to expose it) and 7x 10mm bolts under the shift boot. You don't even need to remove the shift **** to do this, but it does make it easier if you can.
Good Luck!
-Icer
#12
New Member
Thread Starter
![Unhappy](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon9.gif)
The 350Z shifter linkage goes straight into a hard plastic cup, from there the shifter fork bolts straight into the U-Joint shaft that connects into the gearbox. It's virtually solid all the way through, no bushings in the traditional sense. A lot of the slop you're feeling could be coming from a blown rear diff bushing, ripped engine mounts, or ripped transmission mount. I felt a lot of movement in the shift stick on my Z before I replaced the rear diff bushings and installed the GKtech diff brace, it's much more solid now. You can improve it further by replacing the engine mounts and trans mount with Poly bushings, but that will generate a noticeable amount of NVH.
I suspect and suggest inspecting your Shifter Ball/Cup assembly. Overtime it's possible this has worn out, it is plastic and if neglected (not cleaned & re-greased) and abused (slam shifting), I could see this wearing out or potentially breaking/cracking. The rubber gasket at the top also helps reduce play and maintain the position of the pivot point in relation to the shifter end-point adjustment plate (triangle shaped plate that captures the ball & cup assembly in the trans shifter bracket). Based on what you described, I believe this might be your issue. It's pretty easy to disconnect the shifter from the trans and inspect this component. One 12-mm bolt at the fork under the car (pull back the rubber boot to expose it) and 7x 10mm bolts under the shift boot. You don't even need to remove the shift **** to do this, but it does make it easier if you can.
Good Luck!
-Icer
I suspect and suggest inspecting your Shifter Ball/Cup assembly. Overtime it's possible this has worn out, it is plastic and if neglected (not cleaned & re-greased) and abused (slam shifting), I could see this wearing out or potentially breaking/cracking. The rubber gasket at the top also helps reduce play and maintain the position of the pivot point in relation to the shifter end-point adjustment plate (triangle shaped plate that captures the ball & cup assembly in the trans shifter bracket). Based on what you described, I believe this might be your issue. It's pretty easy to disconnect the shifter from the trans and inspect this component. One 12-mm bolt at the fork under the car (pull back the rubber boot to expose it) and 7x 10mm bolts under the shift boot. You don't even need to remove the shift **** to do this, but it does make it easier if you can.
Good Luck!
-Icer
S i tore the whole inside of the car apart, and disconnected the shifter rod, and inspected the shifter ball/cup assembly, and there is a TINY amount of movement, and the rubber is hardly worn, and then I just screwed back in the screw that connects the shifter rod to the other rod that connects to the transmission, and then put it in gear and shook it, and the whole second rod moved, but the transmission didnt budge (As I said, I put poly bushings in) and had my dad look underneath at the differential, and the differential bushings, and nothing. Has anyone else had this issue? I dont know where in the world the slop would be coming from!! I can move the shifter left and right about 1.5 inches on both sides (about 3 inches total from my memory) and Its not the shifter ball cup, nor the transmission or differential... has anyone had an issue where the slop comes from inside the transmission??? thoughts? the syncros are on their way out, but they still have life in them, and it doesnt make sense to me that that would be causing the slop... HELP... please. (I also felt the tripod, and its fine, the small amount of movement their is is the same as my friends Z)
Last edited by TechTerritory; 03-27-2023 at 07:41 PM.
#13
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iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Tech,
Since you confirmed the cup assembly is in good shape, then the remaining item to check are the shifter return springs.
As mentioned earlier in the thread, you can try upgrading these springs with the Gktech kit. Before ordering replacements, I suggest pulling out the stock springs and inspecting them (if they are even present). I suspect they are either completely worn out, broken, or missing. Worst case scenario, the internal piece that these springs push against could be broken (least likely). This issue was present since you purchased the car right? It's possible the previous owner messed with these springs, so inspect to verify/confirm. They are easy to access and check. Watch the gktech product video on it (link in previous post).
Cheers!
-Icer
Since you confirmed the cup assembly is in good shape, then the remaining item to check are the shifter return springs.
As mentioned earlier in the thread, you can try upgrading these springs with the Gktech kit. Before ordering replacements, I suggest pulling out the stock springs and inspecting them (if they are even present). I suspect they are either completely worn out, broken, or missing. Worst case scenario, the internal piece that these springs push against could be broken (least likely). This issue was present since you purchased the car right? It's possible the previous owner messed with these springs, so inspect to verify/confirm. They are easy to access and check. Watch the gktech product video on it (link in previous post).
Cheers!
-Icer
#14
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Tech,
Since you confirmed the cup assembly is in good shape, then the remaining item to check are the shifter return springs.
As mentioned earlier in the thread, you can try upgrading these springs with the Gktech kit. Before ordering replacements, I suggest pulling out the stock springs and inspecting them (if they are even present). I suspect they are either completely worn out, broken, or missing. Worst case scenario, the internal piece that these springs push against could be broken (least likely). This issue was present since you purchased the car right? It's possible the previous owner messed with these springs, so inspect to verify/confirm. They are easy to access and check. Watch the gktech product video on it (link in previous post).
Cheers!
-Icer
Since you confirmed the cup assembly is in good shape, then the remaining item to check are the shifter return springs.
As mentioned earlier in the thread, you can try upgrading these springs with the Gktech kit. Before ordering replacements, I suggest pulling out the stock springs and inspecting them (if they are even present). I suspect they are either completely worn out, broken, or missing. Worst case scenario, the internal piece that these springs push against could be broken (least likely). This issue was present since you purchased the car right? It's possible the previous owner messed with these springs, so inspect to verify/confirm. They are easy to access and check. Watch the gktech product video on it (link in previous post).
Cheers!
-Icer
Last edited by Tech Territory; 03-31-2023 at 01:14 PM. Reason: add video
#15
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Hi Tech,
Thanks for the vid. If it's that sloppy while in gear, then there could be damage to an internal component. I'm not sure, at this point I would suggest reaching out to a gear shop who understands the ins and outs of manual gearboxes. If it's confirmed you have an internal issue and since you have an 03, I wouldn't sink any money into fixing up the gearbox, I would look for a good used CD009, the 03 gearboxes are known for weak synchros and a few other issues.
Good Luck!
-Icer
Thanks for the vid. If it's that sloppy while in gear, then there could be damage to an internal component. I'm not sure, at this point I would suggest reaching out to a gear shop who understands the ins and outs of manual gearboxes. If it's confirmed you have an internal issue and since you have an 03, I wouldn't sink any money into fixing up the gearbox, I would look for a good used CD009, the 03 gearboxes are known for weak synchros and a few other issues.
Good Luck!
-Icer
#16
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Tech,
Thanks for the vid. If it's that sloppy while in gear, then there could be damage to an internal component. I'm not sure, at this point I would suggest reaching out to a gear shop who understands the ins and outs of manual gearboxes. If it's confirmed you have an internal issue and since you have an 03, I wouldn't sink any money into fixing up the gearbox, I would look for a good used CD009, the 03 gearboxes are known for weak synchros and a few other issues.
Good Luck!
-Icer
Thanks for the vid. If it's that sloppy while in gear, then there could be damage to an internal component. I'm not sure, at this point I would suggest reaching out to a gear shop who understands the ins and outs of manual gearboxes. If it's confirmed you have an internal issue and since you have an 03, I wouldn't sink any money into fixing up the gearbox, I would look for a good used CD009, the 03 gearboxes are known for weak synchros and a few other issues.
Good Luck!
-Icer
#17
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iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://my350z.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yeah, for sure! Thanks so much for trying to help me. I assumed it was something internal at this point, The 1 and 2 gear syncros are pretty bad and the 3,4,5, and 6's are OK... so yeah, I would assume it is syncros... DC009, will this one sync up with the reverse light switch, and will it work with the stock master cylinder and stuff?
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icer5160 (04-04-2023)
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