Clutch only engages when pressed several times
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I replaced my clutches slave and master cylinder and still can't get my pedal to work correctly. A few weeks ago I thought I had a blowout of my clutch but after some research decided to replace the slave and master together. But now for whatever reason it's not working. I've tried to gravity bleed the clutch and pressure bleed it. I'm stumped and at a dead end in my journey. Any suggestions?
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icer5160 (08-17-2023)
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If you did not bench bleed the clutch master cylinder before the install, it takes a lot of bleeding following the FSM procedure to purge all the air bubbles. I recommend cycling 1qt of fluid through to start with, let the car sit overnight (or a few days) and then cycle another 1qt of fluid through. This gives the very fine, foam like air bubbles, time to combine into larger bubbles, thus giving you a better chance of purging them out on the 2nd bleed cycle. Since the components are new, you can safely capture the fluid and recycle it back through the system. I use a painters filter whenever I recycle brake fluid or coolant. Obviously I only do this when the the fluid is almost new. No sense in wasting perfectly good DOT4 brake fluid or OEM coolant.
I struggled a bit to get my clutch hydraulics working perfect, I've only had to do this exercise twice in the past and both times one session of bleeding was not enough (both incidents involved a new master and slave cylinder install + new soft line to the slave). A second bleed session was required after some driving time or allowing the vehicle to sit. Having a friend help with pumping the pedal while I was working the bleeder valve made this process a lot easier. I've tried using a vacuum bleeder and found this was not effective for purging air from a new clutch master cylinder that has not already been bench bled.
Good Luck!
-Icer
I struggled a bit to get my clutch hydraulics working perfect, I've only had to do this exercise twice in the past and both times one session of bleeding was not enough (both incidents involved a new master and slave cylinder install + new soft line to the slave). A second bleed session was required after some driving time or allowing the vehicle to sit. Having a friend help with pumping the pedal while I was working the bleeder valve made this process a lot easier. I've tried using a vacuum bleeder and found this was not effective for purging air from a new clutch master cylinder that has not already been bench bled.
Good Luck!
-Icer
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Best way to bleed, when you open the valve to release fluid/air , fully compress the piston/rod back into the slave. Doing this makes sure you get all the trapped air out
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