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2003-2009 Nissan 350Z

Changing Tires on 350Z

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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 09:41 AM
  #1  
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Default Changing Tires on 350Z

I received a snow tire/wheel package from the Tire Rack and I have to say, changing the 4 tires was a PITA.

I only had the OEM jack and equipment - this is what I did (4) times.

1. I broke the lugs loose
2. I jacked up car
3. I finished unbolting lugs and take off stock tire
4. I take hubcentric ring from back of new tire and push it onto hub until secure
5. I put on wheel/tire
6. I take 10 minutes trying to line up the bolts to the lugs so I can hand tighten. Even being off 1 degree or 0.5 mm was throwing it off.
7. To make matters worse, the fronts had these bolts so the mechanics wouldn't put rear tires on front. I could break out out easily, the other one I had to ask someone to step on my brake so the hub wasn't turning.
8. Unjack car
9. Torque lugnuts to 85ft/lbs

10. I tried doing this on my lunch break but it took 75 minutes!

Is there a trick to making #6 faster? Or a trick to doing #7 without coworker? I obviously won't hafta do that ever again but it was a PITA.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 11:40 AM
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Ick. I haven't had the honor of changing my tires yet. I hope it's not this much of hassle.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 06:57 AM
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Once you remove that bolt from the front hub, you can just leave it off. You don't need to put it back on everytime.

Last edited by phoenixZ33; Nov 11, 2004 at 07:02 AM.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:39 AM
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For any new set of wheels does that bolt that prevents the rear tires from being switched with the front have to be removed or does this just happen with certain wheels?
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:09 PM
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It seems to be the case with many aftermarket wheels, but you might as well take the bolt off ttsupra94.

roydiculous,
Were the hubcentric rings the correct size? It should be trivial to line up rims to the center after the rings are on.

Also to save time, use a cordless drill with a ratchet adapter to loosen/tighten lugs when off the ground. Use a Sears steel torque wrench to break/lock lugs when on the ground.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:20 PM
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I change my wheels at least twice a month, and I've never had a problem with lug nuts. I also use a cordless drill to unthread/thread my lug nuts and a torque wrench to break/tighten them properly.

This might be an issue with your new rims, if the lug nuts are very close to the rim's lug wells.

Also, a jack at the front lift point will lift both the front and rear wheels. It takes me about 30 minutes to change wheels, when I don't clean them during the process.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 04:55 AM
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hmmm... the hub centering rings went on my hub very snugly - and flush.

As far as I could tell, the hub centering rings were in the wheel pretty snugly too. It got easier as I went along. I took sandpaper and sanded down the rust on the the hub and too my time to make sure the wheel was 100% flush, pushing it in really hard and that seemed to do the trick.

Maybe I'm just a newbie. But again, b/c my deep well socket was very thick (0.01 mm narrower than lug hole) I had to be exactly lined up to do it. There was no room for error.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 04:56 AM
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btw- the stupid socket scratched the inside of my lug holes - even after I tried to tape it up...

What else can I do not to scratch my lug holes?
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 05:14 AM
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Roy,

When i put on the Blizzak's, I scratched the inside of the holes also, nothing u can do unless u have the specific dia. lug, but the shitty part is that most rims ive come in contact with have diff. dia. holes, so buying a new lug every time is a waste.

Considering that the hole isnt really too noticable, im going to use a vry high grit sandpaper, and smooth them out, and use touch up paint w/color code.

But considering Winters here, I could care less.. I cant wait to find an open parking lot w/ snow crown and go nuts.


Sully
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 08:59 AM
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Originally posted by roydiculous
btw- the stupid socket scratched the inside of my lug holes - even after I tried to tape it up...

What else can I do not to scratch my lug holes?
You can purchase a set of lug sockets. I get mine from Harbor Freight & Salvage. ~$15 for a set of the three most common sizes.

They are made of CrMo have HDPE sleeves on the outside of the sockets, and on the base of the inside. They work great on my OEM and NISMO rims.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 09:07 AM
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Any Vendor web link for the lugs?

Sully
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 10:04 AM
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To prevent scratching of your rims, wrap the head of your socket wrench or tire wrench with electrical tape.

As for step #6, I use one of those cross shaped tire wrenches that come with 4 different socket sizes (one one each end). I place the bolt inside the socket, then place the bolt on the lug, and just spin the wrench until the bolt catches the lug. I never ever need to twist the bolt with my bare hands whether I'm removing or installing the bolts. It's also fast enough that it's not worth pulling out my cordless drill.

You can those tire wrenches at any automotive store for $6-$10. Isn't this the tool that old schoolers use?
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