Changing Tires on 350Z
11-10-2004, 09:41 AM
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Changing Tires on 350Z
I received a snow tire/wheel package from the Tire Rack and I have to say, changing the 4 tires was a PITA.
I only had the OEM jack and equipment - this is what I did (4) times.
1. I broke the lugs loose
2. I jacked up car
3. I finished unbolting lugs and take off stock tire
4. I take hubcentric ring from back of new tire and push it onto hub until secure
5. I put on wheel/tire
6. I take 10 minutes trying to line up the bolts to the lugs so I can hand tighten. Even being off 1 degree or 0.5 mm was throwing it off.
7. To make matters worse, the fronts had these bolts so the mechanics wouldn't put rear tires on front. I could break out out easily, the other one I had to ask someone to step on my brake so the hub wasn't turning.
8. Unjack car
9. Torque lugnuts to 85ft/lbs
10. I tried doing this on my lunch break but it took 75 minutes!
Is there a trick to making #6 faster? Or a trick to doing #7 without coworker? I obviously won't hafta do that ever again but it was a PITA.
I only had the OEM jack and equipment - this is what I did (4) times.
1. I broke the lugs loose
2. I jacked up car
3. I finished unbolting lugs and take off stock tire
4. I take hubcentric ring from back of new tire and push it onto hub until secure
5. I put on wheel/tire
6. I take 10 minutes trying to line up the bolts to the lugs so I can hand tighten. Even being off 1 degree or 0.5 mm was throwing it off.
7. To make matters worse, the fronts had these bolts so the mechanics wouldn't put rear tires on front. I could break out out easily, the other one I had to ask someone to step on my brake so the hub wasn't turning.
8. Unjack car
9. Torque lugnuts to 85ft/lbs
10. I tried doing this on my lunch break but it took 75 minutes!
Is there a trick to making #6 faster? Or a trick to doing #7 without coworker? I obviously won't hafta do that ever again but it was a PITA.
11-11-2004, 06:57 AM
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Once you remove that bolt from the front hub, you can just leave it off. You don't need to put it back on everytime.
Last edited by phoenixZ33; 11-11-2004 at 07:02 AM.
11-11-2004, 07:39 AM
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For any new set of wheels does that bolt that prevents the rear tires from being switched with the front have to be removed or does this just happen with certain wheels?
11-11-2004, 07:09 PM
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It seems to be the case with many aftermarket wheels, but you might as well take the bolt off ttsupra94.
roydiculous,
Were the hubcentric rings the correct size? It should be trivial to line up rims to the center after the rings are on.
Also to save time, use a cordless drill with a ratchet adapter to loosen/tighten lugs when off the ground. Use a Sears steel torque wrench to break/lock lugs when on the ground.
roydiculous,
Were the hubcentric rings the correct size? It should be trivial to line up rims to the center after the rings are on.
Also to save time, use a cordless drill with a ratchet adapter to loosen/tighten lugs when off the ground. Use a Sears steel torque wrench to break/lock lugs when on the ground.
11-11-2004, 07:20 PM
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I change my wheels at least twice a month, and I've never had a problem with lug nuts. I also use a cordless drill to unthread/thread my lug nuts and a torque wrench to break/tighten them properly.
This might be an issue with your new rims, if the lug nuts are very close to the rim's lug wells.
Also, a jack at the front lift point will lift both the front and rear wheels. It takes me about 30 minutes to change wheels, when I don't clean them during the process.
This might be an issue with your new rims, if the lug nuts are very close to the rim's lug wells.
Also, a jack at the front lift point will lift both the front and rear wheels. It takes me about 30 minutes to change wheels, when I don't clean them during the process.
11-11-2004, 09:34 PM
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i took mine off the other day to paint my calipers cause they got fried at the track.
it was the first time i ever did it myself. i had problems with a few lugs they were torqued back at a tire place and i thought i would never get them off.
but over all it wasnt too bad i think i could do it alot easier next time
it was the first time i ever did it myself. i had problems with a few lugs they were torqued back at a tire place and i thought i would never get them off.
but over all it wasnt too bad i think i could do it alot easier next time
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11-12-2004, 04:55 AM
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hmmm... the hub centering rings went on my hub very snugly - and flush.
As far as I could tell, the hub centering rings were in the wheel pretty snugly too. It got easier as I went along. I took sandpaper and sanded down the rust on the the hub and too my time to make sure the wheel was 100% flush, pushing it in really hard and that seemed to do the trick.
Maybe I'm just a newbie. But again, b/c my deep well socket was very thick (0.01 mm narrower than lug hole) I had to be exactly lined up to do it. There was no room for error.
As far as I could tell, the hub centering rings were in the wheel pretty snugly too. It got easier as I went along. I took sandpaper and sanded down the rust on the the hub and too my time to make sure the wheel was 100% flush, pushing it in really hard and that seemed to do the trick.
Maybe I'm just a newbie. But again, b/c my deep well socket was very thick (0.01 mm narrower than lug hole) I had to be exactly lined up to do it. There was no room for error.
11-12-2004, 04:56 AM
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btw- the stupid socket scratched the inside of my lug holes - even after I tried to tape it up...
What else can I do not to scratch my lug holes?
What else can I do not to scratch my lug holes?
11-12-2004, 05:14 AM
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Roy,
When i put on the Blizzak's, I scratched the inside of the holes also, nothing u can do unless u have the specific dia. lug, but the shitty part is that most rims ive come in contact with have diff. dia. holes, so buying a new lug every time is a waste.
Considering that the hole isnt really too noticable, im going to use a vry high grit sandpaper, and smooth them out, and use touch up paint w/color code.
But considering Winters here, I could care less.. I cant wait to find an open parking lot w/ snow crown and go nuts.
Sully
When i put on the Blizzak's, I scratched the inside of the holes also, nothing u can do unless u have the specific dia. lug, but the shitty part is that most rims ive come in contact with have diff. dia. holes, so buying a new lug every time is a waste.
Considering that the hole isnt really too noticable, im going to use a vry high grit sandpaper, and smooth them out, and use touch up paint w/color code.
But considering Winters here, I could care less.. I cant wait to find an open parking lot w/ snow crown and go nuts.
Sully
11-12-2004, 08:59 AM
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Originally posted by roydiculous
btw- the stupid socket scratched the inside of my lug holes - even after I tried to tape it up...
What else can I do not to scratch my lug holes?
btw- the stupid socket scratched the inside of my lug holes - even after I tried to tape it up...
What else can I do not to scratch my lug holes?
They are made of CrMo have HDPE sleeves on the outside of the sockets, and on the base of the inside. They work great on my OEM and NISMO rims.
11-12-2004, 10:04 AM
#13
To prevent scratching of your rims, wrap the head of your socket wrench or tire wrench with electrical tape.
As for step #6, I use one of those cross shaped tire wrenches that come with 4 different socket sizes (one one each end). I place the bolt inside the socket, then place the bolt on the lug, and just spin the wrench until the bolt catches the lug. I never ever need to twist the bolt with my bare hands whether I'm removing or installing the bolts. It's also fast enough that it's not worth pulling out my cordless drill.
You can those tire wrenches at any automotive store for $6-$10. Isn't this the tool that old schoolers use?
As for step #6, I use one of those cross shaped tire wrenches that come with 4 different socket sizes (one one each end). I place the bolt inside the socket, then place the bolt on the lug, and just spin the wrench until the bolt catches the lug. I never ever need to twist the bolt with my bare hands whether I'm removing or installing the bolts. It's also fast enough that it's not worth pulling out my cordless drill.
You can those tire wrenches at any automotive store for $6-$10. Isn't this the tool that old schoolers use?
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