10,000 watts of power
I love it when kids cram a shet load of cheap "High watt" audio Crap in their cars and think it will sound better than the other kids "Lesser High Watt" audio crap...
Save your money and buy some NICE equipment.
Save your money and buy some NICE equipment.
watts mean very little, unless you plan to go into SPL competitions, or very high end sound quality competitions where dynamic headroom means a ton.
for everyday purposes, there is reall yno need. with taht much power, you are going to :
1. have bass thats going to drown out everyhting else
2. kill your alternator
3. rattle stuff
4. destroy your hearing
5. weigh your car down a lot and mess up the handling and the acceleration ad gas mileage
My entire car, whcih is a lot bigger than a Z, has 380 watts of RMS rated power in it, including only 190 to the sub, and i have surprised many people with how loud it can get... if you want a nicely balanced system, dont do any 1000 watts, infact, dont do audiobah if you can help it. they have imporved, but they are still so bling bling and more show thango, whcih i think dont bgelong in a Z.
just my two cents
b
for everyday purposes, there is reall yno need. with taht much power, you are going to :
1. have bass thats going to drown out everyhting else
2. kill your alternator
3. rattle stuff
4. destroy your hearing
5. weigh your car down a lot and mess up the handling and the acceleration ad gas mileage
My entire car, whcih is a lot bigger than a Z, has 380 watts of RMS rated power in it, including only 190 to the sub, and i have surprised many people with how loud it can get... if you want a nicely balanced system, dont do any 1000 watts, infact, dont do audiobah if you can help it. they have imporved, but they are still so bling bling and more show thango, whcih i think dont bgelong in a Z.
just my two cents
b
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
watts mean very little, unless you plan to go into SPL competitions, or very high end sound quality competitions where dynamic headroom means a ton.
for everyday purposes, there is reall yno need. with taht much power, you are going to :
1. have bass thats going to drown out everyhting else
2. kill your alternator
3. rattle stuff
4. destroy your hearing
5. weigh your car down a lot and mess up the handling and the acceleration ad gas mileage
My entire car, whcih is a lot bigger than a Z, has 380 watts of RMS rated power in it, including only 190 to the sub, and i have surprised many people with how loud it can get... if you want a nicely balanced system, dont do any 1000 watts, infact, dont do audiobah if you can help it. they have imporved, but they are still so bling bling and more show thango, whcih i think dont bgelong in a Z.
just my two cents
b
for everyday purposes, there is reall yno need. with taht much power, you are going to :
1. have bass thats going to drown out everyhting else
2. kill your alternator
3. rattle stuff
4. destroy your hearing
5. weigh your car down a lot and mess up the handling and the acceleration ad gas mileage
My entire car, whcih is a lot bigger than a Z, has 380 watts of RMS rated power in it, including only 190 to the sub, and i have surprised many people with how loud it can get... if you want a nicely balanced system, dont do any 1000 watts, infact, dont do audiobah if you can help it. they have imporved, but they are still so bling bling and more show thango, whcih i think dont bgelong in a Z.
just my two cents
b
(I like #4 the best)
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if you crave a lot of bass, and from my experience, 99 percent of people who claim they want ALOT of bass, can be satisfied with anything from 140db and down...many of them who claimed they love bass, have told me after a while, they cant stand anything over that with that...infact, i would say 130db is pretty darn loud for anyone with a normal taste for bass 
to achieve mid to hgih 130 in a small hatchback like hte Z, you dont need anywhere near that much stuff. do this instead:
1. high power sub int he 12" class: jl w7, crystal compx2, image dynamics idmax, mtx thunder 95 series, there are a slew of others like DD95 esries, etc etc...basically something capable of higher excusion, good sound quality, and take about 600-100 watts RMS.
2. take a nice class D amp, rated at 600-1000 rms.
3. do a nice and clean install with air tight enclosure of the right volume and tune it correctly.
you should easily get into the mid 130 db range, at whcih point you can then modulate your voice, move your hair, shake your vision, and just be downright obnoxious
and in the end, you have spent a lot less money, asfed hundreds of pounts of weight and valuable trunk space, and will get more respect from peeps who know audio.
b
to achieve mid to hgih 130 in a small hatchback like hte Z, you dont need anywhere near that much stuff. do this instead:
1. high power sub int he 12" class: jl w7, crystal compx2, image dynamics idmax, mtx thunder 95 series, there are a slew of others like DD95 esries, etc etc...basically something capable of higher excusion, good sound quality, and take about 600-100 watts RMS.
2. take a nice class D amp, rated at 600-1000 rms.
3. do a nice and clean install with air tight enclosure of the right volume and tune it correctly.
you should easily get into the mid 130 db range, at whcih point you can then modulate your voice, move your hair, shake your vision, and just be downright obnoxious
and in the end, you have spent a lot less money, asfed hundreds of pounts of weight and valuable trunk space, and will get more respect from peeps who know audio.
b
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
if you crave a lot of bass, and from my experience, 99 percent of people who claim they want ALOT of bass, can be satisfied with anything from 140db and down...many of them who claimed they love bass, have told me after a while, they cant stand anything over that with that...infact, i would say 130db is pretty darn loud for anyone with a normal taste for bass
to achieve mid to hgih 130 in a small hatchback like hte Z, you dont need anywhere near that much stuff. do this instead:
1. high power sub int he 12" class: jl w7, crystal compx2, image dynamics idmax, mtx thunder 95 series, there are a slew of others like DD95 esries, etc etc...basically something capable of higher excusion, good sound quality, and take about 600-100 watts RMS.
2. take a nice class D amp, rated at 600-1000 rms.
3. do a nice and clean install with air tight enclosure of the right volume and tune it correctly.
you should easily get into the mid 130 db range, at whcih point you can then modulate your voice, move your hair, shake your vision, and just be downright obnoxious
and in the end, you have spent a lot less money, asfed hundreds of pounts of weight and valuable trunk space, and will get more respect from peeps who know audio.
b
to achieve mid to hgih 130 in a small hatchback like hte Z, you dont need anywhere near that much stuff. do this instead:
1. high power sub int he 12" class: jl w7, crystal compx2, image dynamics idmax, mtx thunder 95 series, there are a slew of others like DD95 esries, etc etc...basically something capable of higher excusion, good sound quality, and take about 600-100 watts RMS.
2. take a nice class D amp, rated at 600-1000 rms.
3. do a nice and clean install with air tight enclosure of the right volume and tune it correctly.
you should easily get into the mid 130 db range, at whcih point you can then modulate your voice, move your hair, shake your vision, and just be downright obnoxious
and in the end, you have spent a lot less money, asfed hundreds of pounts of weight and valuable trunk space, and will get more respect from peeps who know audio.
b
you should get roughly the same sound.
Just a little FYI ... 2,000W of rated power doesn't mean that it will sound any bit louder than an efficient 300W rated driver per the same enclosure.
It is simply rated at a higher power handling capability (needed for this highly inefficient design. It likely has a gigantic 3" 4 layer coil and all sorts of fun little Al heat piping to keep it alive ... none of this benefiting the overall output of this subwoofer in any way .. only allowing it to survive big power.
Please do not buy crap like this. You will truly be impressed with one single 12" subwoofer with a nice healthy 500W of real power.
It is simply rated at a higher power handling capability (needed for this highly inefficient design. It likely has a gigantic 3" 4 layer coil and all sorts of fun little Al heat piping to keep it alive ... none of this benefiting the overall output of this subwoofer in any way .. only allowing it to survive big power.
Please do not buy crap like this. You will truly be impressed with one single 12" subwoofer with a nice healthy 500W of real power.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
OK, 5 of those will not only make u have to change ur alternator, u might have to fab a dual alternator, somewhere in the neightborhood of 3 or 4 optima batts. and 5 or 6 caps. Not oly will this add an intence amount of weight, but because of the 350's design, teh rear glass can blow, but more over, it doesnt matter how much power u pump into a sub, its how well it can use that power. I have a single 12" MTX 8500 with 600 watts in a ported box, this is in my c230 k(mb), this ***** is loud as hell. it has a 93.1 db/m at 2.83 volts(1 watt). Looken at other audiobahn sub, it has an average of 88 db/m'ish. Ok, let take ur wish setup, there is a theretical equation of db SPL= sensitivity+10 log(input per woofer). ok so lets say 88+10log(1000) will give a theroretical 118db SPl. Ok, now mine with 93.1+10log(600) will give 121 db SPl. Now 3bb is equal to double in amp power output. ok now by adding 4 more woofers u can gain 6dbs per so like 23 or 24 if ur lucky. so 118+24=142. but this is all theretical, very dependent of enclosure and the car. but u gain like what 45-50lbs per woofer, 225 best case, another 30-40 for teh amps, 50ish for the 3 batts, and 10 for teh caps. u gain 315lbs if you get luck, probly more, then add the box liek another 60lbs. In teh end u gain like 400lbs, way to much. And audiobauh isnt teh be SQL. Just one or 2 12 will do in a sealed, dont do that crap, to much time money, rish of thieft all that ****. And when u do get something, look at the effitionsy, it makes a huge difference.
I know that my internet typing skills are **** poor ... but therock, dude, wow ... you just one-upped me.
You make a quasi-good point here in that efficiency equation ... but you need to realize what that efficiency is ... that is the given sound power output at a certain center frequency ... not full range .... more specifically not low end.
You MTX subwoofer is a example of a subwoofer that will exceed that output at certain frequencies and fall on its a$$ at others. At resonance (your tuning frequency) you get some serious output from that sub of yours .. but at lower frequencies .. you system is unloading and incapable of that claimed output. This is why you see SPL competitors use a certain frequency to "burp" at ..... where the system is in resonance and in line with the transfer function of the car ... to get a max efficiency for a given input.
The real story about getting loud here is not the SPL rating of the subwoofer ... nor is it the 1.21 gigawatts that it can handle.
It is about Linear volume displacement (pistonic stroke x cone area). The more air you can move the louder you can get. I don't care your subwoofers are 106 dB 1W/1m ... it won't matter when you run out of BL and can't move anymore air.
Some great examples of High excursion woofers are
Adire, Ascendant and RE's XBL^2 drivers 30mm+ one way
JL's W7 30mm+ one way
TC Sounds LMT 40mm+ one way ...
and I have heard great things about Acoustic Elegance's new stuff 50mm+ one way linear.
as the old saying goes ... there is no replacement for displacement
jim
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Tampa
That is true, i know what u mean, but i know in there i said theroretical, its just an equation that estimates. It doesnt take into account like box tuning and woofer constuction and all that, it just take power and sensitivity and give an aproximation. I know it might not be accurate, hell, it might be way off, but in there i did put most variables, woofer difference, car constuction, but tuning and constuction. There are infinate variables, but its a guess. Like life, there are ways around every rule!!!
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