Fahrenheit display killing my battery?
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Fahrenheit display killing my battery?
So I installed my display two weeks ago and ended up using the yellow wire connected to my stock HU for power and grounding it on the back of the OEM radio metal housing...car ran fine for a day or two after and then i went out of town for a week and let the car sit. One week later went to start the car and the battery is dead, the screen was 100% not left on. Car was jumped and ran fine and was given ample time to charge back up. Car sat for another week and once again will not start. My question is, is it possible that i have a bad ground/power connection that is causing a slow drain when the car is off?
If so i want to rewire the entire screen to somewhere else but im not sure where else i can do this. Where else is there a 12v signal by the dash that i can use as well as a good ground. Thanks in advance!
If so i want to rewire the entire screen to somewhere else but im not sure where else i can do this. Where else is there a 12v signal by the dash that i can use as well as a good ground. Thanks in advance!
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the display is connected to switched 12v power usually the radio's lead switched power, if not the screen will always be on but dark like if no power was applied to it, due to the fact that the radio or dvd player is off. If this is not the case your battery may be at fault
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Originally Posted by minispider
the display is connected to switched 12v power usually the radio's lead switched power, if not the screen will always be on but dark like if no power was applied to it, due to the fact that the radio or dvd player is off. If this is not the case your battery may be at fault
im not quite sure what your saying...the power for the display was simply spliced with the yellow wire going into the back of my non-bose oem headunit, the ground was just connected to the radios metal shell
#4
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Not sure if this helps, but maybe a clue. I have a Clarion. The red wire on my HU is a fused line running through the ignition. It only has power when the ignition switch is on (running or ACC). The yellow wire on my HU connects to the memory (to store presets, etc.) and is a fused line with constant power (but negligible drain on the battery). Same setup exists on my hideaway GPS. I guess that connecting anything that continuously draws power to the yellow wire (in my case) would drain the battery. As "minispider" says, the LCD could be drawing power when it’s on, but not displaying an onscreen image if it doesn’t have an active feed. --Spike
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Originally Posted by Spike100
Not sure if this helps, but maybe a clue. I have a Clarion. The red wire on my HU is a fused line running through the ignition. It only has power when the ignition switch is on (running or ACC). The yellow wire on my HU connects to the memory (to store presets, etc.) and is a fused line with constant power (but negligible drain on the battery). Same setup exists on my hideaway GPS. I guess that connecting anything that continuously draws power to the yellow wire (in my case) would drain the battery. As "minispider" says, the LCD could be drawing power when it’s on, but not displaying an onscreen image if it doesn’t have an active feed. --Spike
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Originally Posted by THE TECH
Basically you have the screen hooked up to constant power only. Definitely not the correct way to hook it up.
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your ground is fine (although I would choose another ground location besides the radio chassis), switch the power wire for your screen off the yellow constant to the red power wire. The red wire is only live with the car on.
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Originally Posted by fklentz
So, if the key is off can you turn the lcd with the remote?
Even if the Farenheit is turned off via the remote, it still tries to remain in a “ready-to-turn-on” state. So, if you connect it to a constant source of power, and turn it off, it still pulls a slight amount of power. The only way to turn it off completely is to kill its power supply (by wiring it as everyone explains here). --Spike
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Originally Posted by Spike100
Great point! ...something that I think got missed here (or at least not explained).
Even if the Farenheit is turned off via the remote, it still tries to remain in a “ready-to-turn-on” state. So, if you connect it to a constant source of power, and turn it off, it still pulls a slight amount of power. The only way to turn it off completely is to kill its power supply (by wiring it as everyone explains here). --Spike
Even if the Farenheit is turned off via the remote, it still tries to remain in a “ready-to-turn-on” state. So, if you connect it to a constant source of power, and turn it off, it still pulls a slight amount of power. The only way to turn it off completely is to kill its power supply (by wiring it as everyone explains here). --Spike
if the key is off...i can still turn it on, i guess i have isolated my issue. I will know tomorrow when i get back from out of town to see if this is a fix. THanks!
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