First Look: KPtechnologies Push Button Start
Wow, other than the order of things with foot off the brake, it basically is the factory system in the new G's. When will there be more so I can buy one?
Defiantly great work! Still prob should hook up the tach wire to the PB50 haha. I'll get on that this weekend. As for running in tachless mode the PB50 is a great module.
Defiantly great work! Still prob should hook up the tach wire to the PB50 haha. I'll get on that this weekend. As for running in tachless mode the PB50 is a great module.
Does the factory system do ACC then IGN/ACC then off? I can change that. From memory I thought it did both, then ACC. I don't have full access to a pushbutton car so I have to do a lot from memory.
Ok, I spent a few hours tweaking the program and now the ACC turns on first, then ACC and IGN, then off.
The brake input is automatically programmable to a 12vdc when pushed or a 0vdc when pushed signal. This will allow flexibility when installing the module. However, I dug a little deeper and realized the "clutch fully depressed" switch could be utilized instead of the brake switch with no modifications at all - just tap a different wire.
The RAP feature is now programmable and can be disabled easily if someone doesn't want to use that feature.
Lastly, I optimized the current consumption in idle mode so that dead batteries shouldn't be a concern. The module only powers the RFID module when someone is in the car. It detects occupency by monitoring three inputs - door pin, brake, and the start/stop button. When either of the sensors are active the RFID module turns on for a preset amount of time.
We are very close to sending out the beta test units, so we should be able to move this through quickly!
The brake input is automatically programmable to a 12vdc when pushed or a 0vdc when pushed signal. This will allow flexibility when installing the module. However, I dug a little deeper and realized the "clutch fully depressed" switch could be utilized instead of the brake switch with no modifications at all - just tap a different wire.
The RAP feature is now programmable and can be disabled easily if someone doesn't want to use that feature.
Lastly, I optimized the current consumption in idle mode so that dead batteries shouldn't be a concern. The module only powers the RFID module when someone is in the car. It detects occupency by monitoring three inputs - door pin, brake, and the start/stop button. When either of the sensors are active the RFID module turns on for a preset amount of time.
We are very close to sending out the beta test units, so we should be able to move this through quickly!
That's a good idea for manual users with the clutch switch input instead of the brake. So for the IG50 module, how many more wires are being tapped into. I'm assuming door for both RAP and idle mode, the wire (s) for the RFID receiver and then just what is used from the PB50 module. Anything else that I missed? If just those or even a few more and that sounds WICKED easy for what it does.
Sooo looking forward to this! Need anymore beta testers?
Sooo looking forward to this! Need anymore beta testers?
There is:
Door Pin Input (at the BCM)
12vdc constant power (already tapped with PB50)
ground (already tapped with PB50)
Brake input (already tapped with PB50)
Ignition Output (drives a relay)
Accessory output (drives a relay)
RFID Antenna
Status output (used to trigger OEM security bypass)
Starter output (spare signal that is active during cranking)
And thats about it. If you have the PB50 installed you will need to remove the ignition cut relay and wire in an ignition control relay as there is no need to cut the ignition any more with the IG50.
I also added some code that makes the unit beep if you leave the fob in the car after shut the car off and open the door. That was the final feature I was thinking about adding, so I guess it's officially done now!
Door Pin Input (at the BCM)
12vdc constant power (already tapped with PB50)
ground (already tapped with PB50)
Brake input (already tapped with PB50)
Ignition Output (drives a relay)
Accessory output (drives a relay)
RFID Antenna
Status output (used to trigger OEM security bypass)
Starter output (spare signal that is active during cranking)
And thats about it. If you have the PB50 installed you will need to remove the ignition cut relay and wire in an ignition control relay as there is no need to cut the ignition any more with the IG50.
I also added some code that makes the unit beep if you leave the fob in the car after shut the car off and open the door. That was the final feature I was thinking about adding, so I guess it's officially done now!
Last edited by KPierson; Jan 2, 2009 at 07:36 PM.
so 3 relays and only 3 more wires to tap and then 2 more relays and a wire, sounds good to me
Faily easy too. So excited! haha Have you disabled your steering wheel lock yet? How'd it go if ya did?
Faily easy too. So excited! haha Have you disabled your steering wheel lock yet? How'd it go if ya did?
No, I haven't. It's not going to be easy to do, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
On my '04 G35 the keyswitch is mounted in the dash by the mechanical lock that is bolted to the column. If you start messing with it I'm afraid the key cylinder won't stay supported. I don't know enough about it to bypass it easily. I do have a spare steering column that I may end up hacking up to see if I can find a quick and dirty way to bypass it, but I'm not sure. Actually, I think I will.... let me go grab it!
On my '04 G35 the keyswitch is mounted in the dash by the mechanical lock that is bolted to the column. If you start messing with it I'm afraid the key cylinder won't stay supported. I don't know enough about it to bypass it easily. I do have a spare steering column that I may end up hacking up to see if I can find a quick and dirty way to bypass it, but I'm not sure. Actually, I think I will.... let me go grab it!
OK, it's done on my spare column, now I just need to see how feasable it is to do on the one mounted in my car without taking too much apart.
There is a security screw - the type where the head breaks off when it's torqued in a certain amount - so I drilled it out. To my surprise it wasn't hardened or anything - a cheap drill bit went right threw it. I worked the hole bigger and bigger until I was able to get a bit to catch in the security bolt. At that point I reversed my drill and luckily the bolt unscrewed right out. With that screw out the key cylinder detached from the steering column.
Once I had the ignition switch off I could see the spring loaded plunger inside the shaft that connects the steering column to the ignition switch. I drilled a 5/64" hole in the back of the shaft as close to the end of the shaft (towards the plunger) that I could get. Once the bit got through the shaft I pushed the plunger all the way up and proceeded to drill a hole completely through the plunger and out the other side of the shaft. When the hole was all the way through the plunger still operated. I then pushed the plunger all the way in and pinned it with a piece of copper (solid copper wire is all I could find right now). The spring doesn't put too much tension on the plunger so I think the copper should actually hold it back. Now, all I have to do is find out what kind of threads are on this bolt so I can get a replacement. I think in my car I'm going to try and grind a slot in the head and use a flathead to remove it. I hope there is enough room to get my little air grinder in there. In the car, once the screw is removed, I hope the key cylinder comes out as easy as it did out of the car. If it does, then bypassing the wheel lock won't be a big deal.
The other option would be to shave the plunger completely down - I decided to pin it so I can revert it back to stock if I ever need to.
There is a security screw - the type where the head breaks off when it's torqued in a certain amount - so I drilled it out. To my surprise it wasn't hardened or anything - a cheap drill bit went right threw it. I worked the hole bigger and bigger until I was able to get a bit to catch in the security bolt. At that point I reversed my drill and luckily the bolt unscrewed right out. With that screw out the key cylinder detached from the steering column.
Once I had the ignition switch off I could see the spring loaded plunger inside the shaft that connects the steering column to the ignition switch. I drilled a 5/64" hole in the back of the shaft as close to the end of the shaft (towards the plunger) that I could get. Once the bit got through the shaft I pushed the plunger all the way up and proceeded to drill a hole completely through the plunger and out the other side of the shaft. When the hole was all the way through the plunger still operated. I then pushed the plunger all the way in and pinned it with a piece of copper (solid copper wire is all I could find right now). The spring doesn't put too much tension on the plunger so I think the copper should actually hold it back. Now, all I have to do is find out what kind of threads are on this bolt so I can get a replacement. I think in my car I'm going to try and grind a slot in the head and use a flathead to remove it. I hope there is enough room to get my little air grinder in there. In the car, once the screw is removed, I hope the key cylinder comes out as easy as it did out of the car. If it does, then bypassing the wheel lock won't be a big deal.
The other option would be to shave the plunger completely down - I decided to pin it so I can revert it back to stock if I ever need to.
Sounds good.....You would almost think that there should be away to have the module control the steering wheel lock, or take the factory one out and put in one that the module can control or even wire the factory one to the module. Just doing some thinking. Does that seem possible or no?
Love the new RFID Keyless Start System, but can you leave your keys in your pocket and then start it? What about making it unlock just like the new IS? Could you possibly fit that RFID inside the stock key fob? Probably have been asked but I didn't feel like reading through 8 pages.
OK, got the wheel lock in the car bypassed now - of course it wasn't near as easy in the car. I was able to grind a slot in to the bolt and remove it with no issues. However, the NATS antenna is much bigger on the '04 then the '05 and I had issues getting the cylinder assembly to come out. I fought with it for a while and eventually got it. Tomorrow I will make my first "no keys" trip in the car!
The module can't control the steering wheel lock - it is purely mechanical. On the newer push button start cars they are electronic, but that doesn't help us at all (unless someone wants to swap the entire steering assembly).
The RFID tag could possibly be left in your pocket if you get the antenna placed just right. The system, to meet design objectives, has to have a pretty short range. The benefit to the short range is the fact that once this system is installed you won't be changing batteries every few months as the keyfob is completely passive (no battery).
The keyfob is about the size of a quarter, so I doubt it will fit in an OEM keyfob - there isn't much free space inside there!
The module can't control the steering wheel lock - it is purely mechanical. On the newer push button start cars they are electronic, but that doesn't help us at all (unless someone wants to swap the entire steering assembly).
The RFID tag could possibly be left in your pocket if you get the antenna placed just right. The system, to meet design objectives, has to have a pretty short range. The benefit to the short range is the fact that once this system is installed you won't be changing batteries every few months as the keyfob is completely passive (no battery).
The keyfob is about the size of a quarter, so I doubt it will fit in an OEM keyfob - there isn't much free space inside there!
Love the new RFID Keyless Start System, but can you leave your keys in your pocket and then start it? What about making it unlock just like the new IS? Could you possibly fit that RFID inside the stock key fob? Probably have been asked but I didn't feel like reading through 8 pages.
When are you going to be selling this for the Z? Is the installation any different then the G and Z? Also how much is it going to be?
The electrical side should be the same, where things are mounted will be a bit different.
The PB50 is available now, but not on our website. We are getting ready to launch our NEW website and it will be on that site. We were aiming for a 1/1/09 launch but it's been delayed a bit. After having the same Flash based site for 4+ years it's time for us to move on to something a bit more flexible - we've simply outgrown our current site.
The IG50 is technically ready for testing but I still have some work to do for it such as building the test boards, creating installation documentation, and a few other minor little manufacturing things (like build jigs for the enclosure modifications that need to be made). The IG50 should be available just in time for spring.
We are also talking with a 3rd party company about a joint venture project that will add the option of a longer range active system. This would give people the option between the two and allow people to weight the pros and cons of each system for their own personal vehicle. It would be nice, if we strike a deal, to release both the passive IG50 and the active system at the same time.
The PB50 is available now, but not on our website. We are getting ready to launch our NEW website and it will be on that site. We were aiming for a 1/1/09 launch but it's been delayed a bit. After having the same Flash based site for 4+ years it's time for us to move on to something a bit more flexible - we've simply outgrown our current site.
The IG50 is technically ready for testing but I still have some work to do for it such as building the test boards, creating installation documentation, and a few other minor little manufacturing things (like build jigs for the enclosure modifications that need to be made). The IG50 should be available just in time for spring.
We are also talking with a 3rd party company about a joint venture project that will add the option of a longer range active system. This would give people the option between the two and allow people to weight the pros and cons of each system for their own personal vehicle. It would be nice, if we strike a deal, to release both the passive IG50 and the active system at the same time.
After you removed the steering wheel lock or rather once the plunger was pushed down did the car think that the key was in the ignition or is the plunger not responsible for that ? I can imagine it would be an issue if the car thought the key was in the ignition at all times.
No, there is a dedicated keysense wire that is controlled by a switch in the ignition switch. I didn't hook anything up to the keysense wire, although the module has a keysense output for cars that need to see a key before they will start.






