ohfourzee

iTrader: (12)

Ok, heres a little backround information. I had the Pioneer F700BT but I wasnt a huge fan. So, I replaced it with an Alpine 9853. I have a JL 10w3 powered by a JL 250/1 and CDT components up front powered by a JL 300/2. Almost ALL of the bass is being played through my components, rather than my sub. When I turn the volume up, it makes my speakers pop, and distort. I left it at the same volume and checked the sub in the rear, and it was barely moving. I have the sub level on the h/u set at the highest, 15. Any help is appreciated.

Spork

iTrader: (6)

Check your RCA connections to make sure you have them hooked up to the correct output.

ohfourzee

iTrader: (12)

I checked that already, everything is fine. Its weird. Could it just be my amp overpowering my speakers?

sincere85

iTrader: (4)

Do u know the RCA preout voltage on the new HU compared to the old. Different HU have different RCA preout voltage. This voltage determines how much u adjust the gain on the amp. It is possible that ur old HU had a higher voltage and didnt require as much gain as the new HU, which could explain why the sub is playing so low. This is just a possibility. Im not completely sure because I dont know the specs on the HU.

Spike100

I’m guessing here (so consider this just that, a guess).

It sounds as though your grounds are the problem. Check the resistance on your SubW. If it’s too high or too low, that might be the problem.

--Spike

ohfourzee

iTrader: (12)

which grounds specifically? the h/u ground?

Spike100

If I understand this correctly: You only changed the H/U, and that’s when the problem started?

The reason I mention the grounds is my experience installing an audio switcher that automatically mutes sound from the H/U and switches to the nav’s voice commands, sending the audio to the front speakers.

To make this work, I had to adjust the resistance of my grounds. Too much resistance resulted in no sound switching, and too little resistance caused “popping.”

I realize this is different from your situation, and that’s why I said I was guessing. But, it’s worth investigating.

Another common problem is a “ground loop,” where you have several devices grounded independently in close proximity.

The other thing to look at is what sincere85 mentions on your thread.
--Spike

ohfourzee

iTrader: (12)

The alpine has 2.0 vs the pioneer I had in at 2.2

And yes, all I did was swap units

Peak350

iTrader: (6)

Set the gain on the sub amp higher, adjust your HPF and LPF to accomidate.

I'm using the internal filters on the F700bt (I know why you switched, I like it but am annoyed a lot by it), and it makes a huge difference. I have my HPF for my components set to 63 hz (or maybe 75 hz), and my LPF for the sub set to 125 hz. The music sounds incomplete without the sub in the car, but sounds awesome with the sub in the car. The sub blends perfectly, and plays most of the music it is supposed to. I played with it when dialing in the settings, and I could set my HPF such that the mids hardly played anything at all.

I say play with your HPF first.

Edit - should also note. You can check a number of things on the sub side. Get a 60 hz tone, grab a multimeter, set the multimeter to AC, connect it to the output to the sub, turn the volume up pretty high (sub disconnected), and read the output from the amp. it should be output of the amp (250?) divided by the nominal resistance that output is rated at (say 2 ohms). This would give you 125 V, if you read say 60 V, you need to gain the amp up.

Also, do research on what clipping is, using the internal gains on a headunit can cause clipping and you could severely damage a speaker.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

right, gain is not a damn volume ****