mofoz

iTrader: (1)

Im lookin to upgrade the sound in my track, and i was plannin on goin with a sony HU, and a storage bay cause of the dual din. IM lookin for what sizes the speakers are, and from what i have read its 4 speakers all around the same size, is this correct? My Z is comin some time in Oct so i cant exactly go to the garage and measure. Im lookin for some good sounding speakers, and putting a sub in the stock sub spot. Whats everone got, or what do you suggest. I dont want anything to insane, but i love music, and drive a whole lot so its almost a neccessity. Any help would be appreciated. Also, any suggestions on an amp for the sub and the speakers.

peptidbond

iTrader: (2)

Okay, here are all the tips and tricks that I think you will need to know. As for choosing speakers and what not, my suggestions might not be what others would suggest.

Speakers: 6.5" all around. And I mean 6.5, not 6.25 or 6.75. If you go 6.25 or 6.75 for the rears, they will not fit the stock hole. Too small and you will not be able to get enough screws in. Too big and you will have to make a mounting bracket which may push the speaker into the stock grill, which is not replaceable.

In the front, you will have to make a spacer or chop apart the stock speaker and use that as a spacer. I would suggest making one out of 3/4" MDF. You can use the stock speaker as a template. When you cut the center out for the new speaker, make it heavy off center to one side. This will ensure that the magnet does not touch the window (reason for the spacer in the firtst place).

Choice of speakers is up to you.

For mounting, but the Metra 350Z mounting kit. Also buy the Metra wiring harness for 95 and up Nissans. When wiring, make sure you hook up the "power antenna" lead to the "amp turn-on" lead from the new head unit. The car does not have a power antenna, but it does have a antenna amplifier. Without this connection, you radio reception will be horrible.

For the stock sub, this gets tricky. You can use a free air sub in the stock location. The car will come with the sub mounting panel, but you will need to buy the sub cover from Courtesyparts.com ($5). However, from what I have read, free air subs in the stock location lack punch, rattle, and sound like mud. I would suggest getting an Infinity Basslink and placing it inside the stock location. It is a amplified 10" boxed speaker (sorta like a Bazooka tube, but square). A few people here have done this and I plan to also. It fits decently well with only minor headaches. The only other choice is to build a custom box if you want the stock location. That is a whole other matter, and headache.

Don't forget the tweaters at the top of the door. If you want to keep the stock ones, they will continue to work if you use the stock wiring. However, they can be disconnected and replaced. Do your own research on this because there are a million options. I cut holes in my door panels and mounted new tweeters. The stock ones remain in place, disconnected.

Hope this helps. You certainly will want to replace the stock system. It really sucks.

BrickydZ

iTrader: (22)

Ditto on everything you said above, peptidbond

Also dont ruleout a double din HU like the Sony
WX-7700MDX. It looks good and fills up everything.

http://www.melting-pot.com/website/p...WX7700MDX.html

The only way to decide on your speakers is to listen to as many as you can. Each set and manufacture has a little difference setting or tweak to theirs, so listen listen listen and then make up your mind.

But peptidbond is absolutely right on about size and spacers. And you probably will need to just disconnect the stock tweeters. In the aftermarket set up you will find they over power the rest of the mix. I drove for 3 weeks with them on, and finally said no more. Had them take off the door panels again and unhook them. Best decision I made.

I too investigated the basslink(Good Choice), and decided on the free air sub. I didnt need nor want a lot of bass.

I decided to use the free space behind the sub for my amps. I got two new 200 watt Blaupunkt amps since they were very low heat. Installed them behind the sub, behind the driver seat, and then the Courtesy Nissan Bose cover and it is stealth. Till you turn it on.

Dont rule out the Alpine HUs and if your looking to get a MP3 player consider adding a Kenwood Music Keg. I have a 20GB with nearly 1800 songs and it is barely half full. Navigation is sometimes tireing but the convenience of 1800 songs without 200 CDs is marvelous.

Take Care.

peptidbond

iTrader: (2)

BrickydZ is also right on. However, regarding MP3, I would go a different way (and I am, too).

I went with a HU that can play MP3 and it only cost me $200. They have to be on disc, but my 2000 song collection can be stored on 20 or so discs (I use high-quality, big sized, VBR rips). But this is only the intermediate solution.

The HU I chose has a AUX IN jack on the front of it. This is where I will hook up my future purchase: a 20GB iPod. Why an iPod and not the Kenwood music keg? Well, the keg can only be used in the car and requires a Kenwood headunit (I think). The iPod can be used anywhere and hooks up easy (no install). Also, it can be upgraded and used with any number of head units.

As an aside, the Sony HU that BrickydZ mentions above is beautiful. However, I think that it is 1.5 DIN and it CANNOT play MP3 discs. Although, it might have an AUX IN jack, but I don't really know.

mofoz

iTrader: (1)

ya, im not worried about mp3 playback, even though the music keg looks damn cool, i have a 30 gig iPod already, and i love it. I would have to spend another $500 for a keg, and i would rather put in better speakers and a better HU. Thanks for all the replies, anyone have anything else? Also, any sites you would recommend with good prices for equipment?

peptidbond

iTrader: (2)

www.onlinecarstereo.com has excellent prices and a good site. I have not purchased from them though, but I did order and then cancel. There service is good that their return/exchange/warranty policies seem balanced and fair.

There is always www.crutchfield.com for the Metra kits and other stuff. Their electronics are sometimes cheaper than retail.

For installation goods, try www.installer.com. Have not ordered from them either, but they have all the installation stuff you could need.

I am sure there are others.

BrickydZ

iTrader: (22)

I just merely pointed out the Sony as an example of the Double Dins. It might appeal to someone and most people forget about them.

I went with an Alpine7995 because I thought the sound was better than the competitors, had a built in sub controller and RCA AUX IN for my Keg.

I use the Kenwood FM Modulator for a controller and hard wired the Keg output for a better sound. I going to keep it only until Kenwood releases the 915 DVD LCD. It has a touch screen DVD screen and is a multiline controller for the keg. That piece should be great.

As for the iPod it is a cool item. Well made and sounds great.
I choose the Keg because of its changable cartridges. I bought an extra 20gb cartridge for a backup, that I havent even filled yet.

Enclosed is a picture of my metra kit, and Alpine set up

MrGraphics

I just don't understand why the keg controls are so small. Couldn't they have made it a full 1 din? I'm not bashing your install, because it looks very clean and I bet it sounds great; but I am obsessed with symetry, and the keg control just doesn't fit.

Its a real pet peeve of mine.

BrickydZ

iTrader: (22)

I tend to agree with you but it was either the FM MOD or a Kenwood HU with the KEG, and pardon to everione, I didnt think the HU had what it takes.

What I am waiting for is the Kenwood 915 DVD LCD screen. It will look similar to the KM700 pic I have enclosed, but unlike the M700, or the 910/911 DVD players, it will have space for 10 lines of Keg Disc, page up and down for quick touch sensitive naviation of the keg.

IMO that will really be great. I must admit the single line FM MOD gets old. At least it does have disc name annoucements.

See ya.

mofoz

iTrader: (1)

i went to one of if not the best car audio shops in town, and i told him i was gonna replace my stock soundsystem with new 6.5s all around and a new HU as well. I choose a Sony HU and picked out some good but reasonable MB Quart References for the Fronts and some MB Disscus for the Rears. This i fealt would be the best combination of sound quality and price. the HU has 52x4 output so i wasnt going to add an amp right away. With al of this as well as install which goes for $60 an hour, its about $800. I wanted to spend around $700 but this is acceptable. Then he asks if i was gonna put in a sub. I said ya, eventually, and he starts adding up the sub costs, and after its all said and done, to add a good sub, a good 5 chanel amp, and wiring and for all of the above, it said it was 10hrs of install(for $600 mind you) it came to a whopping $2500. I was like ok. What i want to know is what i could change to get that price down. Most likely a different sub, as well as a different amp. They were gonna build a custom box and mount the amp to it as well in the corner of the trunk under the strut bar. The amp they had picked out was a Kicker Car amp with 65x4/400x1 with a L7 kicker car sub 10". I know these are all top qual components, but i dont have $2500 to drop on stereo install. I wish i did, but i cant. What kind off sound could i expect from the stereo if i just replace all the 6.5s and the new sony HU. I know i wont have pounding bass, but will it be even audible that bass exisists? or is it something that really needs a sub. the guy working there seemed very knowledgeable and told me they have just done this same system to another nissan 350Z and it pounded and sounded amazing. My plan is to eventually put in a sub and an amp but only spend around $700 lateron when i have the money. Any suggestions on a good sub/amp combo to compliment this system? Thanks for all your guy's help

peptidbond

iTrader: (2)

Here is my suggestion for something cheaper than you have selected, but would still sound good.

Go with the speakers and HU you selected. Also, ditch the 5 channel amp and the custom sub. Instead, run the speakers off of the HU. The car is small and if you do not listen to the music at a deafening level, then the HU should supply plenty of power. Personally, I would avoid Sony since every Sony item I have bought died right after warranty.

As for the sub, just go with an Infinity BassLink. As I mentioned above, it is a powered 200W sub that is already in an enclosure. It is kinda link a Bazooka tube, but better and square. From what I understand, they sound great and have plenty of power for the normal Z driver. This is the route I am taking.

Here is how it would price out:
HU, Quart's, and install: $800 (your price)
Basslink: $260 @ Circuit City ($150-200 on eBay).
Basslink install behind driver (2 hours plus parts): $200

Total cost: $1260 + tax
Results: pretty darn good without being ridiculous. Plus, everything except the HU will be stealth. With the sub behind the driver in the stock location, there will be nothing to see from the outside that says "STEAL ME".

mofoz

iTrader: (1)

thanks for your suggestion, im definetly gonna look into the basslink, because i have been reading a bunch of forums, and i have heard nothing but good things.

TCL

Interesting. The Crutchfield website shows 6 3/4" for the rears (for a non-bose car with navigation). Are you sure 6 3/4" wont fit?

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

As a track owner who upgraded his stock headunit with MB Quart discus 6.5 components up front and a U.S. Acoustics USX-2100 amp (2 channel amp w/100 watts side) to power them, I'd second peptidbond's suggestion.

The improvement from the properly matched speaker/amp system is incredible. I kept the rear speakers stock for rear fill only. It's a cheaper solution and has two other advantages: minimal weight with good weight distribution for true track use and being totally invisible to "prying eyes".

You obviously want more thump and the sub is probably mandatory. But, the sound staging up front is ideal for a small 2-passenger car like the Z. My final comment is from a friend who has a $3-4K sound system in his M3 and he is impressed with what my Z upgrade sounds like. I am too!

Z4KR

Just checked Basslink at ccity and it was $350!!!!
I am curious ... how hard is it to install the Basslink in the original stock location? If not too hard, then I might try to do it myself. Thx!

bastard

The only thing difficult would be figuring out a way to mount it WITHOUT drilling into the floor inside the stock location--the gas tank is under it. You would have to make a bracket or shelf to do this. I assume it hooks up just like an amplifier would--remote lead, rcas, ground and power, so that's all pretty straightforward.

I would run a length of power cable from the battery, through the big bubble grommet under the windshield, along the passenger side door sill, and then into the glovebox area from there. There's a nice little plastic channel thing along the door sill to run the wire through and a nice rounded off hole in the sheet metal between the passenger seatbelt and glovebox. For the ground, there's two nice 10mm bolts on the drivers side wall inside the sub location--make sure you sand the paint off where your ground connects to the sheet metal. RCA and remote lines should be run along the transmission tunnel. Again, there's a really nice rounded off hole for the wires to come through around where the power plug is.

All told, it's fairly straightforward to do an install on this car, and in some aspects, it's actually ridiculously easy compared to some that I have worked on. The only thing that really sucked was installing components in the doors.