Head unit replacement
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: chicago
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Head unit replacement
I'm trying to connect something on the back of my head unit does anybody knows where to find a step by step guide to do so. The one that seems to be in this web site is not accessible anymore thanks...
#4
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Unless you want to spend a stupid amount of time figuring out which wire does what, go with a harness adapter that's specific to your application (i.e., 2005(?) 350z to Pioneer HU). You can buy one on Crutchfield.com or any number of reputable online establishments and they cost hardly anything. It makes the job a lot easier. Also, do it right the first time and use solder and shrink tubing, not crimp connectors.
#5
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Thanks a lot!!!
Have you ever installed aftermarket HU before ?
If you did, how long does it take to do that ?
Have you ever installed aftermarket HU before ?
If you did, how long does it take to do that ?
Unless you want to spend a stupid amount of time figuring out which wire does what, go with a harness adapter that's specific to your application (i.e., 2005(?) 350z to Pioneer HU). You can buy one on Crutchfield.com or any number of reputable online establishments and they cost hardly anything. It makes the job a lot easier. Also, do it right the first time and use solder and shrink tubing, not crimp connectors.
#6
New Member
Do your research before starting the job. Get whatever tools you need before you start. You're not going to need any "special" tools on the Z; just a 12" #2 phillips screwdriver and a simple metric driver or socket set. A magnetic retriever tool helps out if you drop a screw into the netherworld behind the dash. Remove any CDs you have in your factory HU before removing it (I learned that the hard way). Also, be sure you have your Metra or Scosche trim kit purchased. To do a simple factory to aftermarket HU swap, I usually give it about an hour or two.
Disconnect the battery, remove the necessary trim pieces, pull out and disconnect the factory HU, then wire up and install the new HU and do a test run before securing it to the car. Reconnect the battery and use your balance and fader settings to make sure that your speakers are hooked up right. Check the radio signal and ancillary devices (Ipod, etc.) as well. Then turn it off, triple check all your connections, secure the stereo to your Metra or Scosche trim kit and put everything back together.
Of course, once you start talking about FULL installs with new speakers, wires, Dynamat, amp racks, power supplies, steering wheel remotes, etc., it can take many days. I would strongly recommend a full rip-apart and install if you're dealing with a factory Bose system. I say this because it's almost impossible to make dog$hit smell good.
Some advice:
1. Put a double (or triple) layer of blue painter's tape on any plastic trim piece you don't want to scratch. There is a strong likelihood that there will be metal to plastic contact and if you don't do that, you'll be kicking yourself later.
2. You'll have to remove the shifter **** to get the shifter/climate control trim piece removed. This leaves a big metal rod exposed, waiting to scratch anything it can touch. Simple solution: get a tennis ball, cut a half-inch X on it and slide it down the shifter pole. It actually gives you something to rest the stereo on when you're pulling plugs and it keeps you from damaging the expensive-to-replace shift ****.
3. Be extra careful when you remove the HVAC controller unit. It's a tight fit and the plugs are hard to get to. Use a small flat-head screwdriver to depress the connector locks; it makes it a lot easier to pull out the connectors. Do your best to not damage the ribbon cable that connects the controller (white box) to the dials on the trim piece.
4. Be gentle with everything. Follow the how-to on this site and if you're going to use your passenger seat as a shelf for anything, put a towel or some cardboard over it first. There are sharp pointy things that would be more than happy to ruin your day. Just use common sense. The interior trim in the Z is a scratch magnet (but you already know that).
5. There will likely be a bit of cramming going on when you put the new HU in. Be preemptive to avoid rattling wires after everything is put back together. Get some peel-and-stick felt sheets from your local home improvement store, cut to size and and attach them to the plastic panels behind where the HU sits. This will prevent about 95% of the rattles you're likely to get. Also, zip tie any loose wires so that they're bundled tight and not bouncing around back there.
6. Use a medium-strength thread locker on your shift **** thread when you re-attach it.
If you have any doubt about your abilities, ask a friend who's done it before for help or get it installed professionally. Personally, I've never seen a professional install that's been as good as an install done by an owner, but I'm sure there are good professional installers out there if you're willing to pay a bit more. I've seen some real crap jobs from places like Circuit City and Car Toys where they used crimp connectors that came loose after a year or two.
Really, it's not a difficult thing to do. Have fun.
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#8
New Member
I have no idea about the video bypass on the Pioneer HU. On my JVC, it was as simple as splicing the e-brake wire into the HU ground wire. Video is enabled all the time (not that I watch it while I drive, but it keeps my wife occupied on long trips).
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