Well, after reading all the DIY stereo install instructions and having hung around enough car audio shops, I decided to give installing a complete system a try. I had some problems initially with routing the speaker wires into the doors, but after some practice, I think I can now do a door in less than 30 minutes. Thanks to all who have provided such good DIY guides. Although it was time consuming, I had fun along the way.

My choice of components consists of:
Headunit: Kenwood KDC-MP922 (may soon be replaced by the new double din lcd unit)
Amp: Xtant X603
Front speakers: MB Quart QM218.61
Rear speakers: MB Quart RKC116
Subwoofer: Image Dynamics IDQ10D2V2 installed in the OEM sub location
HDD player: Kenwood Music Keg
Sound Deadening: Dynamat Extreme in the doors and OEM sub compartment

Overall the sound is much better in terms of definition, clarity and imaging. The bass was better than expected. It is not bad considering that I only have 1 10 inch freeair sub with 150 watts powering it. It is rather punchy but does not go very deep. I may have to change it into a MDF or fiberglass enclosure. Any comments or questions are welcome.

Here is a picture of the headunit closed:

 

Here is the headunit opened:

 

Here is the amp which barely fit behind the passenger glove box area. I had to remove the glove box in order for the amp to fit and for ventilation.

 

Here is the QM separates in the stock locations with dynamat of the door panel:

 

Here is the Kenwood Music Keg mounted in the Nav compartment with factory trim plate:

 

I've got the Kenwood Deck and Music Keg combo also. I'm wanting to put at least one 10" sub in. I want to build a box behind the driver's seat so it will hit hard. I'm not sure if there's enough room to get the recommended volume. I want to put a second 10" sub behind the driver's seat, but I'm not sure where to put the amp. I was going to put the keg in the glovebox, but since you've demonstarted that it can be put in one of the compartments, I may do that. I've also thought about putting one ten behind the driver, and the other in the space to the left of the spare tire like that one guy did. Then I could put the amp(s) in the glove box like you did. I could stack them if I put in two. Thanks for the pics and ideas!

Stan

 

how did you get the power back to the amp? Did you run it all the way from the engine compartment? Or is there a source somewhere else?

 

I liked your post about your DIY install. That is what I am doing and am enjoying it so far. Next for me is my amp and was wondering how you mounted yours?

Thanks for the info.
Rob

 

Thanks for all the comments. To answer your questions,

I followed the guide in this thread https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=26618

It was fairly straight forward. I used a 4 gauge wire and it was not a problem getting it through the firewall. I used rear cigarette lighter wire for the amp turn on.


I was afraid to drill into the floor because of the proximity to the fuel tank. I used a large piece of 3/4 inch mdf to mount the amp on. I then used brackets to attach the mdf to the metal frame of the car behind the passenger seat belt as well as the metal frame around the glove box opening in the front. Since the mdf is still sitting on the floor of the car, I just made sure it would not move around.

 

I have bought four brackets with which to mount the amp. I'll let you in on the set up to help you visualise my idea.

The whole concept is all about stealth and not moving in on the less than existing space available in the car. I want to put the amp behind the driver's seat, recessed enough to allow the subwoofer. I know many on this forum are against this, but note my two premises above. I would also Dynomat around the whole area. I was looking in the area in question, wondering where I would mount the brackets. Which holes did you mount the amp? How many brackets? 2, 3, 4? Any details would be nice because once the car's apart, it will be apart for a wee bit. Does the MDF kinda hover in there or does it really sit on the floor of the cavity?

Thanks,
Rob

 

Rob:

There are several different areas within the space that you can use to mount the MDF. I ended up using 3 points. 1) I chose the outer metal side wall. There are a few holes there already but I actually ended up drilling new ones because I wanted to mount as flat as possible. 2) I also used the middle divider and bolted a more flexible bracket to it. Lastly you can use either the preexisting brackets at the top (I ended up not using these because I did not have large brackets which fit well) as well as 3)the mounting holes surrounding the front opening. I did not have access to fabricate my own brackets so I just bought several different types from Home Depot and used pliers to bend them into the desired shapes. I tried to seat the MDF as much as possible on the uneven floor but it would fall out of position if not for the brackets. With all 3 brackets the board was fairly secure partially on the floor.

Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Congratulations on a good job. Must not have been your first. I like the way that you've done your door. Nice spacer. Good job.