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Track Junkies w/ VQs - Is an oil cooler a must have?

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Old 10-12-2009, 05:02 PM
  #101  
Zazz93
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Originally Posted by Ataru074
I pretty much self assembled the setup that GTM sells using a setrab 19 row cooler and the same mocal thermostatic adapter.
I have a VQ35HR
What are the dimensions of the cooler? (roughly)
Old 10-12-2009, 05:46 PM
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Also, Anyone know if there is a oil temp gauge for one of the Z33 models.
Old 10-13-2009, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by guitman32
He asked if the temp ranges listed were for a warmed up engine. What you're saying confirms what I said - if you're getting 15 psi at idle, you're definitely warmed up and not on cold oil.
yes, but it really takes a while to warm up in "regular driving condition".
Old 10-13-2009, 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Zazz93
What are the dimensions of the cooler? (roughly)
roughly? reputable companies provide all the info you need.
http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/ProLine-Dims-Apps.pdf

the 19 row I have is the p/n 50-619-7612.
Old 10-14-2009, 12:01 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by Ataru074
roughly? reputable companies provide all the info you need.
http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/ProLine-Dims-Apps.pdf

the 19 row I have is the p/n 50-619-7612.
Thanks!
Old 06-12-2012, 05:51 PM
  #106  
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Bumping an old thread.. but I (finally) got my oil temp gauge installed via AAM oil pan spacer.. and (finally) got back out the track. It's a local 1.5 mile course on a warm 80degree cloudy day. I saw oil temps above 280F in my '06 revup.

Now I know why oil analysis saw my 10w30 oil being sheered down to a 20W. Just an example of what temps your oil is seeing on a track day.

so yeah.. I'm starting to shop.
Old 06-12-2012, 11:57 PM
  #107  
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Mine was hitting 280-300+ consistently after a few laps regardless of the temps outside, my oil cooler is on its way
Old 06-13-2012, 12:17 AM
  #108  
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Wow thats hot, guess i need to get my gauge installed, its been sitting at home for the past 4 years.
Old 06-13-2012, 06:58 AM
  #109  
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A lot depends on where you're reading the oil temps. If 280F is the oil temp as its getting back into the pan then that's not a bad number. If 280F is the temp of the oil coming out of the pan and into the engine then you need to cool it down.

Also, regarding the oil analysis showing the base viscosity at 20W for a 10W-30 oil; isn't the base oil viscosity the lower number (10) and the additive package is what increases the viscosity to 30 when the polymer chains unwind due to heat?
Old 06-13-2012, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by betamotorsports
A lot depends on where you're reading the oil temps. If 280F is the oil temp as its getting back into the pan then that's not a bad number. If 280F is the temp of the oil coming out of the pan and into the engine then you need to cool it down.

Also, regarding the oil analysis showing the base viscosity at 20W for a 10W-30 oil; isn't the base oil viscosity the lower number (10) and the additive package is what increases the viscosity to 30 when the polymer chains unwind due to heat?
I think I misspoke with my comment above 'sheering down to 20W' - Blackstone noted a lower viscosity number (than normal) on the oil that I had analyzed. Sorry for the confusion there.

My 280F+ reading was from the sensor sitting in the oil pan (spacer). (Defi gauge and sensor).
Old 06-13-2012, 05:42 PM
  #111  
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I know the best place to have the sensor is in the pan, but I just have mine in a sandwich plate, not sure how accurate that spot is, but when I installed it, I figured it was better than nothing
Old 06-14-2012, 07:32 AM
  #112  
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If possible, the best place to check oil temp is coming out of the cooler back into the engine. That will help determine if the cooler has enough capacity.
Old 06-27-2012, 01:37 PM
  #113  
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My sensor on my oil temp gauge is where the oil filter sits and my temps
Get to about 260f or so. Is my sensor in an accurate place?
Old 06-28-2012, 01:53 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by betamotorsports
If possible, the best place to check oil temp is coming out of the cooler back into the engine. That will help determine if the cooler has enough capacity.

I will have to try that
Old 06-28-2012, 08:16 AM
  #115  
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As I posted in another thread, when monitoring oil (or any temp) is:

1. The change in temp - does it rise and stabilize or continue to rise?
2. The rate of change - steady of spikey?
3. The actual temp.

Notice the actual temp is the least important.

If the temp rises and stabilizes then there's enough BTU capacity in the cooling system. It might stabilize at a temp that you consider too high, but the system is working.

If the temp continues to rise then there is not enough BTU capacity and the system needs to be changed.

If the system rises at a steady linear pace then its well damped and the heat exchange is occurring. If the system spikes then there is air in the system and/or the heat exchanger is shrouded and not working properly.

If the actual temp is too high (or too low) then increase/decrease air or fluid flow through the heat exchanger or increase/decrease the heat exchanger capacity.

Data logging is the best way to evaluate this. If you can't do that, then check and log the oil temp at least once per lap in the exactly same place on track. Its better if you check in two place on track every lap.

Last edited by betamotorsports; 06-28-2012 at 08:18 AM.
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