ST/SU Build
#264
Got the cage in for some fitting, it was designed to be further back so it still needs to be cut...fits pretty well where it is not sure if I should keep it or move it... thoughts? The picture is where it sits now, was originally going to put it by the fuel pump housing. Like in the attached photo.
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Dblock55 (04-08-2016)
The following 2 users liked this post by armt350z:
90nissanS13 (04-08-2016),
Dblock55 (04-08-2016)
#267
Haha that LED light did have a plastic cover around it for about 2 seconds... been working for 3 years without it though, cant complain.
Was thinking bulkhead would be stronger, thanks for the confirmation. The only reason I was thinking of mounting it to the floor is for the door bracing... could the lower portion of the x will have to start pretty high if the hoop is mounted to the bulkhead.
#273
Shame on me.... i dont. My boss always says, an engineer without data is just another guy with an opinion. Without CADing it up I really cant confirm this theory, but I may just do it just to test the theory. Im going off of the general principal of bracing a flexing member. If you think of a cantilever beam, the higher the angle of the support the stronger the support. Obviously a chassis is way more complex than a cantilever beam loaded from a single point but for the sake of arguement, if you flex the front of the chassis relative to the rear the x brace will resist the flex, a tube that is in the same plane as the load will help a bit as the top bar will be placed in compression and the bottom in tension (or vice versa depending on the direction of the load), but since its parallel to the reference plane it wont be as effective as the x. Dunno if this is comprehensible lol.
#274
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Ahhh, Ok your referring specifically to chassis rigidity. I could see that, I was thinking you were talking about to rigidity of the bars in a side impact crash sequence. You could create a Nascar door bad that is compression loaded and improve upon the neutral loaded X bar. But it would require additional bars going from the main hoop to the back and front. Some of the Nascar bars that also connect into the door frame would probably be more stiff, but almost unanimously forbidden by most all sanctioning bodies.
I would run a Nascar bar on mine if I could, but FIA only allows X sadly.
Here is a 2012 cup car chassis, the door bars are loaded in compression and would likely resist any torquing of the chassis. Also any side impact would try to push the main hoop rearward, which is supported by the further bracing at the node.
I would run a Nascar bar on mine if I could, but FIA only allows X sadly.
Here is a 2012 cup car chassis, the door bars are loaded in compression and would likely resist any torquing of the chassis. Also any side impact would try to push the main hoop rearward, which is supported by the further bracing at the node.
#275
Ahhh, Ok your referring specifically to chassis rigidity. I could see that, I was thinking you were talking about to rigidity of the bars in a side impact crash sequence. You could create a Nascar door bad that is compression loaded and improve upon the neutral loaded X bar. But it would require additional bars going from the main hoop to the back and front. Some of the Nascar bars that also connect into the door frame would probably be more stiff, but almost unanimously forbidden by most all sanctioning bodies.
I would run a Nascar bar on mine if I could, but FIA only allows X sadly.
Here is a 2012 cup car chassis, the door bars are loaded in compression and would likely resist any torquing of the chassis. Also any side impact would try to push the main hoop rearward, which is supported by ....
I would run a Nascar bar on mine if I could, but FIA only allows X sadly.
Here is a 2012 cup car chassis, the door bars are loaded in compression and would likely resist any torquing of the chassis. Also any side impact would try to push the main hoop rearward, which is supported by ....
#279
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
It was a regular plug in type drill. I had to add a 1/8" shim the bracket that holds the tube so it was perfectly centered to the drill bit. Also buy some quality hole saw bits like a lenox and dont forget to lube up the shaft, since its using brass bushings instead of bearings like a high quality unit would have.
#280
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Here is the notcher I use, I also just saw a 20% off coupon code for a single item from harbor freight in my email. Coupon code says its for today only.
Notcher : http://www.harborfreight.com/pipe-tu...her-42324.html
Coupon code : 56391896
Notcher : http://www.harborfreight.com/pipe-tu...her-42324.html
Coupon code : 56391896
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Dblock55 (04-10-2016)