DIY - SPL Compression Rod Bushing Install - Page 4 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 10-03-2011, 07:36 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
The SPL bushing is hands down the best for the compression rod....

if your daily driving on a super lowered car or a car thats lowered slightly with huge 20 inch rims, then your gonna probably be hearing noise/clunks from when you hit bumps, etc...IMHO thats better than having torn oem bushings and crappy alignment causing crappy tire wear.....thus having to replace tires sooner..

the spl compression rod bushing is a friction free bushing, there is no oem rubber there to fight your steering inputs..

JUST FYI:
If your daily driving on a super lowered car = a car that's lowered slightly with huge 20 inch rims,

Those two are equal...they both equate to a compresson rod that is pointed UPWARDS due to the car being lowered....due to the suspension being altered with the configuration change combination of lowering and or bigger wheels..

This is hard to explain....

-J
Not at all. I know what you mean. I was running the SPL compression rod bushings, but ended up pressing them out and reinstalling new oem bushings. The slight gain in slop is worth to me the lack of constant knocking. If I end up tracking my car more next year I might rethink my decision and push the SPL bushings back in. For now they will sit on my desk as long as I daily my car or until SPL comes up with something to make the damn things less noisy.

As a side note my car is slightly lowered on hipermax coils at about a 1 finger gap tire to fender...no huge drop here
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Old 12-24-2011, 01:49 PM   #62
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Hey Row2K I know what you mean by the bushings being too noisy for DD, but read this post to find out how to stop that.

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ml#post9531795
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Old 01-03-2012, 07:11 PM   #63
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great DIY, very helpful. Me and my friend knocked this task out in no time, and hes a tech so he was able to use his press for my bushings, just had to leave the car on stands overnight.
I only test drove it for a few minutes and they make a little noise. But hey, i guess the price to pay to be low

Thanks


Edit: After driving on it for a bit, i can definitely notice the noise. shiz is all loud, sounds like somethings looks but i doubled checked to make sure everything was tight.

Last edited by DjTyfightr; 01-10-2012 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:17 AM   #64
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nvm

Last edited by DjTyfightr; 01-17-2012 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 01-27-2012, 08:10 AM   #65
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I didn't see it mentioned but Whiteline now sells the compression rod bushings. I just ordered a set.

OP Hella job on all the DYI you have done!
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:52 AM   #66
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I ended up calling SPL about the compression rod bushing o-rings and they were kind enough to send them to me free of charge (these guys are great). Looking forward to reinstalling them especially after my tire feather seems to have come back from the grave after I re-installed my floppydonkeydick loose oem bushings back.
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:05 PM   #67
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I can't get the arm off even though I got the bolts out eventully. I had to cut one of the bolts since it wouldn't come out no matter what. ****ing winter, salt and grime makes everything stuck.

Any suggestions how to get the arm off. Could I use something like this.
http://www.tooloutlet.fi/product_pic...-jalkainen.jpg
or should I just buy a bigger prybar?
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:13 PM   #68
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I guess I made some progress. I managed to press out the arm, but the bushing stayed on I had a 6 feet bar that I twisted as hard as I could and nothing happened. I got the tool from the post ^^^. I put a bolt at the end of the stud and attached a socket to the press and voila the arm came out and bushing stayed. So now just I got to just cut and chisel...
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:20 PM   #69
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I'm running the energy compression bushings and they were noisy on day one but smooth as butter after that...highly recommended if you can't stand the SPL noise
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:39 PM   #70
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i installed my spl compression rod bushings with machined spacers. question for anyone with experience installing these, is the cone spacer suppose to line up perfectly with the metal underbrace and 19mm nut? look at pics of mine looks slightly off centered. torqued everything to specs:


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Old 05-20-2013, 05:38 AM   #71
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Cross-linking to my thread.
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Old 05-25-2013, 04:43 PM   #72
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Quick tip - it's much easier to put the ball joint back in place first and screw down the nut almost all the way, then attach the bushing side to the stud coming out of the car. I spent way too long trying to do it the other way, including jacking up the hub to try and get the ball joint into place, then it took all of 30 seconds when I did it ball joint first.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:52 PM   #73
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^ of course, becuase you used a rubber bushing that fights the movement of the arm.....those rubber compression rod bushings (armstrongdist, etc) dont let the compression arm move and pivot as it should...

now your steering rack is gonna work harder - keep an eye on the passenger side seal of the steering rack -- IT WILL LEAK!

hands down the SPL bushing for the compression rod is the best.....noise is noise,, get over it....

everything comes with a trade off...have fun fixing the rack later..

also, ive posted on this before...
-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 05-25-2013 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:00 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Row2K View Post

As a side note my car is RIDICULOUSLY lowered on hipermax coils at about a 1 finger gap tire to fender...
fixed...

dude, you lowered the body, thus forcing the compression arm to point upwards due to the chassis being lowered..you didnt magically lengthen the arm, redesign it or change its mounting points...you pretty much took upstroke out of the equation......it is what it is....of course the spl is gonna knock --- its gonna knock everytime you run out of upstroke in suspension travel AT THE compression arm to chassis contact and make noise....

again, its a trade off....dont blame spl parts for noise when they are used by those that dont understand them..

the suspension on a car is a fully dynamic member...the spl compression bushing, the ball joint at the end are designed to be frictionless moving points,

--from there if you get spl upper a-arms then the chassis mount points are also rodends that are fully frictionless....the other end is a tapered cone ball joint at the top of the SLA knuckle curved arm.

-then the translink with an spl bushing at the k-member - because the other end of the translink is a ball joint to the bottom of the knuckle.....with that done - the suspension moves freely and frictionless...

think about it..
-J
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:03 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
fixed...

dude, you lowered the body, thus forcing the compression arm to point upwards due to the chassis being lowered..you didnt magically lengthen the arm, redesign it or change its mounting points...you pretty much took upstroke out of the equation......it is what it is....of course the spl is gonna knock --- its gonna knock everytime you run out of upstroke in suspension travel AT THE compression arm to chassis contact and make noise....

again, its a trade off....dont blame spl parts for noise when they are used by those that dont understand them..

the suspension on a car is a fully dynamic member...the spl compression bushing, the ball joint at the end are designed to be frictionless moving points,

--from there if you get spl upper a-arms then the chassis mount points are also rodends that are fully frictionless....the other end is a tapered cone ball joint at the top of the SLA knuckle curved arm.

-then the translink with an spl bushing at the k-member - because the other end of the translink is a ball joint to the bottom of the knuckle.....with that done - the suspension moves freely and frictionless...

think about it..
-J
what the hell are you talking about...1 finger GAP fender to tire is barely any drop. Stock is about 2finger gap. Please stop pretending that just because you post in this thread and started the Suspension101 thread you actually know what you are talking about. I'm not running out of upstroke, not even remotely f-ing close, to even suggest that really points to your lack of knowledge. Just as an FYI the bushings made noise GOING OVER ROAD JOINTS, that means basically MINIMAL if any compression.

I fully know and understand what's going on in the front suspension geometry and I will continue to knock SPL components for the crap they are. I've said this before and I'll say it again, once they begin to wear they develop excessive noise and slop; my passanger side bushing was so bad that when I removed it there was visible slop in the joint. I was able to wiggle the bushing side to side inside its joint and not on its axis of rotation. I have a youtube video of this if you want me to post it, where you can visibly see the issue.

So in short, i know what I'm talking about...because engineer. Don't attempt to insult someone's intelligence just because you made a bunch of sometimes poorly thought out posts.

And also:

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA View Post
the suspension on a car is a fully dynamic member...the spl compression bushing, the ball joint at the end are designed to be frictionless moving points,
-J
-This sounds like a marketing pitch from a sales rep pushing equipment who doesn't know what the F he is talking about - Source: I deal with ppl like you on a daily basis
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:36 PM   #76
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Bumping old thread. Bought whiteline bushings for my compression rods. Took them to my buddy who works at a shop with a press since I didn't feel like taking everything off and having to haul the stuff to a shop anyway. They can't remove the rods from the car. They didn't want to damage the frame studs and the rods are virtually welded on there...

any ideas??

EDIT:

Saw this thread...

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...wrong-fml.html

Not sure I feel comfortable burning the bushing off, so I guess it's PB blaster for a few days and see what happens.

Last edited by BriGuyMax; 08-08-2013 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:39 AM   #77
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Default arms stuck to studs

Hey i just replaced my compression arms for reasons other than installing the SPL bushings but mine were pretty much seized on. after hurting myself a bunch i saw a big 36 inch plumbers monkey wrench. You know the big red ones that are used to remove big pipes. just got it on the bottom lip of the bushing and turned it back and forth until it came off. hope this helps, i can take some pics if anyone is interested, i searched high and low for help with this and didnt find a thing. Made removing the other side a piece of cake.
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:52 AM   #78
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an example of how i used the big *** wrench
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Old 09-20-2013, 04:12 AM   #79
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May be let it soak for a while with a lot of PB Blaster. One of my two studs were pretty rusty but wasn't frozen up. Had to use a wire wheel in a drill to clean it up and then slathered with water proof grease before reassembling everything. You might also try striking the arm straight down with a deadblow hammer as close as you can get to the stud.
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Old 03-07-2015, 08:47 PM   #80
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Just changed my compression rod arm bushings today with whiteline bushings. Thanks for the walk through it was a big help!
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