Hotchkis swaybars - clunking
350Z-holic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,912
Likes: 0
From: Interwebz
Originally Posted by Rowlett
mmm, I thought i saw, Upgraded Endlinks was the fix?
It is the fix. There are vendors that sell the endlinks here.
Stock endlinks cannot handle the stress from the stiffer settings that aftermarkets produce
/Thread
Originally Posted by trodis
+1
It is the fix. There are vendors that sell the endlinks here.
Stock endlinks cannot handle the stress from the stiffer settings that aftermarkets produce
/Thread
It is the fix. There are vendors that sell the endlinks here.
Stock endlinks cannot handle the stress from the stiffer settings that aftermarkets produce
/Thread
350Z-holic
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,912
Likes: 0
From: Interwebz
Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
UPDATE: Had the PowerGrid endlinks installed today. Zero clunking and a much more compliant ride. I highly recommend them!
Did you install urself? Easy?
I paid a shop to do it for a few reasons;
1. I was having issues with the nuts falling off early on, so I used loktite to keep them on. Used the wrong kind (Red instead of Blue) and so they would need a torch to remove them. I could do it, but would be a royal PITA trying to do so while laying on my back.
2. After lowering I can no longer get my car on my ramps and while you can install them on jacks, they need to be adjusted for length (zero preload) while the car's weight is resting on the tires. A shop can install and adjust all in one step on an alignment rack.
I went to a local shop, Vortex Motorsports, known best for working on Porsche racing cars. They charge $98/hour and although it took them 2, they kept to their estimate of 1 hour so I ended up paying $106 with tax and shop supply charge. Money extremely well spent IMO seeing as It would have probably taken me 4 hours at least with a sore back, busted knuckles and a lost Saturday to boot.
1. I was having issues with the nuts falling off early on, so I used loktite to keep them on. Used the wrong kind (Red instead of Blue) and so they would need a torch to remove them. I could do it, but would be a royal PITA trying to do so while laying on my back.
2. After lowering I can no longer get my car on my ramps and while you can install them on jacks, they need to be adjusted for length (zero preload) while the car's weight is resting on the tires. A shop can install and adjust all in one step on an alignment rack.
I went to a local shop, Vortex Motorsports, known best for working on Porsche racing cars. They charge $98/hour and although it took them 2, they kept to their estimate of 1 hour so I ended up paying $106 with tax and shop supply charge. Money extremely well spent IMO seeing as It would have probably taken me 4 hours at least with a sore back, busted knuckles and a lost Saturday to boot.
Last edited by 350Zenophile; Sep 9, 2008 at 10:25 AM.
For 100.00 I can understand your thoughts there!
kinda cool how @ home the Z looks in a group of Porsche's
kinda cool how @ home the Z looks in a group of Porsche's
Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
I paid a shop to do it for a few reasons;
1. I was having issues with the nuts falling off early on, so I used loktite to keep them on. Used the wrong kind (Red instead of Blue) and so they would need a torch to remove them. I could do it, but would be a royal PITA trying to do so while laying on my back.
2. After lowering I can no longer get my car on my ramps and while you can install them on jacks, they need to be adjusted for length (zero preload) while the car's weight is resting on the tires. A shop can install and adjust all in one step on an alignment rack.
I went to a local shop, Vortex Motorsports, known best for working on Porsche racing cars. They charge $98/hour and although it took them 2, they kept to their estimate of 1 hour so I ended up paying $106 with tax and shop supply charge. Money extremely well spent IMO seeing as It would have probably taken me 4 hours at least with a sore back, busted knuckles and a lost Saturday to boot.
1. I was having issues with the nuts falling off early on, so I used loktite to keep them on. Used the wrong kind (Red instead of Blue) and so they would need a torch to remove them. I could do it, but would be a royal PITA trying to do so while laying on my back.
2. After lowering I can no longer get my car on my ramps and while you can install them on jacks, they need to be adjusted for length (zero preload) while the car's weight is resting on the tires. A shop can install and adjust all in one step on an alignment rack.
I went to a local shop, Vortex Motorsports, known best for working on Porsche racing cars. They charge $98/hour and although it took them 2, they kept to their estimate of 1 hour so I ended up paying $106 with tax and shop supply charge. Money extremely well spent IMO seeing as It would have probably taken me 4 hours at least with a sore back, busted knuckles and a lost Saturday to boot.
Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
2. After lowering I can no longer get my car on my ramps and while you can install them on jacks, they need to be adjusted for length (zero preload) while the car's weight is resting on the tires. A shop can install and adjust all in one step on an alignment rack.
It would have probably taken me 4 hours at least with a sore back, busted knuckles and a lost Saturday to boot.
It would have probably taken me 4 hours at least with a sore back, busted knuckles and a lost Saturday to boot.
Not knocking you for taking it to a shop or anything, with the loctite issue and the car lowered, $106 is a steal.
Originally Posted by DukeEntDotCom
I'm getting my brake pads done soon, so I will have them check the torque on everything, and see if they could grease the bushings.
Still got the clunk.
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