Brainstorming Session - Forced Air Brake Ducting?
#1
Brainstorming Session - Forced Air Brake Ducting?
First of all, I'm not experienced enough to know whether this has been done. Second, I'm not experienced enough to know whether this is possible, or completely retarded. So, flamers go away, I'm looking for constructive criticism only.
That said, when people make brake ducts, they always seem to use a scoop to force air into the duct. This naturally would force more air through the duct at higher speeds.
What if someone were to use 4 small, but powerful 12V blowers, running off the battery? They could have a simple on/off switch in cabin, and naturally the blowers would have to be resistant to the elements. But it could help force a lot more air to the rotors, improving heat dissipation especially at lower speeds.
This may be a non-issue for most of you guys out there with BBKs. I'm sure most of you have more than enough heat capacity just with the bigger rotors. However, we all know smaller and lighter rotors = less rotational inertia. So, if this could significantly affect cooling, it might allow some people to run smaller rotors for better acceleration and handling.
That said, when people make brake ducts, they always seem to use a scoop to force air into the duct. This naturally would force more air through the duct at higher speeds.
What if someone were to use 4 small, but powerful 12V blowers, running off the battery? They could have a simple on/off switch in cabin, and naturally the blowers would have to be resistant to the elements. But it could help force a lot more air to the rotors, improving heat dissipation especially at lower speeds.
This may be a non-issue for most of you guys out there with BBKs. I'm sure most of you have more than enough heat capacity just with the bigger rotors. However, we all know smaller and lighter rotors = less rotational inertia. So, if this could significantly affect cooling, it might allow some people to run smaller rotors for better acceleration and handling.
#3
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Actually a freind of mine with a NSX has these.
Well, he has actual brake ducts and then from the front compartment where the battery and radiator is he has two small fans in pvc piping blowing air that enters the front fascia into the brakes. He wired up a switch that he turns on before he runs at track events.
It's pretty neat and since he still running OEM brakes with the excpetion of pads, so it helps.
Well, he has actual brake ducts and then from the front compartment where the battery and radiator is he has two small fans in pvc piping blowing air that enters the front fascia into the brakes. He wired up a switch that he turns on before he runs at track events.
It's pretty neat and since he still running OEM brakes with the excpetion of pads, so it helps.
#4
I was thinking about how strong my leaf blower is, which gets the air going at 150mph+. And it is a WEAK leaf blower. Now, take 4 of those motors, fabricate a housing to keep water and dirt out, and you would have some monster brake ducts. Leaf blower was $30. Only problem is you would need something that runs on 12VDC, not 120VAC. But that shouldn't be too hard...
Hehe, and it would either sound really ghey, or really bad ***. I guess depending on the resonation within the brake duct tubes
Hehe, and it would either sound really ghey, or really bad ***. I guess depending on the resonation within the brake duct tubes
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#6
This would certainly work. The challange will be the tubing from the front to the brake area. Nascar Cup cars use this exact method to assist in brake cooling, as do other forms of racing.
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The key to any good design is simplicity and efficiency. Improving on a more efficient duct system for ur needs would be the first priority. Keep in mind that fans are fine so long as they are moving air faster than the air being supplied to them ---Once the air being supplied to them exeeds the fans capabiltys to accelerate it, they become a hinderence.
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Awhile back someone posted pics (either in this forum or the road racing section) where he routed tubing from the front grille to the brakes. The tubing went through the empty space where the AEM CAI fiter would be located...there was a discussion of where the air should be pointed for even cooling of the brake rotor to ensure it wouldn't cause warping.
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While I like your ingenuity, I did my ducting the old fashioned way and it works great. Here is a like to the discussion with some pics.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ighlight=ducts
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ighlight=ducts
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
I was thinking about how strong my leaf blower is, which gets the air going at 150mph+. And it is a WEAK leaf blower. Now, take 4 of those motors, fabricate a housing to keep water and dirt out, and you would have some monster brake ducts. Leaf blower was $30. Only problem is you would need something that runs on 12VDC, not 120VAC. But that shouldn't be too hard...
Brake ducting if done right can help a lot, but done in a wrong way may cause uneven heating issues and damage to the rotors. For better efficiency, smooth inside surface and minimal bends in the ducting is preferable. The losses on the bend might almost reduce to negligible air flow at low speeds.
Last edited by spacemn_spiff; 09-12-2006 at 08:44 AM.
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My only question with doing this is where are you going to draw the air from? There isn't much room in there to get fresh air. This is why I think traditional ducting via a scoop in the grill is best.
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you know the side ports that lead the A/C to the doors so they come out of the little turn thingie? can you route them back to the outside of the car toward the brakes via thru behind the fender?
then its not only not interfering with outside air via fan, you can direct cold air to the brakes if you turn the A/C on...
then its not only not interfering with outside air via fan, you can direct cold air to the brakes if you turn the A/C on...
#16
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I don't think you could find a fan capable of delivering the type of CFM you get from a properly placed duct on a car going 50mph. Something like your average leaf blower draws too much amperage. You're only dealing with a 12v system unlike your leaf blower which runs on 110v. Even then, I bet the ducting delivers more cfm at speed than does your leaf blower.
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