raditz

How do you adjust the ride height with the MonoFLEX, just turning the threaded double perch that is supporting the spring or turning the perch that is just below, where the green body starts?

I think that both method cas change the height, but which one is better to just change the height?

arizzee

iTrader: (28)

http://www.tein.com/tech_info/inst/gfp24u.pdf

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

that doesn't really help worth a **** beyond getting them installed.

I too am adjusting my setup right now as well. On the fronts, leave the springs alone. unbolt the strut housing from the supsension swing arm on the bottom and adjust the bottom perch to adjust ride height. the spring adjustments need to keep a constant force on the spring so do not touch that.

The rears are a little more tricky. You need to adjust the spring seat to adjust ride height. The tricky part is you also need to adjust the absorber as well. This you will need to experiment with. I don't know if it is an exact 1:1 relationship between the absorber and spring. so if you take 1/2" off the spring seat, you may need to take more than 1/2" off the absorber; though I would guess it is close to 1:1

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Zivman, I think it is important to keep the parameters in spec as listed in the diagram in that PDF. I am pretty sure I had to adjust the spring collars as well to keep the parameters in spec - it was a while ago, but I think this was necessary. I had a really hard time understanding anything from that PDF until I actually started adjusting it. I only adjusted the fronts - the rears should be easier since the springs are separate. Adjusting the fronts is a PITA cause even with the coilover disconnected at the bottom, it is hard to get enough room to rotate it. It is possible though with some struggling and maneuvering but it gets harder as you try to increase height (which is what I was trying to do).

#1 : measure the distances listed in the PDF diagram - ALL the "lettered" distances so you can always go back if you screw it up.

#2 : I didn't realize this at the time but the adjusting tool has a place where you can insert a torque wrench to actually get more force to tighten it up.

raditz

Well... more or less I have it clear now... but... in the EDFC witch one is the hardest position the 0 or 1??? as it seams in the manual it should be the 0 but if this is correct then from 0 to 16 there are 17 possibilities, what is wrong because the MonoFLEX has only 16...

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

So what you are saying is that you think on the fronts, the reference value listed for the "C" section should remain at 354mm regardless of adjustment made to the other sections A, B, and D?

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

0 is full stiff, i posted a thread when i did my mono flex install with pics/tips on how to route wires, search for it if it will help you.

DB8

iTrader: (3)

I need help guys.....

The car is in the shop now, my mechanic is having trouble adjusting the ride height on the rear.

Can anyone pls explain the details in adjusting the rear?

By lowering the spring perch will NOT lower it, correct???

The absorber (shock) will also need to be adjusted??? If so, simply by turning the metal "bracket lock" on it?

Thanks in advance

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Well this is a late reply but this is incorrect (on my part back in 2007). When you shorten the coilover length, you will need to ensure dimension "D" (for the front shocks) changes by the same amount to ensure that spring preload remains the same. The reference height for the monoflex is 17.1 inches for dimension A (from top of the shock body to the lower bolt hole) and for D it is 1.1 inch, which provides the reference height (middle of the adjustment range) and zero spring preload. Going to a max height setting of 18 inches would mean D should be set to 2 inches for zero preload. B and C fall into place if you set A and D correctly.

Look at page 7 in this PDF: http://www.tein.com/tech_info/inst/gfp24u.pdf

Here is a good explanation of how to set preload and then set height:

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/inst...s%20been%20set

The rears should be similar. Set spring preload to zero first based on wheels off and the car in the air (spring should have zero tension - just snugly be in place - you should be able to rotate them in place by hand). Then set height by adjusting the shock height.

Why Tein couldn't put in 2 lines of text in the manual on adjusting spring preload to 0 before setting height is beyond me. What kind of manufacturer just gives you a product with the only instructions to "adjust as necessary"?

rorii

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to bump a rather old thread.

Can anyone confirm this for the rear? I tried to lower the rear by turning the shock to the desired height but it had no effect on the ride height. Its only when i adjusted the spring collars that it did. I rotated the collars all the way to the top (there weren't much thread left) and it lowered the rear by 10mm at most... Im sure the monoflex can go lower than that??



So for reference (KY-264 and KY-149), B was 130mm, i wanted a drop of 20mm so i rotated so that B was 110mm. No change. I left it @ 110mm and adjusted C to 0mm, and that dropped somewhat...

What am i doing wrong?

Cheers

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

the rear height is set by the spring, the adjustment on th damper controls the amount of stroke it has

rorii

iTrader: (2)

So adjusting the damper does nothing to the height? I've basically maxed out the spring adjustment (spun it all the way to the top) and its only dropped the rear by roughly 1.1" from factory height.

Max drop as specified on tein website is 1.89"

What else can i check to see if ive done it right?

Vivid Racing

iTrader: (67)

The damper can affect height, in the sense that you can have the spring set to max low but if the shock isn't set right, you'll basically be bottoming the shock out before the suspension reaches its lowest point. Not only is that bad for ride height, it damages the shock and causes a terrible ride. Also, when measuring ride height, the BEST and most accurate way to measure it is to measure from the bottom of the wheel to the fender. This will remove the margin of error caused by different sized tires.