I have received several requests to explain how I vented my front rotors on my Enthusiast model.. I'm sorry but I don't have any pics. so here it goes.

I got 2 NACCA air ducts with 21/2" necks. I cut holes in the lower engine cover and secured these ducts using electrician straps (plastic handcuffs). I removed the dust covers from the front wheels. On the backside of each wheel assembly you will see turn stops. I had a local muffler shop weld a 6" to 8" piece of 21/2" tail pipe to a piece of multipuched strap which was then bolted to the turn stop on each side. They deformed one end into an oval shape which was directed to the center of the rotor. I then took a piece of 21/2" of flex tubing and secured it to the NACCA ducts and to this mfg. piece. I had to run the ducting over the sway bar and secure it with several elect. straps. It was a trial and error process to make sure the front tires did not rub holes in the ducting and to make sure it was pointed to the center of the rotor. This where duct tape plays a big role.

I've run several Driving Events this season on stock 17" wheels and have not had a problem with brake fad. I did change fluid to Super Blue and I am using Pather XP pads on the front and Pather plus on the rears. This is a clean looking Mod. without cutting holes in body parts and nothing hanging down below the car.

Hope this helps.

 

Can't wait to see photos of your set-up. It sounds interesting.

When you reach the next level of skill and/or switch to R-compound tires, you may find that you are back to boiling the brake fluid and vaporizing your rear pads. You might try switching to Motul 600 at that point, since its dry boiling point is more than 50 degrees higher than ATE Super Blue and ATE TYP 200.

Also, you might want to cut off the rear rotor backing plates to get those puppies down in temperature at least another 50 degrees. You'll probably find a significant improvement in rear pad life as a result.

 

Pix!

 

Ditto on the pic's.......

Did you vent just the front, or front and rear? Although I'm melting the clear plastic covering on my StopTech SS brake lines, I'm more concerned about cooling my puny rear brakes.

And, Dave, glad you like the concept of removing the rear backing plate. I did it and highly recommend other track users do so also.

 

With the tiny rear rotor and that postage-stamp sized rear pad, the brakes need all the help they can get. Having a metal backing plate that wraps nearly all the way around the rotor to block airflow is not my idea of help!

 

For non-brembo systems as well??
Thanks

Scott

 

Probably even more-so, since the Brembos can handle more heat before fading than the stock brakes can.

 

ESPECIALLY for the non-Brembo systems! The Track model has bigger pads in the rear.

 

Thanks for clarifying


Stock rear brake sucks


Scott

 

Why are those shields on the rears only? What purpose do they serve?

 

The front rotors have backing plates (shields) also. When I install a big brake kit on a 350Z, I simply remove the entire shield from the front. I know the StopTech instructions say to trim them, leaveing a small flap behind, but that was an arbitrary decision at the time and it's better to simply remove them. How do I know this? Because I wrote those instructions!

 

So it is ok/a good idea to remove these shields from both the front and the rear?

 

If you're having a problem burning up the rear pads at the track, then it makes absolute sense to take off the rear rotors and use some tin snips to cut away the shield, being careful not to snip the ABS sensor wire. By dropping rear rotor temperature just a few degrees, you can make a huge difference in pad life.

As a matter of course, I cut the front backing plates off completely when installing big brakes since most of it needs to be removed anyway. All that would be left is a small flap. Even better would be a custom backing plate that formed a scoop or actually hooked up to a flexible duct and directed air into the center of the rotor.

 

I'm waiting for my 3" ducts to come back from Nick at N-Tech. I will be going to CMP in early November (notoriously bad on brakes). I hope that these ducts make a difference. I'm sure that I will end up throwing in the towel and get either the 14" Stoptechs or APs. I'm really tired of worrying about brakes slamming them on at 130mph... I have the performance model with Altima brakes and have already done all the moding one can do; SS lines, Motul, Panther XP, cut off dust shields. Even with these upgrades I'm still seeing the typical signs of warped rotors, fried dust boots, and going through a set of rear track pads in a weekend.

 

Hey, I melted my front right dust boot as well. I was told the inner seal is the important one and have not replaced the outside boot yet. Did you replace yours? was it an easy fix?

 

You didn't mention melted plastic center caps!

The other reason to remove them. \

BTW, when is Nick shipping the cooling kit?

 

Pics!!

 

Do the dust shields have to be cut off, or can they be removed without cutting them?