E-Brake Light on?
Hi Guys,
Hope someone can be of help here.. today was about 13 deg. f this morning on my wat to work... I noticed that the E-Brake light was on. the brake was def. disengaged. the light shut off about half way to work.
also I installed a Head unit and speakers. dont know if that would of done anyrhing?
thanks
Hope someone can be of help here.. today was about 13 deg. f this morning on my wat to work... I noticed that the E-Brake light was on. the brake was def. disengaged. the light shut off about half way to work.
also I installed a Head unit and speakers. dont know if that would of done anyrhing?
thanks
did you install a screened head unit that required you to touch anything that has to do with the e-brake?
If not then...
did you use the e-brake and disengage it b4 going to work? Possible it is just frozen a tad, i mean the "thing" that turns the light on and off i believe is right where the handle itself is. Simple switch. To tel you the truth i am not positive, but the fluid sensor could also be stuck due to the cold weather and turn on the Brake light as well. As you drove and the engine heated everything up it went back to normal shutting off the light. I never looked into it since i've never had a brake problem so who knows.
If not then...
did you use the e-brake and disengage it b4 going to work? Possible it is just frozen a tad, i mean the "thing" that turns the light on and off i believe is right where the handle itself is. Simple switch. To tel you the truth i am not positive, but the fluid sensor could also be stuck due to the cold weather and turn on the Brake light as well. As you drove and the engine heated everything up it went back to normal shutting off the light. I never looked into it since i've never had a brake problem so who knows.
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DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR BRAKE FLUID.
the fluid gets low because your piston is further in meaning your brakes are low either front and or rear. If you put in more fluid when you do a brake job, and you compress the piston back in all that excess fluid will now blow and or run out of the reservoir tank. And we all know what happens to paint and parts when brake fluid gets on them.
the fluid gets low because your piston is further in meaning your brakes are low either front and or rear. If you put in more fluid when you do a brake job, and you compress the piston back in all that excess fluid will now blow and or run out of the reservoir tank. And we all know what happens to paint and parts when brake fluid gets on them.
^^^Turkey Baster from t-giving FTW!!! DIY Brake Pads. Venture is right though. Your fluid will go back to normal with a brake job. Slip and VDC lights will turn on and stay on also if it gets real bad. (the computer disables the the traction control system if there is a brake problem)
yeah i know you can suck out the excess b4 hand, but not to many people know do that so was giving the heads up. Plus seeing low fluid with no leaks is a good indication that brakes are low as well.
If the fluid is low, top it off. When you replace brake pads you should open the BLEEDER valve rather than pushing fluid back through the system.
If your e-brake is pulling up really high then you may just need to tighten the screw adjustment. More recently for me that was the problem. There was far too much slack in the cable so the sensor always thought the e-brake was pulled.
If the problem is still there then it's something more serious. Worry about that later if that is the case.
If your e-brake is pulling up really high then you may just need to tighten the screw adjustment. More recently for me that was the problem. There was far too much slack in the cable so the sensor always thought the e-brake was pulled.
If the problem is still there then it's something more serious. Worry about that later if that is the case.
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