True coilover systems VS OEM type systems?
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True coilover systems VS OEM type systems?
I DID search, and nothing addressed my real questions, so here I am
I do understand the differences between the two, being that the front is an actual shock/spring and the back is a strut setup (correct if wrong, flaming not necesarry). But what I'm having a hard time understanding is how you can convert the rears to a shock/spring, upon installation do you just leave that rear springmount empty? do true coilover kits come with a different control arm? are there any real pros to adjustability besides height with switching? the only reasons i'm asking is because I'm considering lowering the Z, had s-techs on the last ZR and wasn't happy with the lift, I mean drop, they gave me. The z is a daily so I don't want people to think i'm bagged but a nice tire tuck on 18's would be acceptable. input/feedback is much appreciated. also, if someone could give me a quick rundown on spring rates and what not? thanks guys
I do understand the differences between the two, being that the front is an actual shock/spring and the back is a strut setup (correct if wrong, flaming not necesarry). But what I'm having a hard time understanding is how you can convert the rears to a shock/spring, upon installation do you just leave that rear springmount empty? do true coilover kits come with a different control arm? are there any real pros to adjustability besides height with switching? the only reasons i'm asking is because I'm considering lowering the Z, had s-techs on the last ZR and wasn't happy with the lift, I mean drop, they gave me. The z is a daily so I don't want people to think i'm bagged but a nice tire tuck on 18's would be acceptable. input/feedback is much appreciated. also, if someone could give me a quick rundown on spring rates and what not? thanks guys
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When installing a true coil setup in the rear you leave the rear springmount empty. They do sell a control arm to replace it. Basically to install a true coil rear the coilover mounts in the factory shock location. I think height adjustability is the same for oem rear and true rear setups. I recommend the oem style because it has a few less problems than the true coils rear. Also i think nissan desighned it that way for a reason. This of course is only my opinion and experience.
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Both the front and rear of the Z are just dampers and not struts. As stated just leave the spring bucket empty or install a set of adjustable lower control arms which will allow a large range of adjustment for precise toe setting. If your lowering your car you will likely run out of toe adjustment wit hthe OEM toe bolt. The SPC toe bolts can be installed for a cheaper fix.
All of the Nissan factory 380RS cars used the true coilover in the rear and the did away with the OEm lower control arms and instlled the threaded lower control arms liek the Battle Version arms.
All of the Nissan factory 380RS cars used the true coilover in the rear and the did away with the OEm lower control arms and instlled the threaded lower control arms liek the Battle Version arms.
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yes. leave it empty.
No, but like mentioned, you can buy some, battle version is one of them.
in rick dogs pic, the first one shown (longer one) is the spring bucket replacement arm.
on a true coilover in rear you can adjust height way more, in an oem set up the spring at some point fights you, the lower you go using adjustable shocks the higher you are increasing the spring rate by lowering the car onto the spring.....
a tire tuck would be a significant drop....if thats what your wanting, bags may be better for you for daily driving as you can adjust some when going down worse roads versus being dropped that low all the time on coilovers.
for daily, dont get anything super high, i doubt you really even need to worry much about it.....
-J
No, but like mentioned, you can buy some, battle version is one of them.
in rick dogs pic, the first one shown (longer one) is the spring bucket replacement arm.
on a true coilover in rear you can adjust height way more, in an oem set up the spring at some point fights you, the lower you go using adjustable shocks the higher you are increasing the spring rate by lowering the car onto the spring.....
-J
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I AGREE..........When your lowered really low, the spc toe bolts (at the spring bucket to aluminum subframe location) and elongating the slots is lame-o......
much bigger range of adjust ability with arms (such as the battle versions).......versus the spc toe bolt and oem spring bucket arm left empty.
-J
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Both the front and rear of the Z are just dampers and not struts. As stated just leave the spring bucket empty or install a set of adjustable lower control arms which will allow a large range of adjustment for precise toe setting. If your lowering your car you will likely run out of toe adjustment wit hthe OEM toe bolt. The SPC toe bolts can be installed for a cheaper fix.
All of the Nissan factory 380RS cars used the true coilover in the rear and the did away with the OEm lower control arms and instlled the threaded lower control arms liek the Battle Version arms.
All of the Nissan factory 380RS cars used the true coilover in the rear and the did away with the OEm lower control arms and instlled the threaded lower control arms liek the Battle Version arms.
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super helpful! thanks guys, i think i'm probably going to end up getting a true system at some point just to drop her, then down the road pick up a set of wheels that'd be worth a z's time.
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