Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/...-bushings.html

We have all of them in stock (front and rear) and offer a package for just fronts, just rears, or any combination therein

While they may be able to be done with a clamp and a wratchet (you would really need to create a fixture to get the required leverage), I suspect that will take forever and be extremely tedious and some of them would be quite tedious Ideally, a press is really needed and will make it a much easier task

As far as install costs, you would really need to consult a local shop

gregom

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply... so about $400 for the entire deal including rear subframe. I'll have to do so some research and checking and see what I can do on my own, probably all of it over a weekend, but the press bit will be a pain.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

pricing for all

https://my350z.com/forum/8138641-post75.html

I would budget considerably more time than just a weekend if you're trying to do these without a press - a press is highly recommended

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

if you drop the subframe, you can bring it to a machine shop and they will do it for very very cheap.

Napa stores generally have a machine shop I think, at least the ones near me did.

gregom

iTrader: (3)

I don't have the cash for all of them so i'll need to be strategic about which ones I replace. I think I'll just to go lift my car and check all my bushings. Did anyone notice particular ones that seemed considerably more worn than others?

Thanks for the info on getting them pressed in, I think I'll do some calling around and see if I can find someone to do it for me.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

separate them into two groups then:

- diff bushings ($200?)
- subframe bushings ($250?)

The diff bushings you can do without dropping the subframe so it is pretty obvious which ones to do first imo.

but if you can't spend 400 bucks, maybe holding off is your best bet.

gregom

iTrader: (3)

You think those might be the ones most needing replaced? Like I said i'll have to lift the car up and do a thorough checking of all bushings... then i'll see what I can get away with. As you said though it might a good idea just to wait for now.

kuah@splparts.com

iTrader: (10)

The bushings that are typically known to go bad on these cars are:

Rear differential bushing -- look for black streaks on the differential cover from dried silicone oil leaked from the bushing

Front lower arm inner bushings -- look for torn/separated bushing

Front compression rod bushings -- look for torn/separated bushing

Rear knuckle shock mount bushings -- typically affects those who did rear coilover conversions only, look for excessive play

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

who makes the rear knuckle bushing that supports the coilover? nismo?

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Whiteline does a urethane lower shock mount bushing, goes in the knuckle.

NISMO doesn't offer one, though they do offer a rear upper shock bushing (which is to be used on a stock shock, or on a coilover that does not include rear pillowballs..it's a small cylindrical shaped bushing with ridged edges)

06platinumG

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Z1 Performance;8141116]Whiteline does a urethane lower shock mount bushing, goes in the knuckle. QUOTE]

^Do you stock this bushing?

kuah@splparts.com

iTrader: (10)

SPL will be offering the rear knuckle bushings as well, expected to be released within the next 2 weeks. The rear knuckle shock mount bushings will use a 5/8" bearing with a 7500lb load rating to accomodate increased load.

gregom

iTrader: (3)

Well my diff mount bushing is gone... As described there is that black silicone that leaked down the housing. This wasn't there a couple months ago when I changed the diff oil. This real sloppy feeling didn't start happening until a 2-3 weeks ago.






I cant tell because I don't really know what to look for, but can you tell if the subframe bushings look bad? I looked around at my other suspension bushings and didn't see anything that looked really worn or had cracks in the rubber. Only my front sway bar bushings were cracked, which is odd because those were replaced 1.5 years ago by a Nissan dealership. Could they have tightened the sway bar mountings too much?

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

If your subframe bushings had gone bad you would see similar fluid on or below your subframe.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

the second picture you posted are of the front differential carrier bushings, not the sub frame ones. The sub frame is the silver part in the first picture that the rear diff bushing (where the fluid filled bushing broke) is mounted to, and the mounting points are obscured.

gregom

iTrader: (3)

Ahh thanks guys, i'm learning here. So i'm guess i'd see the same black nasty crap leaking in other spots if other bushings had broke as well? The carrier bushings I can probably just leave alone? It is probably best I just replace them all while i'm there instead of just replacing the broken one, would you agree?

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

I did. And I think SPL had a post (Kuah) recommending to do that as well.

blue350zed

iTrader: (14)

Would this upgrade be something worthwhile on a low-mileage Z not experiencing any bushing issues yet? Would it be a noticable difference for the better, performance-wise?

gregom

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Motormouth, i'll probably do that. I'm sorry to sort of hijack this thread but i'm really getting frustrated with my lack of knowledge here. I've been reading through some posts in this and other threads, and I must say i'm having problems identifying all the parts here and understand what is actually happening here. I am not familiar with this area of a car at all, so i'm a total n00ber here...

My main problem is the car feels wobbly going around corners and even just driving steady-throttle in a straight line. Just cruising down a bumpy street in a straight line at 25 MPH, if I hit any sort of little bump on the road the car shakes, vibrates, oscillates, however one wants to describe it, it just feels horrible. I miss that solid feeling the car had where the cars body just followed the bumps in the road rather than getting all twitchy and sloppy, acting weird and making all kinds of noise when going over them. I have no confidence or desire to autocross or track the car now in this condition.

I think replacing my shocks will play a good role in this since they are the originals, but I can't help think a majority or all of the bushings are also going to help. The car has nearly 75K miles on it and has been driven hard on the track and autox, daily driven, and in two wrecks that primarily affected the suspension. So i'm sure a lot of the related components are shot to hell and simply need replaced. Oddly, I haven't really felt anything much worse under hard acceleration, which with that diff bushing gone, you think it would... but at the same time I haven't been on the throttle much because I simply didn't want to be.

Anyway there seem to be a couple different names for these parts. I have been looking at the FSM and haven't found all the mounting points and what bushings I actually may need to replace. What are all the bushings related to the diff in this car and where are they all located? The Z1 guys refer to "Rear Subframe Kit and Differential Power Bushing Set", is the leak identified above the differential power bushing? You say 'set', is this just for that one spot or multiple points? The rear subframe kit is additional mounting points that I cannot see easily nor can be seen in either of my photos right? So the diff carrier in my second pic is called the front diff bushings? Or is that completely separate and is only considered diff carrier bushings, which I haven't seen anyone selling?

See i'm really confused here, all I want is to get my ride stiff and taught again. AutoX season starts up here in couple months and i'm itching to get out there, but with my car in its current condition it will not be fun at all... Please help me here guys.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

the differential has three bushings which are also all the places it mounts to the car. (besides from the input shaft, and the axles)

there are 2 in the front, one on either side, they face down, and have a bolt through the center with a large plate sized metal washer covering the rubber portion. they are what you see in your second picture.

there is one in the rear, that faces front to back. the differential's rear cover has an integrated bolt that slides through the center of this bushing, and attaches with a nut from the back. this one is the fluid filled one that caused the streaks on your differential.

the sub frame mounts to the car's chassis and is insulated with four bushings.

then there are bushings every place the suspension has an articulating joint that can also be replaced.

if your car feels that wobbly, it sounds like a toe issue, which is an aspect of your alignment. As well, I would be surprised if your shocks were still good... 75k miles is a lot for them. and your rear bushing is def. shot if there are the streaks you showed. I am sure there is a way to test your shocks. if the car bounces around it means the spring is overpowering the dampening ability of the shock, which means it is worn out. if you uninstalled one and tested it you could also tell... if it stays compressed for a good amount of time, or if you can move it by hand it is probably beat to hell.

I will try and dig up the schema pictures tomorrow and point them all out for you graphically.