Fr/Rr solid bushing installed... amazing!
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Thanks for your description, makes perfect sense now... So all 3 bushings, which SPL makes the solid ones discussed in this thread are the ones you can see in my pics.
There are then 4 bushings for the subframe, or (rear crossmember another name for it?) that I cannot see, but are between it and the chassis?
I had an alignment done after both my wrecks, and several parts were replaced, front lower control arms (shock mounts), endlinks, swaybar bushings. So those bushings should be good. Only ones left are the front-rear control arm bushing, not sure what its called but its the curved arm which I think has its own balljoint, and the upper a-arm which would need new bushings. But all the rear bushings have never been replaced, so maybe I should go for a full rear set, including diff and subframe bushings, and just a few for the front. That, coupled with shocks (Tokico HP blues) and a alignment should make a big difference. $1,200 or so later right?... I could do a fair bit of these myself but i'm tempted to pay a shop to do it. Either way this is a lot more money than I was planning on spending but I do have it, just didn't want to put it all in suspension.
Now what about springs? Could they be weak after so many miles or do they not really go bad in this short of time?
Now when I said my car feels wobbly, that isn't under power, so would toe really affect it that much still? I would think bushings and shocks would affect this most when just driving normally in a straight line. But when cornering hard and applying power, all these components really come into play.
There are then 4 bushings for the subframe, or (rear crossmember another name for it?) that I cannot see, but are between it and the chassis?
I had an alignment done after both my wrecks, and several parts were replaced, front lower control arms (shock mounts), endlinks, swaybar bushings. So those bushings should be good. Only ones left are the front-rear control arm bushing, not sure what its called but its the curved arm which I think has its own balljoint, and the upper a-arm which would need new bushings. But all the rear bushings have never been replaced, so maybe I should go for a full rear set, including diff and subframe bushings, and just a few for the front. That, coupled with shocks (Tokico HP blues) and a alignment should make a big difference. $1,200 or so later right?... I could do a fair bit of these myself but i'm tempted to pay a shop to do it. Either way this is a lot more money than I was planning on spending but I do have it, just didn't want to put it all in suspension.
Now what about springs? Could they be weak after so many miles or do they not really go bad in this short of time?
Now when I said my car feels wobbly, that isn't under power, so would toe really affect it that much still? I would think bushings and shocks would affect this most when just driving normally in a straight line. But when cornering hard and applying power, all these components really come into play.
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Ahh thanks guys, i'm learning here. So i'm guess i'd see the same black nasty crap leaking in other spots if other bushings had broke as well? The carrier bushings I can probably just leave alone? It is probably best I just replace them all while i'm there instead of just replacing the broken one, would you agree?
The solid differential bushings significantly reduce wheel hop, which makes a very noticeable difference, particularly for those who drag race, drift or road race.
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has there been any talk about a subframe collar set like available for the 240's?
such as these http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...&Store_Code=EM
such as these http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...&Store_Code=EM
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has there been any talk about a subframe collar set like available for the 240's?
such as these http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...&Store_Code=EM
such as these http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...&Store_Code=EM
http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/car_type...-mls-al-e.html
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Ikeya formula has had these for our cars for several years now.
http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/car_type...-mls-al-e.html
http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/car_type...-mls-al-e.html
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Kuah, could you comment on combining the SPL rear solid diff bushing with the Whiteline front diff bushing caps. I've seen it mentioned as an option and am curious what the negatives would be. I think the only benefit would be the expectation of less noise with the whiteline front caps.
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Kuah, could you comment on combining the SPL rear solid diff bushing with the Whiteline front diff bushing caps. I've seen it mentioned as an option and am curious what the negatives would be. I think the only benefit would be the expectation of less noise with the whiteline front caps.
I don't see having a soft bushing in front would change the level of noise being transmitted, there is still a metal to metal path for the noise from the diff to the subframe. While we do have to warn customers that there will be an increase in noise, it is really not that bad because the entire subframe and diff assembly is still isolated from the chassis through the 4 big subframe bushings. We've been offering this for several years now and I've never had a complaint about noise from our solid diff bushings; in fact a number of customers have come back to say that it wasn't really as noticeable as they thought it would be
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Thanks guys
Yep, I think you have too Motormouth. I've seen posts saying NVH is not noticable and other posts saying NVH is terrible.
Kuah's comments about eventual fatigue with a soft front bushing and pointing out that once you put the rear one in, you've already got metal-to-metal contact tells me there's really no point to considering the caps.
Yep, I think you have too Motormouth. I've seen posts saying NVH is not noticable and other posts saying NVH is terrible.
Kuah's comments about eventual fatigue with a soft front bushing and pointing out that once you put the rear one in, you've already got metal-to-metal contact tells me there's really no point to considering the caps.
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The primary difference between the SPL front solids and the Whiteline "caps" is a labor difference, and cost of the item in the first place.
The SPL will give a more direct feel, being solid
The SPL requires you to press the old ones out
The Whitelines are less expensive, and much quicker/easier to install since no pressing is involved, however they will not be as direct as the SPL
The SPL will give a more direct feel, being solid
The SPL requires you to press the old ones out
The Whitelines are less expensive, and much quicker/easier to install since no pressing is involved, however they will not be as direct as the SPL
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 02-16-2010 at 02:49 PM.
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You rock Motormouth thanks for that pic! Actually your verbal description worked for me but the pic is great for those of us learning this stuff.
Almost think we should make a new thread and sticky it, this is overall good info to have at your fingertips.
Almost think we should make a new thread and sticky it, this is overall good info to have at your fingertips.
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i think a sticky on the weak points of our suspension would be great. also would be nice to see the steering rack addressed since even NISSAN upgraded it for the 370Z http://www.370z.com/MagazineArticles...uspension.aspx