With rear SPC camber arm, elongated hole, SPC toe bolt:

From my actual physical observation, I'm assuming that having a 0 deg camber in the rear will max out the elongated toe adjustment, leaving the rear toe alignment way out of specs and no more room for adjusting it.

Anyone able to get 0 deg camber with 0 deg toe for the rear? Or is the only solution is to have some negative camber which free up the extra adjustments for the toe?...or even raise the car up a bit?

Again, anyone with 0 deg camber with 0 deg toe for the rear? And yes i know a slight camber is good for handling but I'm curious if this is possible since these kits are suppose to be able to adjust to these angles if the owner wants to. Any input would surely ease my mind. Thanks!

 

Why would you want that?

 

No - they don't have that level of flexibility imo. I've been able to get to -1.3 in the rear and bring toe in spec. Not too bad. With SPL v2 a arms up front, I've been able to bring front toe in spec and bring camber to -1.8 (max positive). I am lowered with Tein Monoflex, but I am near the upper limit of their height adjustment - still probably more than an inch lower than stock.

 

^thanks!...good stuff to know. Makes me feel better knowing that I didn't install anything incorrectly. I was going to keep elongating that friggin hole even more, but I know it wouldn't had made a difference since the eccentric toe bolt washer can only move it so much.


*bump*
any other input?

 

You will not be able to get that alignment in the rear with an eccentric toe bolt, but it can be done pretty easily with our PRO midlink/toe arms and our PRO camber arms. We did that several years ago to setup our NA 350Z for drag racing (which was the first NA to reach 12s in the 1/4mi). Sound Performance is also using that setup on their drag car to get 0/positive rear camber.

 

I am slammed and i got my toe back to 0 with the rear spc kit

 

^ yeah but what's your camber set at?

 

Yes, this is the only way....as the eccentric washer wont do that....

If you have oem set up rear suspension - as in spring in the spring bucket then the ONLY way to do this is get the -
SPL Pro midlink:



If you have "true coilovers" as in, coilovers that don't utilize the spring in the spring bucket then you can get a rear "toe arm"
See what i mean here:



Toe arms out there:
SPL pro toe arm
circuit sport toe arms
battle version toe arms

I made my own......


-J

 

Um - I dont have true coilovers just yet but I certainly would like to entertain an offer if your willing to make me a set of those toe arms... Those look syck and Ive been wanting to do that - just have to wait for my coilovers to come in. Damn nice job sir..

 

I replaced my "traction bars" with adjustable ones (the ones that run front to rear)

I am not even near maxing adjustablity and um running neg 1 camber on the rear and zero toe. SO I am sure I could do it at 0

 

That is a "ARM" that should never be replaced honestly.......not for anyone wanting to get on the track...daily driver, sure no biggy the effects of it are gonna be ill to the dim whitted daily driver.........


Its a traction arm (aka RADIUS ROD) that will major affect camber and toe when adjusting, yes if you have an adjustable camber arm you can get it back into spec,.....

BUT (laymens terms) to make things easy - what is the rear caster now???
(laymens term cause there is no caster in the rear as the rear isnt a steering / guide wheel, but lets just call it caster)

yep, extending that "traction arm" now pushes the alignment of the rear spindle and rear wheel BACK, and not aligned with the rear diff axle plane....

If this is for high power launching on the 1/4 mile.......well, its your car....u decide....

-J

 

I'm not to knowledgable when it comes to suspension, so for clarification. If I wanted to run my camber at say -1.5 upfront and -1 in the rear, would a rear camber kit work for the back while keeping my toe in spec? Also what would I need for the front? I'm assuming aftermarket A arms?

 

Depends also how high you are as well, or i should say how much you are lowered.....the lower you go, the more negative your camber becomes....

what is your ride height? what are you lowered on? or are you stock height..??

-J

 

I'm currently on stock suspension, but I'm looking at picking up a coilover kit and anything else that will be needed to get my suspension done right.

 

Okay, if your lowering your car with coilovers, once you get to the 1 inch drop range you definately need adjustable alignment parts.

REAR:
Camber - you need a rear adjustable camber arm.

TOE - at bare minimum you need those adjustable "more degree's of float" toe bolts.
These - https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...alignment.html


FRONT:
Camber - Yes you are correct, to adjust camber up front you need front upper control arms,

But, if you lower your car 1.25" -1.5" or so you will end up with -1.7 or so with the factory arms at that drop height, to get to get back to -1.5 degrees then yes you will need upper control arms.

Toe - Toe up front is done at our tie rods - and nothing more is needed to adjust toe up front. camber is the only issue up front.

-J

 

If you get true coilovers, then in the rear you can get TOE ARMS and eliminate the spring bucket since true coilovers done have springs that go into the spring bucket...

much more precise and slip proof over the crappy toe bolts.

like what i pictured above in 2nd picture of post 8...

-J

 

It was replaced out of necessity when I bent the stock one. I also have camber arms and toe bolts and coilovers... My car is all in spec now with a proper alignment soo I dont think there are any negative effects then???

 

Cool this is the info I was looking for. Thank you.

 

Okay ya, then the best thing you can do is set your adjustable traction arms (radius rod) to the stock length and get your adjustment in camber and toe from the other two adjustment points.......

you dont have a good one to measure from, but get one and measure it and get your adjustable one back to its oem length....

 

thanks jason!! what they did was set my camber first then get my toe close with the bar then used the toe bolt soo Im pretty sure its close to stock .