Jason, thank you for this excellent thread, a great deal of info for sure.
The 350z aftermarket parts list is really extensive and for a "non-follower" you will end up dizzy and confused about all this.

In my case, I think my suspension will be needing an overhaul soon. But I am NOT really interested to invest in the hardcore stuff, rather I simply want to replace all bushings and ball joints with something a bit better than OEM. I also don't want to break the bank.

The positive side, as part of our business, we do own a Garage run by 3 mechanics. So labor costs are 0 in my case. What would you recommend for a full bushings and joints basic kit for a DD 350z? If you can please specify the best bang per buck items which are at least 20% better than OEM.

Thanks

 

Has anyone considered this before?
Its the adjustable outer tie rod.
http://www.amsmotorsports.com/shop/i...-rod-ends.html

 

My rear toe arm bracket (Black cricle marked) that connected with the rear camber arm has been slightly bent toward to the front. Have you guys been in this issue before? How could make it be straight back like in the picture? Any help Thanks a lot!

P/S: The pic is just an example the bracket in good condition (no chance to take mine)

<a href="http://s55.beta.photobucket.com/user/went_away/media/RE30_installed_zeal6_arms2_zpsef3ef711.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/went_away/RE30_installed_zeal6_arms2_zpsef3ef711.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo RE30_installed_zeal6_arms2_zpsef3ef711.jpg"/></a>

 

So the piece of the subframe is tweaked? Were you in an accident?

 

It's not an accident. While the car on jack, it was fall down. But I just try to pull it back, it's ok now

 

^ ya thats about all you can do unless you swap out the subframe, and that takes some decent amount of work...if its not tweaked to bad, then bend it back and make up for it in adjusting the camber arm - the "tweak" cycle may make hte point weak, so watch it and also monitor from one alignment to the next alignment and see if the damaged side keeps coming out of spec or different every time...

now its a inspection interval on your car...due to damage...
-J

 

NOTE - daily driver no track:

Front:
Remove translink - replace both inner and outter bushings with Whiteline
Remove compression arm - replace bushing end with spl compression arm bushing.

if oem ball joints are fine, dont replace them unless you rip them.

REAR -
inspect your knuckle to rear shock mount bushing - replace with whiteline if needed, otherwise, if only daily driving, leave your rear knuckle alone.

DIFF:
Replace subframe - diff bushings - i would still recommend solid over ALL, but the whiteline looks promising over the Energy suspension option.

and since you have free garage labor, then do solid rear diff bushing install, ie, the diff subrame solid and the diff ears solid, with SPL, sikky.com, ebay, etc....

that covers bushings...didnt mention arms, or shocks or anything else, bushing wise, your golden for daily with those recommendations...

also, i have how to's on all of those you can review...
-J

 

no images....boo??? from its description it sounds promising, ie very similar to spl in what it says it does....

u have any pics on this unit??
-J

 

hey JaysonZ
ive read up to abt page 11 so far.. all this information seems great!
ive been planning on lowering my car for quite some time now but have been deciding whether to go springs or coilovers. it is my DD and im running on 245-35 9.5 and 275-30 10.5 in the rear. i will be just getting rid on my wheel gaps(1 finger up front,3in the back =/

ive finally decided TRUE STANCE GR+

so just to make sure i have everything that would be needed for it to be done right is there anything im missing or that i dont need?
also are there any of these parts that i can hold off on for sometime but still beable to drop it right without ruining anything?

i want to do things cost friendly but do it right but not anything trackkk crazy its my DD.. Any good parts for everyday usage recommendations? i have somewhat of a little list..what do you think of the parts? is there much of a difference?


1) Rear Toe Links
-Circuit Sports RLD-0350-HC 350Z Rear Toe Arms($175)
-SPL PRO SPL RTA Z33 Titanium Rear Toe Links($299)

2) Front Adjustable Camber Control Arms
-(Kinetix $249)

3) Rear Camber Adjustable Control Arms
-SPC 72050 Rear Camber Arm($95)
-Kinetix Racing 350Z Rear Camber Adjustable Control Arms($139)
-Circuit Sports RCT-0350-HC 350Z Rear Camber Arms V2($149)

 

Thats all you need, but i would start with buying the proper size rear tire. No need to run a front tire on th eback of the car.

 

thanks!
i didnt really know much back when i got the tires along with the wheels =/ (20s SMH)
im looking to change them to 19s or 18s probably next year hopefully?!

anyways second question
out these three parts are they best to have all at the same time or can i go a little while without needing it? im guessing all at the sametime since true coilovers eliminate the spring bucket so ill need the toe arm, rear camber arm also. so maybe hold off on the front camber control arm? or just get it too?

 

being dropped low your best bet is to get the front upper control arm (kinetix as you noted) as well...see, with the stock front upper control arm you will be really negative and just wear away at the inner portion of your tire....

going true, definitely get the toe arm and loose the bucket.....and yes u will
need a camber arm and the spc is more than fine..

-J

 

Exactly what I am looking for. Concerning ball joints, which aftermarket brand do you recommend, just in case...?
Thanks Jason.

 

Need some help guys. I have recently lowered my Z and been to 3 places (Firestone, tire kingdom, and Nissan) trying to get an alignment. All the shops say its to low to get on the rack. Even tried the dps600 alignment machine at Nissan which is used to align the gtr and it didn't work.

I live in West Palm Beach and wouldn't mind driving a bit. Please help

 

^bring a couple of boards maybe?

Quick one: if I changed only the front camber angles, will it affect the car's overall alignment? (ie: front rear toe/camber as well?) Someone who works in an alignment centre told me this...

 

Nix and black in orlando can do it. They have a pit. Kind of far though.

 

Delete

 

Question to Jason,
I am having weird left to right pulling in my rear of the car when I am at the high speeds or when I am doing a long turn on the exit off the parkway. I have coilovers and camber arms/toe bolts installed, my alignment on a back in specs, front -2.0 on both sides. What bushings should I look forward to replace ?

 

that sounds hands down like what i explain when the front translink bushings are out and the translink itself is sliding back and forth on the shaft of the bushing and bolt...

Get a flash light and inspect them like i show in the translink diy thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...translink.html

also, look close, heck back up and look again...i have had people come over swearing that its fine and that they check...but sure enough i look and can see the metal to metal impressions and wear marks on the inside of the kmember from contact.....i then get a pry bar and replicate the movement and they are like "oh when i saw it, it was directly in the middle"....

so ensure that it is or isnt infact those bushings...

from there, check them ALL!! i doubt even with high mileage it to be an others - again - all given that alignment IS INFACT good..

-J

 

Thank you very much for your response, will check them ASAP. Do I have to do an alignment again after I replace bushings? I never would think that front translink arm could cause my rear shifts like that.