I wonder if we could get these in polyurethane, like the same material used in Whiteline / Energy

 

yup, look at the 370z compression arm section of the lower wishbone unit...it connects now to the chassis in a torsion bar styled clamp...

nissan knows they fugged up...longevity wise in the 350z compression arm to chassis connection point.

-J

 

Any specific size? As i live outside the US. I Need to make sure its available at my local auto store or any online store before making the transaction for compression rods.

 

Let me know if you found em mate.

 

Contact SPL, for exact size. Doesn't really matter. It is just a buffer.

 

Clicking noise question...

I have read through a large majority of this post, and with some additional research, still can't specifically narrow down the problem as of yet.

The noise is a click/light pop. The noise comes from the front driver side almost exclusively (I haven't heard it yet coming from the passenger side), will happen at various times while the car is moving, going over speed bumps, turning the wheel, braking, accelerating occasionally.

Took my 06' Z (VQ AT 85k, no suspension mods, slotted and drilled rotors, 25mm spacers in rear) into Firestone to have them do a suspension check to see if they can find the noise/issue. After around an hour of checks and 3 different test drives, they come back to me with, "There's nothing wrong, well, there's nothing wrong yet. We can't find the noise because when we lift the car, we can't hear it. It doesn't happen while turning the wheel while in the air and without the car being 'under load' it may not give you any type of response to the noise we're hearing."

So, they further explained that my struts aren't leaking, my bushings aren't cracked and look pretty good, the suspension in general is tight with no play. The guy at Firestone said it could possibly be your ball joints going out, or possibly a bushing going out that we aren't seeing, but we really don't know.

A co-worker who has a shop for slammed trucks and cars (sheet metal and suspension mainly) hopped in the car with me and we took a short test drive and the click happend at the following times:

while reversing straight back.
on the first turn.
occasionally to a light swerve.
more frequently to a violent jerk/swerve.

He seemed to think it may be a rack and pinion issue, which makes semi-sense but it seems weird it would only come from the left side.

I want to replace my bushings after reading through this post as it sounds like it should help with ride quality/performance. But as of right now, I want to narrow down what the PROBLEM is, as it doesn't feel safe driving around with semi-loud clicks/pops coming from my suspension.

Thoughts??

 

Man I just dont buy it that they said all the bushings are fine.....

it takes someone that has seen it before on a 350z to really know what they are looking for.....

but my money is its the Translink bushing torn,and your translink arm is moving back and forth on the bushing and hitting the forward side of the k-member, then coming back and slappiing on the aft side of the K-member....

IF, IF at the time the firestone guy was inspecting the arm was even close to being in the middle he wouldnt catch it.........and i wouldnt even put them past that....

my reasoning for thinking its the translink to chassis bushing location is from what you explain here:

that translink to chassis location takes all the braking load.

also, that location being torn is consistent with the mileage on the car....ive seen it way too many times on a Z at those mileage numbers...

can you take pictures of your car underside?? take tons, pm me and email them too me...

but regardless the location im describing is this one - shown in post #23:


1. Translink (#13 transverse link) inner bushing – The straight lower control arm:

Notice in this pic that the translink is "slapped" up against the fwd side of the k-member....look at your translink very very closely with a flashlight and see if its not centered and further more look to see if the sides of the translink arent shinny or worn down where its been slapping up against the steel k-member....get it?


LOCATION #4 is the translink to chassis (k-member mount point)





2nd -while your at it replace your compression arm bushing with SPL compression arm bushing....your mileage suggest its time and it can be the culprit as well or in conjunction with..


-J

 

look at acidjake75's post here:

https://my350z.com/forum/8101704-post68.html

Notice his 1st, 2nd and especially his 4th picture showing the metal on metal wear im asking you to inspect for..

-J

 

need anyone's help with whiteline bushing..so i'm in the middle of installing all my whiteline bushings and i get to W62985 (they call it the rear trailing arm -upper front) and i get the bushing installed but the middle tube is way too small. see pics.

I wanted to see if anyone has experience before i call whiteline, thanks. wrong part or do i need to do anything special, no instructions were included and i don't see any on their website.


full pics:



tube floating in bushing



close up compared to oem:

 

25.4x20.2x42 mm is what the tube should be..so what you got there is obviously wrong.

25mm OD of tube/sleeve = ID of the rubber bushing hole.
20mm ID of tube/sleeve
42mm length

just call whiteline ask for a guy named Jan
or just email him - jan@whitelineus.com

let him know whats up and he will ship you the right tubes....maybe you might have to email him the pics, but most likely not...hes legit..

-J

 

/\ thats what i was thinking but didnt have a micrometer to confirm, thanks bro.

 

You should mention the PBM angle kit. BTW, kills front tires like a *****!

 

Took my Z to a more suspension-oriented shop... Confirmed the noise was coming from the Lower Control Arm Bushings, and Front Sway Bar Bushings.

Already ordered the GodSpeed Sway Bar set because I figured I might as well slightly upgrade rather than just replace if possible.

However, what does everyone suggest for the Lower Control Arm issue. Replace the Lower Arm, or just replace the Bushings?

Only left is going out, but I'd like to replace both at the same time to avoid another issue down the road. Got a quote for replacing ONLY the left side Lower Control Arm with Ball Joint for $325 w tax. ($650 for replaced parts on both sides) Same place said they would likely be able to replace the bushings for about $180 w tax per side, if I supply the replacement Bushings. ($130 for Energy Suspension Bushings Set, $360 for labor = $490 Bushings Only) $650 vs. $490. $160 Difference.

The monetary difference isn't that much. What would you do??

 

Hey Jason,

I noticed you didn't really talk about the rear traction rods. I know a lot of people will say they "don't do anything." Yet a lot of companies make adjustable aftermarket options. I have JIC-Magic rear traction rods, and they definitely move the hub some when adjusted, or add/decrease pressure on the hub with adjustments.

What I'm asking is, what is a suggested process for adjusting the traction rods? I assume by lengthening or shortening the rods, it will adjust toe and possible caster a bit to a certain point. Should we be adjusting toe with the toe bolts, or toe rods (whichever we have) first, and then adjust the traction rod? Vice versa? Don't adjust it at all? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated!

 

They adjust caster/bump steer in the rear, toe should not be set with them. To set them you need a race shop that really knows what they are doing.

 

Well damn.

Anyone have suggestions for setting them then? I'm not sure what the stock rear caster spec is, and how it could be improved upon. I know people have these things, so I'm just curious how they have set them.

 

Do you typically set your alignment on your own? If not Id just leave it alone an have the pros do it, as was mentioned above. It sounds like you need help, so its probably best not to mess with it yourself.

 

Hi Jason I have read quite a bit of this thread but I would like some input, I will be doing some suspension mods within the next few months. My car is a DD even in snow, I track only a few times a year if that so my goal is to keep the car somewhat quiet and maintenance free. My car (04 350z coupe) has 80k and a few worn bushings (compression rod and strut mount) and I want to try to replace any/all bushings at the same time.
My suspension of choice is the Nismo S-tune and it lowers about .8 in" as mentioned in this thread. Now this in my list of things I know I want:
1. SPL compression rod bushings
2. SPC rear camber arm and toe bolts
3. Whiteline sub-frame bushings
4. Whiteline Differential bushings
Now this is what I want your input on, all other worn bushings:
Should I go with Nismo, Whiteline, or SPL I do want to try to keep the cost low but if it means spending a little more for a superior product I will, these are the bushings in question:
1. Front inner LCA
2. Front lower strut mount
3. Rear lower shock mount
4. Should I decide to replace the bushings for the spring bucket arm, rear spindle, and traction arms, should I get Nismo or Whiteline?
I am not sure how much noise is added with the Whiteline stuff so that is why I am thinking of the Nismo stuff, I also want to use the Nismo bushings for the front and rear upper A-arms unless you recommend otherwise?
Thank you in advance for any help!

 

there is a thread on that, maybe i can have a mention of it, and link to that thread... i do comment greatly on that kit.

you shouldn't be killing your front tires unless your not matching your angle.....

-J

 

Both, I like to bring it in about once a year , but change alignment a lot thru the year. The front is really easy for me to align, the rear is a pita. I dont like to mess with the rear much