Picture taken from post #3....

notice that the toe degree range is freak'n dammn small....0.00 to 0.08 degrees of toe...



not even a tenth of one degree...

-J

 

If you have a lowered car.....i recommend SPL tie rods......if its a daily driver, then na, no need but this issue your having (if its the tie rod ball joint going out) will be solved with spl since they dont use a ball joint at the knuckle to tie rod connection...

see a lowered car lowers the chassis of the car...hence lowered car!! duh...

well the steering rack is attached to the K-member...the kmember is attached to the chassis....see where im going with this....

SOoooo, in turn the wheels raise up, due to the suspension being adjusted to "lower" the car.....

This then makes an "ANGLE" in relation to the parrallel line of where the steering rack is on the lowered car to the "now raised knuckle"......

What im describing can better be shown here:



-J

 

Ok...So are the kinetix camber arms and toe arms ok for that ? They are selling em' has traction arms package....will they be correct ? Thanks for answering...

 

http://www.kinetixracing.com/nissan350z03-06-3.aspx you do not want the traction arms. Really no need for them unless your doing close to a full race build. Then i would also choose a different brand.

 

Well i'm actually doing a full race build, i'm takin my car on the track, and i already have em' i thought they were okay for adjusting the toe. Even, if you don't like em' are they the ones i need to adjust the toe ? Are they going in the spring bucket place ?

 

thanks jason for more explanations.
i checked under the car just now.
i put the right side wheel on a stacked wooden plates while the other sides were on the ground.
i grabbed the toe arm and tried to rotate and push and pull hard. but it doesnt move to any direction.

i noticed that the bushing on the outer toe arm connecting to the knucle is busted on left side it must have happened recently.. cause i started to notice pretty loud road noise.

 

Review post #715 like mentioned above in post #729......

If what you purchased is what terrasmak linked....then NO..those kinetic "traction arms" are not what go in the place of the (#21 rear lower link -aka spring bucket). The kinetic traction arms are what replace the #23 radius rod.

SO NO! they are not what you are supposed to use to adjust toe...

see...check this...the hole size for rear toe arms is for a 12mm bolt.....you can see in the pics that the kinetic "traction arms" have the larger hole for the #21 radius rod bolt location...i think its 18mm or 20mm..not sure of top of my head..

If you have true coil over rear set up, then you can purchase ACTUAL toe arms to replace the spring bucket to adjust toe properly in the rear.

-J

 

DOING THAT!! is what causes the ball joints to bust....

fixed...

 

It is just a dust boot, not a bushing.

First thing you need to do on your car is set your bump travel (shock length) at a length than is within OEM spec (basically raise the car and have the suspension function within the travel limitations of what Nissan designed it to work). Most of your problems will go away.

 

I was wondering which you would suggest for toe links Battle version or SPL?

 

Both are good, I do favor SPL but.......

 

I have the Battle Version camber and toe links myself. Theyve been good to me so far however my only complaint is adjusting them. The jam nut which keeps the shaft from spinning is a 22mm and most wrenches dont fit between the subframe flanges that the links bolt up to. Its annoying as hell.

If i had the extra $$ i would go SPL because their adjusters are a lot easier to use. Dont get me wrong though, alex's stuff is great and hes local to me so even better. Great guy that gives great service.

 

What dampening setting preserves the shock the longest, soft or hard? I wanted full hard, but if it will reduce the longevity of the shock, I might have to reduce its hardness setting.

 

^ there is probably no true science to that........one would say hard would be more pressure build up/release in the valving, but i would moreso say your worrying for no reason...

-J

 

I already have Kinetix traction rods installed (item #23 everyone refers to). What should I set them to? Measure stock arms and get the same length on the Kinetix?

 

This may be a weird question, but do lowering springs have a shelf life? I found some used ones locally with about 15k on them, but would they fine for another 30k? I am specifically talking about the lowering spring, not how long they will last with stock shocks.

 

They will easily go 100k plus. The biggest enemy of spring is heat, some of the springs on race cars will wear out due to the heat coming off the brakes. Typically you see teams at the Professional level checking springs thru out the season.

 

A lot depends on the quality of the steel used in the springs. I have much more trust in springs made in Japan, Germany, and the USA then springs made anywhere else. Hypercoil Eibach, H&R, Tokico, KW, Whiteline, Tein are all good quality manufacturers.

 

^Okay thanks very much guys! They are Eibach Pro-kits...

 

I have had some conflicting advice and feedback from friends and z owners, this thread has so much information it is overwhelming! Jason i admire your knowledge and it would be highly appreciated if you could chime in

My car is up now and i would like to get everything put in at once and get it aligned to save time.

Info on car:
Suspension is all stock except for "oem style" coilovers
18x10/12 wheels
295/315 tires (soon to be 315/335) tire height 25.5f and 26 rear, fenders are 1 inch over tires all around

I wanna replace all bushings and needed arms to " refresh" and bring alignment to considerable specs.

What combination of bushings would you recommend? Car will be street driven with the occasional drag strip,90% highway pulls and " straight" racing. Would like to keep noise to a minimum, main concern is to eliminate as much wheel hop as possible ( 950~rwhp) i already have sp's diff brace.

if you could also throw some suggestions for control arms and such you think would work in my application i wouldnt complain...