Nismo Hard Rubber Bushings
Does anyone have the nismo hard rubber bushings for the rear or anywhere? Notice a difference, is it worth it? I'd love to go for the rear spl monoball bushings but dont really feel like shelling out 500 on 8 bushings so does anyone have experience with the nismo pieces?
K thx
K thx
Huge difference on a car with a few miles on it, and noticable on a car with lower milage. Basically the stock bushings suck. If you car see's a lot of track, i would get the SPL's.
We are running a few of the NISMO bushings in the front of Adam's car. I don't drive his car all that much to comment on the difference but I'm pretty sure he'll see this thread soon enough and will add any comments he deems necessary.
As far as I know the NISMO bushings are still available.
As far as I know the NISMO bushings are still available.
We are running a few of the NISMO bushings in the front of Adam's car. I don't drive his car all that much to comment on the difference but I'm pretty sure he'll see this thread soon enough and will add any comments he deems necessary.
As far as I know the NISMO bushings are still available.
As far as I know the NISMO bushings are still available.
I didn't find them on your website, but if the rear bushings are available I'll def. pick them up. As far as I know the only other place that stocks them is performance nissan in CA, but UPS shipping kills cross country being that I'm in NJ. Nyways let me know if you have the rear ones, either that or I'll call you guys up tomorrow.
The difference between SPL and whiteline is also night and day. Slowly swapping to full SPL.
Just get the Whiteline ones from Z1!!! From my past experiance with Nismo bushings on my R32 i would have to say Whiteline is better. My Z has a mix of whiteline and SPL bushings.
The difference between SPL and whiteline is also night and day. Slowly swapping to full SPL.
The difference between SPL and whiteline is also night and day. Slowly swapping to full SPL.
As much as I would love to go with the whitelines I'm apprehensive about the long term use of urethane and its lack of friction free articulation vs rubber or solid spherical bushings. Just for that reason alone I'll prob eventually replace my front whiteline bushings with SPL units. Long term ill prob go full SPL as well even though they are hella expensive
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As much as I would love to go with the whitelines I'm apprehensive about the long term use of urethane and its lack of friction free articulation vs rubber or solid spherical bushings. Just for that reason alone I'll prob eventually replace my front whiteline bushings with SPL units. Long term ill prob go full SPL as well even though they are hella expensive 

Front should be like this........
Front:
spl inner at translink - kmember mount
spl compression rod bushing
front upper arms to have solid - ie spl front upper arms
this will yield the front all being able to articulate with out any friction..those are the key pivot points as the spindle points are both ball joints on the two lower arms as well as the upper arm to spindle location.
to save some cash, its acceptable to do whiteline front shock mount bushing, as there isnt a real need for that to be solid.
rear:
going full spl in the rear is nice.....but there are no solids to date for the rear upper control arm..?? so for a main articulation point....having all solids in the rear knuckle leaves room for improvement..
I would run an spl rear knuckle to shock mount as that is the only bushing that does fold over/loose center....
the rear knuckle bushings are small and have very small amounts of rubber..
the only other bushing that should be solid in rear would be the radius rod forward end to eliminate give in that bigger rubber bushing...
if your rear camber and toe arms are not solid's, then whats the point?
ie like spl rear camber arm has a rod end at the subframe lug and either a spl toe arm or spl pro midlink - both with rod ends at the subframe lug..........
all solid pivot points then, but still leaving the factory rear upper arm as oem rubber then the difference is minimal in articulation....improved yes im sure if ALL is done......but a lot for a little.......
your better off spending money in the rear on solid diff bushings and solid subframe to unibody bushings...
-J
Front:
spl inner at translink - kmember mount
spl compression rod bushing
front upper arms to have solid - ie spl front upper arms
this will yield the front all being able to articulate with out any friction..those are the key pivot points as the spindle points are both ball joints on the two lower arms as well as the upper arm to spindle location.
to save some cash, its acceptable to do whiteline front shock mount bushing, as there isnt a real need for that to be solid.
rear:
going full spl in the rear is nice.....but there are no solids to date for the rear upper control arm..?? so for a main articulation point....having all solids in the rear knuckle leaves room for improvement..
I would run an spl rear knuckle to shock mount as that is the only bushing that does fold over/loose center....
the rear knuckle bushings are small and have very small amounts of rubber..
the only other bushing that should be solid in rear would be the radius rod forward end to eliminate give in that bigger rubber bushing...
if your rear camber and toe arms are not solid's, then whats the point?
ie like spl rear camber arm has a rod end at the subframe lug and either a spl toe arm or spl pro midlink - both with rod ends at the subframe lug..........
all solid pivot points then, but still leaving the factory rear upper arm as oem rubber then the difference is minimal in articulation....improved yes im sure if ALL is done......but a lot for a little.......
your better off spending money in the rear on solid diff bushings and solid subframe to unibody bushings...
-J
So Jason??? Want to whip up some Delrin rear upper control arm bushings? I already have whitelines on mine (the move nice and smooth) but solid would be nice. Also they are really really thin rubber.
Sometimes bushings just drive me insane. I always have to go back and see what bushings I have replaced haha and with what brand since I mix and match between Whiteline and SPL.
Yeah Jason I know you can whip up a rear upper control arm bushings. I bet it is on your to do list for this year too
~Robert
Yeah Jason I know you can whip up a rear upper control arm bushings. I bet it is on your to do list for this year too
~Robert
^ lol...ya whiteline is the only one that makes rear uppers.....the part that saves whiteline bushings is that they have the separate yellow zinc steel sleeve....keeping the bushing from crushing.......so they are definately an improvement at higher articulating points like the rear upper control arm, etc.....but at the spindle points, the oem bushings are fine unless those are the last things you do.......
ya Ive considered making them......machine shop time is what kills.......im a very busy person and would love to make some but just cant see me working on that for a while...
I still have my hydro ebrake bracket in the works along with a bunch of other things...
-J
ya Ive considered making them......machine shop time is what kills.......im a very busy person and would love to make some but just cant see me working on that for a while...
I still have my hydro ebrake bracket in the works along with a bunch of other things...
-J
For a street car the Whiteline or NISMO bushings are great. The SPLs I would suggest for a more track oriented vehicle just as I would any bushing made of Delrin (only for the fact of how much frequent lubrication is needed to keep a Delrin bushing quiet). The SPLs can be used on a street vehicle but they would be beyond overkill and more than likely apt to become noisy after some time.
Hydlar Z. I make them all the time for various customer cars. Just made the rear leaf spring shackles/sliders for the Rhoades Camaro project. What are the dimensions?
Bushings not so much. A very worn compression bushing might. The sloppiness and looseness happen so gradual that it would be hard for you to notice over time.
The thing with the compression bushing is that they don't wear out easily. But once they start to wear to a condition that you can feel the sloppiness, they start to wear at a highly accelerated rate. Bumpy roads, hard cornering and braking cause major stress on the compression bushings. In extreme cases, a very worn compression bushing can cause front end vibration and brake shimmy.
If you have a very slammed car, the suspension gemometry changes. This causes the bushings to operate at a binding angle. This is where you want to have SPL spherical bushings. The bushings can rotate and pivot smoothly without deflection like rubber or urethanes.
In my opinion, spherical bushings actually improve ride quality very slightly by allowing the suspension components to rotate freely throughout their movements. It also allows the shock absorbers and springs to do most of the shock absorbing work. However, road noise and vibration are the primary byproducts of spherical bearing bushings.
Unfortunately it's hard to make a bushing that has the rotating abilities of spherical bushings, while still absorb vibrations like rubber. I have seen prototypes of bushings that utilize spherical bearings wrapped by a thin layer of rubber. However that proved difficult to produce.
The thing with the compression bushing is that they don't wear out easily. But once they start to wear to a condition that you can feel the sloppiness, they start to wear at a highly accelerated rate. Bumpy roads, hard cornering and braking cause major stress on the compression bushings. In extreme cases, a very worn compression bushing can cause front end vibration and brake shimmy.
If you have a very slammed car, the suspension gemometry changes. This causes the bushings to operate at a binding angle. This is where you want to have SPL spherical bushings. The bushings can rotate and pivot smoothly without deflection like rubber or urethanes.
In my opinion, spherical bushings actually improve ride quality very slightly by allowing the suspension components to rotate freely throughout their movements. It also allows the shock absorbers and springs to do most of the shock absorbing work. However, road noise and vibration are the primary byproducts of spherical bearing bushings.
Unfortunately it's hard to make a bushing that has the rotating abilities of spherical bushings, while still absorb vibrations like rubber. I have seen prototypes of bushings that utilize spherical bearings wrapped by a thin layer of rubber. However that proved difficult to produce.
I'm getting busy with installing a bunch of rear bushings. So far the list of things being installed/in progress:
Nismo rear upper A-arm bushings (2/side)
Nismo camber arm bushing at knuckle (1/side)
I also already have battleversion camber arms which are solid at the subframe
Nismo radius rod bushing at knuckle (1/side)
Nismo spring bucket bushing at the subframe (1/side)
Nismo shock absorber bushing (1/side) (These sit at the top of the shock and not at the knuckle which I didn't realize, but whateves installed anyway)
SPL shock absorber spherical bushing at the knuckle
SPL spring bucket sperical bushing at the knuckle
Nismo doesn't provide these two to my surprise so I ordered them from Kuah today. They are the exact same size bushing and should get here by the end of the week...I'll take pics prior to install.
All in all I'll have just about every rear bushing replaced with a mix of Nismo and SPL
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Tonyz_2004_350z
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